BK

Still for sale

I guess that means you'll have a sfi 16.1 harness installed then ?

Come on some one must have a bit of an idea. I'm going out to try my fc pro ecu, see if it will work with my 33.

For sale is 6 x 660cc dark blue Denso GTR injectors. Direct replacement into stock rail and loom plugs. Perfect working order. Just upgraded to the Denso 1000cc items as I was maxing these out at 100%. These are the same injector SARD and power enterprise sell repackaged. Looking for $800 delivered. Apexi power FC PRO unit with Hand controller - very reluctant sale as I know how hard they are to source now. $1600 firm (can deliver with decent tune too) Also have an exedy triple plate clutch + flywheel for GTR that works but could use a rebuild $700 delivered Cheers Ben

Highly doubt the HKS wastegates in the turbo is leaking or else I wouldn't even make 16 -20 psi of boost. If you're referring to the actuators leaking, a leak would make my boost higher as would not be getting the pressure to push open the wastegate. I'm starting to think my solenoid isn't pulsing correctly or the output from the power fc is malfuntioning.

Got a power fc on my R33 GTR with the boost control kit. It has worked excellent for the past 4 years but has now stopped working properly. The car pulls 16 psi on just the hks actuators and pulls 19-20 with the boost control on. Now it is working but it isn't - read on. The self learn value doesn't change anymore when the duty value is changed. It used to change very easily but now won't move from 255. Also the MAP sensor to the power fc seems to be reading low and I don't have as much solenoid noise now either. It used to be a ticking sound that got faster with the boost increase, now it comes and goes. Doesn't matter whether I set the duty % to 60 or 90 the boost will not go over 20 psi on my gauge and is reading on controller screen as around 1.15 bar. This all seemed to start after I blew an intercooler hose off one day. Could the rich mixtures from this damage something related to this ? Followed car wiring for solenoid and is all ok from fuses to ECU harness. Have I damaged the MAP sensor and does it affect boost control ? (thought is was only for displaying boost) Is the solenoid partially faulty ? (Solenoid opens and shuts when 12v applied to wiring and is working up to 20psi) Is my solenoid output on the power fc possibly faulty ? Was going to try another power fc but don't know if the PRO unit I have works properly on an R33. Please help as I don't really want to go to a stand alone boost controller, the less screens the better.

I just recently smashed mine to pieces in the 32. I just replaced it with a new stocker but if it goes again I'm upgrading too. The options for front diff I was looking at was the quaife as mentioned above which is $2099 from Just jap or the OS giken one way which is like $2500 odd. Willall did recommend the ATS front diff as that's what they use in the RH9 car.

Oscar, how the hell did you manage the 11.7 in RWD ? That's pretty good bro. I dunno when I'll be back out now after buying this house. I didn't have any front diff or cv shafts installed anyway. Was going to bring the white car but I had to work. Blue car is still a while off being fully ANDRA legal. After looking at the calendar I'm going to aim for Aug. 16 with both cars. White car just needs a bit more of a break in with second carbon clutch and to sort out boost control issues. As I told you the blue car has got some oil and water leaks to be addressed.

Who's car are we talking about now ? Mr. Keets seems to have a R32 GTR so he would've needed all the same parts I needed for my R32 GTR, which would include a new selector on 3rd/4th. Piggaz your sig says series 3 R33 so you would still probably have your original fork. Your right it shouldn't be stuffed if it was new after 11,000km as my R33 series 1 GTR forks are still OK after 80,000km. Shouldn't be as the 3rd/4th selector should be changed when you go to the late model synchros. Your old selector won't work if you had early sychros. Think about it, how else will the gear stick vibrate if it's only vibrating on one gear ? Has to be selector fork or something wrong with the synchro on that gear. Can't be the bearings or gears or it would be constant. I too have stock 5th in both boxes and OS input shafts. The newly put together box is holding a monster amount of power on the R32 and it doesn't vibrate at all with the different fork. I hate quoting dyno figures as the difference between mainline and dyno dynamics is so far out it's not funny but the R32 is holding onto a GENUINE 502 kw at wheels on a mainline and that ended up being 620 kw on a dynamics. Tuned 7 days ago by Willall.

I've got a similar issue in 3rd with my os box on my R33 gtr. It vibrates only in 3rd but I don't notice it unless you keep your hand on the stick. I've also got a brand new os giken set in my 32 gtr and it doesn't do this at all - totally vibration free in all gears. My old man who's a gun mechanic assembled both os boxes. He is putting it down to the 3rd/4th selector fork being a bit worn on the 3rd side in my 33 os box, making it vibrate when it's trying to hold it in gear. If it were a shafts, it wouldn't vibrate in only one gear. Thinking of going back to a stock box for the 33 anyway as I don't like the ratios of 1st,2nd,3rd on my GT-SS turbos gtr. I think they are way too tall. Seems a good match for my T51 on the 32 though.

