533 RYC

Agreed Jez. The loop WILL read correctly, once the ECU knows it's in timing adjust mode. RPM drops as the ECU disables advance as compensation for no vaccuum advance as on older dizzy equipt ECU vehicles (where you have to disconnect & plug the vaccuum line before bridging the plug). Unless this is done, setting timing is a hit n miss exercise. I suppose this subject has been covered extensively already!

The loop is there for factory & dealer use. All computer equipt vehicles with CAS or a dizzy have a procedure to put the ECU in a timing limp mode, only then can ignition timing be properly adjusted. Nissan use consult to tell the ECU to go into timing mode. On most older ECU cars, you simply bridge two terminals out (engine speed very noticibly drops), adjust your timing, pull your bridge out & your done. Im not sure if there is a procedure like this for the consult plug. I haven't found one yet anyway...............

Payment sent.

Why did the fuse blow? Fuses don't blow for no reason. Now the fun begins!

Glad to hear Josh. The little so & so's need their hands broken with a 4lb copper hammer! As everyone else said about checkin it out. Get it up on a hoist, full service, wheel alignment (It sucks that insurers won't cover tyres!), if there is gutter rash as Hugh stated, make sure every rim spins true! Definately up for the trackers. PM sent.

All Sorted, Cheers Adrian!

Hard pressed for an OP6 with no shaft play for $250. Might have to up your budget by $100. Even then, most turbos will have shaft movement (max .004" vertically & .010" axial as a general rule, well, with the big ass turbos I work with!!!). You might get lucky...........

I'm looking for a second cargo net, to stop things sliding round in the back, while my kids still have the benefit of projectile protection. In Sydney would be great! PM me. Cheers.

Spotted a silver Axis at the lights of Station St & Seven Hills Rd about 11am yesterday. Beeps n waves

New turbo arrived for the wagon yesterday......LIKE THE PEN?

Sorry Brendan, was just helping Chris out with his little problem......

Impeller was dark (nearly black - I suspected your fuel smoke was at fault), but hasn't touched the front cover yet. Vertical clearance is still only afew thou. Thats not to say the turbine isn't rubbing & causing the squealing on full throttle!

I dare say your HVAC controller is playing up. Have you checked the resistance in the globes for your buttons? Mine were fried, replaced them 6 months ago ( genuine P/N: 27545-0N002 for the short ones for the button illumination, & 27545 - 8E100 for the three long ones for the LCD illumination).

Think you might have it wrong Alex, my thrusts are worn. Did an inspection on the w/end & my axial play is in the region of 0.020 - 0.030'' by feel!

Didn't even know about this thread! Three red Ferraris (360 & 2 F430's) in Audley Nat Park two weekends ago (I was slicing through on my Ninja) & a red Testarossa on Heatecote Rd.

Oh cool, will have to make a detour on the way to my daughters baptism tomorrow to pick up a copy ( Im sure the missus won't mind! ). Nick gave me a sneak peek at Texi last sunday & I must say James, your wagon appeared quite afew times!!!

Ok cool, thanks. Ecutalk & Nistune are great, Nistune is on the cards in the future, but I still have the multichecker & I want to use it. It gives read outs for speed (180km limiter removed as an option when wiring it in), RPM, AFR, Injector duty, AFM, Timing, Power, Torque, has peak logging for each & alarm for RPM set/shift point & maxed out AFM, injectors & lean AFR's. You can also tell it different wheel sizes, bigger injectors, AFM etc...... Its just a handy thing to have permantly postioned in the car to monitor afew critical signals. My R32 wasn't standard, so it was pretty useful. My Stagea is standard, but I want to get to know how the stock ECU runs so that when it does cop a Nistune I can clearly see the difference & compare them....... Thanks for your help!

In my original post I said I have a A'pexi Multichecker that I want to install in my Stagea, let me word it abit better. The C34 is not listed in the model list in the instruction manual, HOWEVER, the R34 is. Wiring colour helps, but what is really important is the functions of each pin of the ECU. Does the C34 operate EXACTLY the same as the R34? Just so I don't damage anything when wiring it up, I want to know for sure.

Ok, heres the best & EASIEST way to do it WITHOUT getting anything in the cylinder. I work in heavy engineering, & am an engineer. Showed an apprentice this trick yesterday after he f**ked an oil gallery plug hole on an installed crankshaft. (7,042 c.i. V12). Compressed air is required. 1. Bar engine over till intake valves for cylinder are open, exhaust valves closed. 2. Find a suitable vaccuum port on inlet manifold, try to clamp other hoses/passages temporaily. 3. Rig up an air line attachment to the port with an inline valve to regulate supplied air to the cylinder. 4. Remove spark plug. 5. Slowly open valve. You should be able to feel air blowing out of the spark plug hole. 6. Run tap DRY into hole & slowly re-tap thread. All filings will be carried out with the air, so watch your eyes! might take alittle bit depending on how bad the thread is. Using this method has worked EVERYTIME WITHOUT FAIL!!!!!!!!!

Hey everyone, anyone with info? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/topic/404952-r34-vs-c34-s2-ecu-wiring-harness-is-it-different/

Follow the wiring from the motor in the Idle Air Control (IAC) valve on the rear of the inlet manifold & see if it's connected. I have a funny feeling the little red curly thing in the picture is the power wire for it, & it doesn't look connected. It just ends. As for the two female plugs, The brown one could be for the valve for the charcoal canister, which isn't there. The greyish looking plug could have been for the factory boost pressure sensor. Both of these are located in that area on my S2 C34, although the plugs are different shapes, the grey one is boost pressure sensor. Your best bet is to find someone with a stock R34, or even a dealer. Pretend your buying a car, lift the bonnet & have a good look!!!!!!

I guessed that. What I'd really like to know is, do all the terminals at the plug, power/communicate with the same components (so hypethetically if I run my Stagea RWD only, can I plug an R34 GTT Ecu straight in with no problems) & are the wire colours the same for each wire between the two models??

Agreed Dale. I use CRC glass cleaner & white cotton rags. After years in the car industry, I found CRC to be the best! Also, to clean up old glass if CRC doesnt get it all out, Autoglym Glass Polish (available from autobahn). It's the only glass polish I've ever found, & my mum now only uses it on antique stuff she deals in................