Deep Dish V35

I agree with above. all the money you spend on the 250gt will struggle to make it as good as a standard 350gt I would estimate ive spent $4000 on bolt on upgrades plus trans, and i barely keep up with a 350gt. For around $5000 you could source a wrecked Stagea and transplant EVERYTHING mechanical and electrical yourself... this is probably the most reliable upgrade to make a 250gt proper fast. or save your $5k, sell the 250gt, and buy a 350gt.... or an XR6 turbo

Sunday blue 34gtr black wheels and bonnet, henley roundabout 4pm, acknowledged silver 35gtr (MR35?) Rundle street 9pm, acknowledged quite a few others doing the rundle cruise too..

i see it every day now that i know its there hahaha bad location, i must say...

youd be better off grabbing 10 bags of premix quickset concrete... at $3 a bag.... pour at midnight, ready by the morning

did the same to mine almost 2 years ago. works fine. hardest bit was the new body->door loom

gutter/driveway is the first thing i check before i even look at a house.... for the gutter, you could dynabolt a length of 3inch pipe into the recess.... then weld the nuts on so nobody can steal it. for the hump... no idea. if it was paved you couldve lifted them and levelled the dirt underneath... for the dip at the bottom, best bet would be to screw together a ramp from lengthways wood and a sheet of marine ply on top... or maybe sleepers with wedge ends... even the alloy ramps would work if you chocked up the centre.. my parents built some houses in the 80's with similar fail driveways.... deep gutter, footpath that angled up, then steep decline driveway to the level garage. the first visitor had a jaguar xjs that got wedged on the hump with all four wheels hanging. funny as.

doesnt take much to get the extra degree of rear camber.... adjustment of factory offset bushes, worn bushes...

4 cents plus your 2 cents and thats the kinda answer i like

the spring and shock rate is stiffer so there should be less travel but yes youll be closer to the ground...

the switch on the door catch is now constantly grounded. when the door is closed it should open the circuit. so the trick is to find out which switch isnt unearthing.

ive heard that standard length is 45mm so 5mm extra is nowhere near enough for me. but then... some people only measure the thread length and dont include the spline i need about 15mm more than standard...

i can only say : in theory that is correct. i have not physically measured a 350z... the only other difference i can think of is the body mounting points. every part is designed to work at certain angles on a particular car, and a 350z is not a v35. each model may have body mount differences to encourage different suspension geometry... they can dial in different rates by changing mounting points. even moving the tower top closer to the centre of the car changes things such as spring rates... you cant just throw together good suspension, it involves hundreds of calculations and variables. and changing just one point can affect many other things. even widening your wheel track affects the suspension rate marginally considering that all mechanical parts except shocks and springs are identical, you would have to measure the difference between the wheel mounting faces, the tower tops, the arm's body mounting points (width and height) to see if there are any that dont match. its seriously complex.

does anyone happen to have a front hub lying around? i need to find out the overall length of a standard v35 wheel stud so i can order some longer ones.

the other thing is: even though the suspension parts are the same, the bodies are not. the obvious difference is the height of the strut tower, but then the body mounting points for the suspension arms could be slightly different too...

edited previous post

the main difference is the height of the top tower mount. the 350z body has a lower profile, so they made the tower mount lower, which required shorter suspension. this is difficult to explain.... on the front wheels, the camber changes because the hub follows geometry based around its "king pin inclination", which is the position of the upper and lower pivot points of the hub. the top pivot point is always positioned further into the car. as a result, the upper arm is usually shorter. the difference in length between the upper and lower arm means that both have a different rotational radius which creates a slight amount of camber as the arms compress upwards. The other factor is the upper and lower arm angle. these arms are never designed to be parallel, so each arm is in a different stage of its rotational length.... if the arms were equal length and parallel, the wheel would always have the same camber. this is no good for cornering. the difference between the front and rear suspension is that the front has 2 vertical pivot points, where as the rear has only one. with one pivot point, the rear's camber increases dramatically. with 2 pivot points on the front, the suspension stays more square the arms are designed to be a certain angle at standard height, the correct angle of the arm on both cars has a different distance to the top tower mount, hence the longer strut/spring in the v35 its kinda hard to describe without drawing pictures

must just be the angle of the upper and lower arms, lowered v35 vs standard height 350z

the 350z springs and shocks are shorter than v35 units, you are lowering the v35 by fitting the 350z items. when you lower the V35 the rear camber increases much more than the front just by design

rear is -3.5* naturally. front is about -1.5* front look almost uncambered in comparison, if i bought camber arms for the front to make it -3.5* all round, i'd need to space my front wheels out 15mm to correct the guard flushness if i went another inch lower, the rears will be -4.5* due to IRS, front will stay about the same

back in the VK VL days, thats how the passenger got out...

camber visual, 350z non touring shocks and springs on 35 sedan with standard arms rear front

before and after vids of shift kit 1st to 2nd if yours sounds as bad as the first vid, it is probably due for proper inspection. My trans died within a couple months of that, something came loose, broke a circlip and destroyed the internals before http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/sc850/V35/twin%20exhaust/98637495.mp4 after http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v716/sc850/V35/8980733D-538C-41CB-A315-6A43232EA04E-3902-00000330F4263D63.mp4

I think what the OP is trying to say is that when he bumps the selector across to tiptronic mode, it shows a 3 on the dash display. This is normal. But this is not a true manual mode. What this means is that the car will try to be in 3rd gear as much as it can, but never go into 4th. It will take off in 2nd or even 1st if needed but once its in 3rd it will hold it there unless youre driving too slow. If you knock it back to 2nd, the car will try to stay in 2nd as much as possible (unless it absolutely needs to be in first) but never go into 3rd or 4th. this is why it might feel sluggish - you have chosen a default maximum gear. Tiptronic in these cars is not a sport mode, its more of a towing mode. I often switch across to tiptronic when coming down a hill so that it holds 3rd gear ... in this mode it doesnt disengage the transmission under decelleration. it will use the engine's load to slow the car down and make it harder to creep over the speed limit, saving you from having to ride the brakes. If you want the car to be more responsive, use the power switch and leave it in auto

na the hsv one is different. meant the one that looks more Calais spec...

signage? none. no banners or flags or anything depicting a caryard. plus its a yard between buildings....