superspit

Thanx mate, question; Patrol, as in big Nissan 4WD thingy?? are their radios actually the same as a Line (95 onwards)?? woah, learn something new everyday!! ps, do you think the stacker and 'cable' would also be available on these wrecks for that price? Is that why there are more connections on the back of my radio? (for a stacker?) thanks again.

YOU ARE 5UCKING ACE!!!! :wassup: That diagram is too good to be true! Thankyou!!

easy and indisputable..... double the string's centre to one side!!!! :wassup: except for G-strings, more complex geometrical math is required here. :Oops:

Hi Skliner's, looking for some expertise/previous experience here. I'm finally going from the standard radio/cassette double din unit to the same unit but with a front load cd player/cassette/radio. Pictures supplied below of CD unit I want and my current radio. (I must keep the interior of my car stock...just my preference!!) Are they fully compatible as far as plug connections? Simply put, can I just plug and pray? I've had the unit out for some unsuccessful servicing, and from the pics that I've seen from the rear of the cd version head unit, the inputs/outputs on both plugs appear the same (?) I thank you in advance!!

all relative to you right foot, and ofcourse for writing cheques to your mechanic, your right arm.

Hi, consider this.....really neat without going overboard!! Glows a sick blue at night too!! $45.00!! OH YEAH

if it happens to me again, for no good reason, I will be making a formal complaint ....I mean....this should be considered harrassment after so many times. I'm a "high performance driver"...no fines nor am I accident causing. Crickies, I'm 37!!! (and look it!!) and don't even have any schtickers on my car. (but am considering smothering my rear window with 'drive-right' and '0.0' schtickers), oh..and a few police ribbons hanging off the aerial. Maybe they won't pick on me so much then??

my God!! actually, it was him!!!

A BIG thankyou to all these responses, if i was a good looking chick I'd be goin' the gobble onya's.!! (oh heck...even if I was an ugly one!!) This is quickly what happened today......... Went to TruFit exhaust, got the lowest part of my zorst 'tucked-up' about 15-20mm (just to be safe).$25. Went to Pedders and got a suspension safety check done....technician loved my set-up and ticked all the boxes right and hand noted that "this car's suspension has been fitted correctly and is deemed, in 'my' proffessional opinion, to be safe......" ...$14 Went to VRoads, the little 100mm wheel was passed under the car unimpeded, handed over the Pedders report (very well presented for $14!!) to Mr.VRoad. Yellow (bull5hit) sticker removed in a spritely manner (all gummy residue also removed), formal paperwork completed and I'm pulling away in my tight ride, smiling and relieved. Thanks Merlin for your offer of physical help....you're ace. anyways....Up the 'irons...I mean Skliner's!! SSMark.

well....ok then....thanks for the confidence boost, honestly. I will let u know how things 'pan'....and your logic seems inarguable on 'spare parts places'!! Thankyou friend.

Thanks for that...(no doubt I'll be using these numbers in the future!). I suppose I'm really after the initial procedures I must now undertake, and how the RTA handle these things????

Hi Skliner's, happy new year and..............er, anyways.... I'm a tad worried about the 'red tape' I'm about to go through. Corner of Stud and Burwood Hwy get pulled over. Usuall stuff, drivers liscence, breatho...all good. Popped the bonnet...all good. I asked the officer politely what the problem was and he said that he was concerned with how low my zorst was (it's a Fujitsubo 'Power Getter' that I got with the car). it was apparantly 85mm to the ground, where it should be 100mm plus off the ground. Policemen then said that I have coil-over suspension (HKS Hypermax2, again, got with the car) and that this is for 'racing cars' and may not be legal. (He was very friendly but didn't appear to be 100% sure, from what I could tell.) Anyways.....yellow sticker (that fell off in the first 10 minutes, seriously) and paperwork was given to me stating that I must go to RTA and have the clearance checked (which policeman said "should be OK if I got the exhaust tucked up a little" (good advice). The other note was to have my suspension inspected for 'legallity' (???) He ticked the 'MINOR' box and ticked the 'NO ROADWORTY REQUIRED' box aswell on the notice and explained to me that it wasn't necessary for a RWC as the car was the best Skline he had ever seen... (Geee, thanks!!) I got 7 days to do something......or else.....??? Guys.....I'm worried like hell!! The zorst I can fix quite quickly (tuck it up a bit to get the proper clearance), but I can't afford to put the original suspension in. If I have to, I'm affraid that I'll have to lose the car. Am I worrying for nothing.....does Mr policeman have a point about anything other than original suspension on these cars?(I thought all R33 Sklines have 'coil-over'?) What happens at the RTA, procedure wise? Help, I'm melting!!! Thanks in advance again guys. Mark. :Oops:

Hi Cam, (hey, my toyota had one of those!!) Cameron, search for 'boost solenoid', or 'solenoid mod' somewhere in these forums, this is where I got it from. (just double check the wiring that's been incorrectly suggested) Also Cam, if you look below, you'll find my basic mods list. i suppose (in this case only) i am looking for responses from people who have done this modification and therefore have experienced the car with this particular set-up, only. I have a 4 inch catback, shouldn't choke, you'd think? Anyways buddy, do a search, it is interesting, non the less!! Mark. :Bang:

