nissky

for r32 in 3rd gear 9.5psi for mine stock 12psi for dump pipe, 3inch exhaust and pod

hmmm wierd, just for reference my original rb20det turbo was stamped "16V" my new r34 turbo was stamped "45V1" "45V2" is what the r33 turbos should be

It is a straight fit...i bolted on a r34 turbo myself (not r33) and everything was still a straight fit! It was new so didnt come with any water/oil lines, all the original connections bolted up, i think one of the water lines i loosened one support to allow me a bit more slack but it all lined and bolted on. All i bought was an oil gasket for the oil drain..... 100% without a doubt its a bolt on job for the oil and water lines. The compressor outlet pipe you need the r33/r34 one though. (usually comes with turbo).

why would it pull harder in 3rd than 2nd??? i think when people say 3rd gear is strong for skylines its relative to other cars, not relative to second gear, i.e other cars start slowing in acceleration (non turbos) in 3rd compared to a turbo skyline my car definitely accelerates harder in second than third.....

Technically its not that hard.... There is a drain plug on the bottom of the gearbox, you cant miss it, it in the centre right at the lowest part of the gearbox. The filler plug is half way up the passenger side of the gearbox, just follow up from the drain plug. When you do it clean the metal shavings of the metallic drain plug, and easier if you use a hose into the filler plug to fill. I havent been able to do it yet, i couldnt get the filler plug off (car wasnt high enough of the ground!) And its exactly the same for the diff...

if your using an rb25 turbo on an rb20 engine, where are you getting the wastegate boost signal from? also the rb20 wastegate opens at 2 to 3 psi later then the rb25 one but i still cant see how this would be a problem, unless the current one is faulty and even a slight restriction in the line (open bleed valve) is enough to keep it shut...

- one thing to check with bleed valve turned down to min, it should pass through all pressure from inlet to outlet, you can test it by blowing through it with your mouth if you leave it like this and connect up you should have stock boost pressure, as bleed valve is in pass through..... also, assuming its a stock rb20 turbo, its only a short hose from compressor to actuator, with nothing else to really cause a problem...

also the factory gauge is way slower to respond than the autometer mechanical gauge im using, eg... you cant see boost spikes on the stock gauge i was thinking of wiring up the apexi boost sensor (from avc-r) to the stock gauge, to see if if becomes more reponsive, will have to use some adjustable resistor in series to get the right voltage signal

im in still, thanks

tracking device...nah id rather get insurance hmmm where can i get tracking device stickers haha

link

i bet you $1950 that your not from sydney ;p hmm i need window tinting tooo...good idea jimbo

Just got quote from just cars....$1950 Market value only $14000, excess $1200 effectively, this is for 29 year old, with 60% NCB Famous will match it but not better it ! so screw them all... back to third party only....... My only concern is theft, how do i make my car harder to steal... So far my anti-theft measures are; - car looks stock so doesnt attract too much attention - triple immobiliser - 2nd alarm with another immobiliser Any other suggestions would be appreciated.....

hey your in sydney buy mine! http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...&threadid=25751

i think its expensive, there are plenty for sale on these forums in just as good if not better condition for $4000 less if you really want this one, get them to give you 12months rego, and haggle the price down another grand! - the 2 year warranty, isnt always that great after you read the fine print......mine had excess and max of $1000 for any one thing all you need is the 3month compulsory dealer warranty in my opinion

vaseline! lube it up seriously this is what i used...i had some aheeem handy they slipped right off

yes another great thread here ;p!!! the real question is who would win out of; Ferrari F1 towing a hsv gto anchor VS a Skyline r34 GTR???

no was an optional extra

pm'ed ya

The main difference is the platinum plugs (factory standard) are suppose to last 100,000kms, whereas the copper ones are 10,000kms. (The platinum electrodes dont get eaten away as quick as copper so last longer..) I replaced my platinum plugs at 75,000kms with copper ones and gapped at 0.9mm due to running higher boost, and i havent had any problems at all. That reminds me its probably time to change them... If you dont mind changing more often get the copper ones... i like copper ones because changing more often you can see the state of each cylinder by the plugs condition (too lean, too rich etc) Oh yeah, what gtst said the copper ones are suppose to have slightly stronger spark.

The specs for the pennzoil 10W-30 is closer to nissan recomended, plus oil pressure gauge would read considerably lower with mobil 1!???

more

more

more