D.I.Y. Mik

Good, take your time. The idea with the colour is to spray 5 or 6 coats, let it dry, sand the orange peel off, and then spray one more of colour for the metallic, and then 5 or 6 of clear. Too late, but next time.......

Not for a 35, but car stereo places usually have nice gold plated terminals.

As long as you sanded the black smooth before the clear...... Right? Then one more light coat before clear? Otherwise the orange peel will be too deep to remove without sanding through the clear. Or its going to be lots of sanding, right back to smooth, then spray again. Dont worry about brand for the first cut/polish, "Machine grade cutting compound" works well on acrylic. Because acrylic is softer than 2pack, it will buff differently. You need to take your time. It doesnt buff easily, but it is damaged easily. Remember to not let the pads get hot, with two you can let one cool down and use the other. You can destroy a pad in 2 panels if your not careful. What do the experts on Youtube say about sanding black? i thought it was 2000. or was that before finish coat? i cant remember. Anyway good on you for painting it. Most people are afraid to have a go. Ps: wet sanding is best.

Well if you are going to DIY, get the manual and have a look. You can find it around here somewhere. You better do a full inspection and service on the brakes, like the manual says to do, and make sure EVERYTHING is good. Its not hard or expensive, and its worthwhile, because brakes are very important.

I just did this...... First ill say Youtube for expert sanding and buffing tips and techniques. And the paint shop where the paint is from for good advice for buffing that particular paint. Lots of work. There are no shortcuts. 2 weeks for a good cure with acrylic. An orbital will strip off the paint, use a D/A if your experienced or do it by hand. Only sanding will get rid of the orange peel. Go easy on the buffing pads, the first buff takes a lot of work to get rid of the sanding marks, which flogs and destroys pads. Get two pads for the coarse compound. "Machine grade cutting compund" worked well, far better than the Menzerna fg500. LISTEN to the experts on Youtube and follow their advice, like be careful on edges etc. Good light to see how its going, and you wont have to go back to fix sht. My biggest mistake, and wasted heaps of time. And after all that, mine is still a piece of sht, it just looks nice. Thats why i have the polished turd pic.

Yeah, its the bushes i didnt change that is the problem. I dont know if ill ever bother, unless i get the chassis straightened, or another shell thats straight. If i do that, then i will strip it and re-build everything.

Haha! thanks, i spose it looks good in the photos. But i wish i had a metal drop saw to make nice straight cuts, and my welding is not real good. Also, straight cuts means its easier to weld nice, cos theres no gaps. Maybe alloy would be good for some people, as it would be much lighter, and do the job of holding things together.

Yeah, bring it over and we can make a plan. Ring me to make sure im home, im taking David to the new Boundless park today.

Nice, your not going to miss anything. I guess thats why my car still feels a bit sht, because i just put my suspension bits on as i got them.

I have done my 32 gtst. Not a 33 but, might give you some ideas: Fitting it into the GTR style front bar and on the bench: Test fit and final fit, with chassis extension brackets: Intercooler brackets on top, and pipes only just clear at the bottom: The road scraper is the best, it protects the front bar from bottoming out, and its strong enough to support the front of the car: Its heavy, so its not racecar stuff. Its for the street. If you do a search you might find a link to another forum, i think a silvia forum, with some real racecar front ends.

Welded up the road scraper today. It had a split weld, and i added a plate on the bottom to make it stronger, and add some more meat to scrape off. This is where it goes: The crack and, the plate: Best mod i ever did, it protects the front bar from scrapes and such. With the heavy duty reo above, it makes the front very solid. Stealth bull bars.

Yes, us Belconians will say yes, Bob Jane is good. They may brush some sloppy tyre dressing on, which they do too much. Then it sprays up the side of your car. That is their only fault i know of. I just ask for no tyre dressing.

The sweets section is pretty full on, and it is nice to have a 2 month supply of toilet paper, if you have the storage space. There are some good things like the terry towels and microfibre cloth in the auto section. Good for detailing, theres always a clean rag handy. But for me, not having to go shopping as often is the best part.

And over here you pay $10,000 for a shtbox rusty Camaro.

Dont be fooled, many of their prices are not any cheaper. A lot of their brand food is sht. But bulk buying makes life easier.

Rust. Time for a paint job, cos you will have to cut it out and weld a new piece in there. You can cut a bit off a wreck or have it made by a panel beater. Youtube will teach you how to do it. Lots of good tutorials there.

I need buffing pads that dont sht themselves after 10 minutes. Are the Lake Country pads velcro like the Menzerna ones? Better than the Menzerna for strong cutting power...... and turd polishing: Good for buffing sanding marks out, like after painting and sanding the orange peel out. And..... A silicone squegee for drying after a wash, i dont have to wring out my chamois once when drying.

Black wow. For exterior trims and rubber. The pre wow gets rid of wax and stuff, annoying that the chunky bits block the spray bottle and you have to open the lid to use it. The Black wow is very good, instructions say "use one sesame seed size drop" thats a tiny amount, but it goes a long way. Amazing. Pre wow: 6/10 it works ok but the bottle sux. Black wow: 9/10 its real good and a tiny bit does heaps.

Pulsar is looking good. Fixed my rubbing park brake today. Interesting set up with the drum and disc as one.

Very appropriate.

Went for a drive, my car is fun to drive now. Saw a bunch of guys on minibikes cruising down Belconnen way. I noticed they were all very nice looking bikes, ( original Honda's ) and the riders had good riding gear they obviously use for their big bikes. The cop in the paddy wagon didnt notice or know about real legit minibikes, because as soon as he saw them he put the siren on and went after them. They would all be registered etc, these things are a rarity and im very surprised to see such a large group. Awesome little things, it easy to see why they have cult status:

Went out to the cotter and Brindabella rd the other day, nice drive. I wonder if roads are bumpier than they used to be or if its just me. Because i find going fast is not good at all, but 20 years ago i could go WAY faster and not feel like im about to be thrown off the road. And i dont think its my car as ive had far worse shtboxes going faster than the Skyline. Ps..... dropped it off. I forgot which one, but the blonde told me.

Insurance and all the legal stuff will be the hard bit. If you can do that, the rest is easy. And a name or title to suit... Japanese..... um, passion?, no thats not it. Anyway, bikes would be cool too. I know of some real fanatics for their brand. Very good idea. im in.

Yes, its doing nothing, but gathering dust and rust. Cant find my camera cord to show you, but it is the one you gave me. I wasnt using it, or planning to, so i dont need a replacement. Ill drop it off, good excuse for a drive.

Os posting? Your desperate to get rid of it. Reluctant sale? The price is too high. Good luck. My guess is you wont sell it before you get back.