....you put a switch in place, good idea...and I have felt what you described more than a few times. (with modded solenoid)

Hey Z, previous posts posted...... but basically, I've gone from bleeder valves, to plugs, letting more air into the stock IC (buy modifying the plastic flap in the wheel arch, changed timing (up from base), put a schick blue LED in the cigarette lighter.....etc.etc............everything that is called a 'cheap mod' (god bless cheap mods, they're fun, but you do get what you pay for!!). I mention a few different parts here because each one seems to have a contributing factor with something else(?) So, I guess that the advice from fellow Skliner's that I've had since I joined is to spend, properley, get it out of the way...then have some reliable results that are fun all the time.. i will be doing this!! (but for now).....My car is now super consistant, and is ace 'down low',. but still kicks my chest when I squeeze the thing. Up the Irons....eh.......'liners

No! I think you got it earlier!! Thanx.!!

Hey Skliner's, ah wsup!! anyways, it's been 6 months since my last confession, oops, since I've done the 'infamous' black-wire-mod, (boost solenoid always activated), and well, last week I decided that I'd put it back to standard. If any of you have been following my little issues with upping the boost on my fairly standard GTS-t, then you'll understand why I reckon this mod sucks, hey, but that's just me!! Anyways, car seems to go better, and actually surges incredibly well when I hit that 'boost point', just when you need it.... feels 5ukin ace. The car is so much more driveable now on my way to work, but when I need the power I just floor it, count to 2 and bamm! Goes like a cut cat again. (I reckon the car will last a bit longer too!!) I guess I'm just wondering if anyone else has 'returned.' ps.I will get an aftermarket puter later on, (I know you just can't beat that very controlable mod), but until then, I guess the Japs really did design these cars to run very well on the stock BC. Don't get me wrong, I do want more power !! But I've figured that all this stuff I hear about spending money on this and that is probably the only way to make Line go faster, properley and safely!! Give us your input if you've actually done this mod, let me know what you think of it? Thanks Skliner's. Mark.

There are indeed gains to be had running an after market IC., regardless of std boost!!

Hey JC, ther are easier ways my friend. Hey, I like your line, I pass it most days going to/from work!! I also live near the 'station', but am constantly amazed that your beautiful 'Line hasn't been 'clipped' yet!!! (is your line burgandy??) if not, sorry mate!! I drive a white version of yours (with the black wheels), and live just down from you!! (I think). Get the wire from the fuse box,... ie. less wire then less chance of short circuits due to length of wire potentially touching the chassis somewhere in its travels!! (I guess!!) Mark.

well done Ed G, nice figures! (hope u r feeling better now!!) I really believe you'll find a small 'air/vac' leak soon,... I'm learning how much these motors won't tolerate the slightest escape/introduction of air. Aren't your fellow Skliner's just ace?

Motor is smooth, no knocking, idles ok? ROSES! there you go! Do not pour oil down your sparky holes!!! Not a drop! Like mentioned, comp lock can and will (to some degree) occur. Just wait and do what you said you were going to do for now. 'Wet test' (if you feel you really have to) later.???????

well....................alrighty then!!! it will do you no harm asking/telling your mechanic of your issue, (and I understand that it can be an emotional one!!), see what he says about it. (the guy u bought the engine off, or whatever). Do your 'warm test' though, as your fellow Skliner's suggest, first up. I know how you feel, but your baby will be fine!!! (got heaps of life left in the thing!!) Remember Ed G......the test between a truly warm/hot engine and a cold one can be quite dynamic!! That's just the way they work!! ah.......anyways!!! Mark

For R33 GTS-t? ............ Actually, a reduction in boost will occur. The brass restrictor is inside the the hose with the 'red band', before it splits off into the T piece, coming off your upper IC pipe, the one on its way to plenumn. ie: you'll let too much pressure 'hit' the WG actuator, therefore letting boost go!!! (this is from my excercises in this field). If anything, restrict this pipe even further,.... if anything. (still not as good as a bleeder though. Why don't you just drill a tiny hole in the WG pipe, and experiment with other size holes with spare tubing...it's fun. Mines at a rock-solid 11 pissants, with just a hole in WG pipe, size established by trial and error. If you're not silly, no risk. If you are, I know where you can find a new turbo/motor. GTR's are different!!! (I believe, .........I don't own GTR........yet)

your figures are not so bad!!! Didn't find any oil on your plugs?

I see your point. (and I do like your example.) Why would it be neccessary therefore, to have this ECU 'storing' numbers (data) from ignition start to ignition start.. or are these numbers static for reference use only, ie MAP. (for eg). Also, do others notice a slight difference in performance (good or bad), when they've done an ECU reset...(not a proper one, the one where they just disconnect the batt and depress brake pedal, for example?) ECU's (std or aftermarket) do have a form of variable RAM memory (not talking reference ROM here), don't they?...So therefore, would this become the 'adaptive' (changeable) part of the 33 ECU, according to it's inputs etc. eventually affecting it's outputs (ie potentially power output)???? anyways.......... Thanks Iwells and Skliners