-Carbon covers sold and gone ! PLEASE CLOSE THREAD

They do make up their own rules though. I can't find anywhere in the ANDRA book that says you need to secure your oil filter, and that is one of the first things they pick on you about. If you can find it tell me where and I'll stand corrected. Anyway are you going to enter the 1320x event ? If so you'll need a four point harness at SFI 16.1. ANDRA is 11's for 4 point but this meet they are inforcing 11.98 OR 110 MPH. That's you, me, ozzy, fab, craig - all over 110mph. Pretty silly I think. I'll see you guys out there after Finke to stir the CADRA pot !

I will be there with both cars. R32 is now roll caged, has new OS giken R3C triple clutch and new OS giken box with HD input shaft. Trust 6-speed dog box is out to get its yearly inspection. Soon will have new tune with the 1000cc injectors and dual bosch fuel pumps done on the 25th. V-spec will keep its current OS giken box and tune, and will have 2nd new carbon triple as INTUNE totally f*cked it up, hence why my last attempt the car went backwards. 12.4 and 12.9 I was pretty pissed off. I shouldn't have changed away from Glen and MarK at brake and clutch. Mark knows his stuff, he is really knowledgable. I'm paying for it now. They better let me run the R32 as my 10 second passes were at a test and tune meet, so technically they shouldn't have kicked me off until I ran that time at a bracket meeting. Watch CADRA be total wankers if the car does 140mph +, it's going to be a total shitfight. If they change their mind on passing my cage then they can forget me going out to drag race ever again. It seems like it's fine for the imports to race as long as your not beating the main V8 players, if you do, then they get sooky. Really is a bit of a red neck attitude out there and I don't think they take the Japanese cars seriously at all.

-Carbon covers sold pending payment

The correct way is not to raise the rear. Mate there is a connector inside the drivers kick panel, its usually a white one taped to the loom. You disconnect it with the ignition on and it actually activates the attesa pump. You can leave it disconnected and simply switch the ignition on and off while cracking the transfer case actuator bleed nipple (need two people). That is all that's required, same for R33 GTR. R34 also is the same but connector is under dash. This is the correct way to bleed the transfer case actuator (attesa fluid). This is to bleed the attesa fluid which controls your tranfer cases wet multi plate clutch which drives the front shaft. Your transfer case is a whole different lot of oil even though they are both Dexron based fluids. I use Castrol TQ dexron III in attesa and fully synthetic Castrol transmax Z in tranfer case itself.

-Injectors sold and gone (finally!) -Carbon covers still for sale

Hi again. I'm putting injectors and carbon covers back up for sale because of the peanut who won't pay up or respond to messages. What the hell is wrong with some people ? If you want something be prepared to actually pay for it.

Found the launch problem finally. Tranfer's in excellent condition but Front diff is totally rooted. Put a brand new OS giken R3C and the new rebulit OS box thinking this funny noise was box or clutch related. With the screaming external gate and dog box in there I couldn't pick it up, but now everythings quiet with the synchro box and new clutch it was obvious. Pulled the shafts out and front diff cover off, and my old man of 45+ years as a senior mechanic and diesel fitter said he'd never seen a diff that stuffed. He's an absolute genius with these GTRs and done all my internal gearbox assemblies - 2 x OS, 1 x stock, 1 x Trust dog Car is getting D-jetro, 1000cc injectors and 2 x Bosch 044s in 2 weeks so we will see the real figure of this car soon.

-Extreme TSC sold and gone !

-Nismo slave cylinder sold and gone ! -Injectors and carbon covers still pending payment -TCS torque split controller still available

Spot on with the drive setup. This guy has obviously not looked into how an R35 works.

-HKS ETS controller sold and gone ! -Injectors and corbon covers sold still pending payment Nismo pull slave cylinder still available Also up for sale now is another torque split controller with 2WD/4WD switch. Torque split works on all GTR but 2WD switch part should only be activated on R32. $210 express posted anywhere in Australia.

-1600cc injectors sold pending payment Nismo pull slave cylinder still for sale.

-Carbon covers sold pending payment -HKS torque splitter sold pending payment 1600cc injectors and Nismo pull slave cylinder still available

All parts now also added ebay at auction prices.