ahhbee

Followed a white stag briefly on south rd, rego SLO-034, stance from the rear looked perfect

18 x 9.5 +15, must say it looks pretty damn tough in person even if the rears are a little mexican

Boso style, but it doesnt look good

yea ill be there about 7pm

thats ridiculously lucky, good to hear it was sorted though

spotted shane's wife driving the 34 down king william road about an hour ago, such a tough looking car

yes but the point is (to the best of my knowledge atleast) none of those charges carry a jail sentence, only big fines there's nothing to stop him stealing another one tomorrow.

the argument with doing that was always that nissan design it for a side throttle body and had flow characteristics to the cyclinders as such. moving the throttle body to the front is mean to lean out the rear cylinders, now ive never had a good look at the shape inside the top half of the plenum but it wouldn't surprise me if the top half of the runners are specifically shaped based upon the side throttle body. in which case moving it to the front is like loading a gun for russian roulette, never know if or when it'll go bang. im not saying that it may not have worked for your mate, simply that its not ideal and if for some reason your desperate to go ffp you are better off using one that was designed as a ffp front the start.

cool, i probably should have asked as well is it a genuine front bar or an east bear one?

just double check that you've re-clipped in the afm plug. sound like it could be running in limp mode

but im guessing in just cars mind the coilovers did not affect the value of the car at all. ie they wouldnt have paid you more because the were on. its a little disheartening to know that if someone crashes into me and im not at fault they would still argue over "illegal" mods that had nothing to do with the accident, mind you new suspension from nissan would probably be more coilovers.

looks tough. are they the standard gtt front guards?

good choice, suspension is not something you want to go wrong. hopefully its nothing major

i think in my case it ran down the engine side of the plastic shield between the engine and gearbox, but ive side-stepped it, and generally driven it hard with no ill effects so far, though in your case if your sure that its leaked from the spigot then it should in theory run behind the flywheel and not the clutch plate, though i dont know how much the oil would be whipped around by the flywheel. depends whether you want to risk ruining a clutch plate or spending a few hours pulling the box back off.

just have a quick check that the cam cover half moon seals arent leaking down the back of the engine. i had a similar drama when i did my clutch, new rear main seal everything spotless. a week later found oil on the bottom of the bell housing and convinced myself it had come from the rear main seal, luckily i had a good look before i pulled the box back off and it turned out to be oil that had run all the way down the back side of the engine from a leaky half moon seal. $15 for new seals and a quick degrease and never saw another drop of oil.

yea get it up on jack stands and have a look for anything that may be dragging or loose. id check wheel bearings, the swaybar mounts etc just anything that would cause a vibration if loose. if your not sure on this then take it to a suspension place and ask them to have a look

shouldnt have gone past 18 x 9.5 +20 anything more than that requires a decent stretch or camber or flare, takes a lot of work to make them fit

that looks awesome, such a tidy front conversion as well

location?

yea all installs myself, hardest was by far the bushes. $100 press from supercheap auto was all i needed but if i had to do it again i might look at paying someone. coilovers are straightforward, theres plenty of tutorials to follow if your lost, same with swaybars.

GTSBoy is on the money, mine is only a weekender buts gets driven hard. BC BR coilovers Whiteline adjustable swaybars, 24mm F, 22mm R GKTech Pillowball caster arms Superpro rear camber bushes 1.7 degrees camber front, 1.2 rear, 8 degrees castor and thats all ive got so far. in my mind its a good place to start if you are short on funds. this is by no means how i will leave my setup. ie i will do pinapples etc when im not so lazy This has cost $2100ish and im definantly happier with how it rides/handles through the hills. if you plan to do more track days then look at proper adjustable arms. And of course the best tyres you can afford on the brakes front the calipers are pretty decent, rda slotted rotors, better pads and braided lines will give a good improvement.

need the metal bov return pipe/cam cover breather return pipe, either r33 or r34 will do.

if you could post back with how it goes id appreciate it, im gunna need a gearbox "freshen up" soon and they were one that came to mind

looks like a bosch, i cant remember how big my fuel pump looked but if you really think its oversized compared to others it could be that someone shoved an 044 in there

ive been looking at one of the uras lips for my gtt of recent, just wondering does it smooth back in in front of the wheels or stay flared out. cheers