GeeDog

That would have to be something else unplugged or broken - ABS sensor maybe??

The long brake line replaces the 3-segment OEM line, and attaches at 1 point to the upright part of the hub using the cable clamp. The OEM line attaches at 2 points (hence the 3 segments). There shouldn't be any sensors, (other than ABS which is completely seperate). There are some pics in the Stoptech brake install manual that show how the lines are routed - different BBK & lines but similar routing: http://stoptech.com/docs/installation-manuals/98-646-1450-02 Note that the braided lines are not part of the Akebono kit - they were bought separately, so the Akebono install docs don't mention them. It took me a couple of goes to get them how I wanted them.

I broke mine last year - went in the local Nissan dealer (after trying every lid in the house & shed & none fitting) and the guy had one sitting on his desk. Apparently they had a new reservoir that was broken, so he took the lid off before sending it back, just the day before. He gave it to me for nothing:) They are the same size as an R33 (and presumably other Nissans).

BBK & bonnet struts now sold

Bump - swaybars still for sale. These are too good to sit in my shed, or to give away. Open to realistic offers.

Bump - radiator sold, thermostat still for sale. Open to offers.

I hope its not just the hose ends holding the oil cooler in position? You think that might be an issue? Actually it's being held at all 4 corners of the cooler, obviously under the bodywork. In the second photo you can just see a bolthead under the rear hose end, which hold the upper/inner corner of the core. The other 3 corners are secured by metal brackets to the car. It isn't going anywhere.

If you're talking about the coax cable it looks like a CB / UHF aerial - is there another end of it in the boot?

Finished installing our oil cooler yesterday. We mounted the cooler in front of the drivers side wheel, with airflow through the blinker/fog light. We plan to remove the blinker / fog lights for track work, and cut out the bumper plastic behind them for more airflow. Instead of running the hoses under or through the chassis rail, we drilled 2 30mm holes through the sheet metal ether side of the washer reservoir, and mounted the cooler with the inlet & outlet nipples sticking up through these holes. The hoses run from the sandwich plate, behind the look & radiator hose, to the nipples - one between the reservoir & headlight, the other between the reservoir & fuse box. The photos show more details - the yellow plastic caps show where the nipples are. The reservoir had to be moved slightly, and one new bolt hole drilled to clear the hoses.

I have a brand new set of front EBC Redstuff DP31636C pads for this car for sale - now $50 plus shipping. These are one of the best high-end street pads available, and cost well over double that when I bought them. PM for more details. Info on these pads - http://ebcbrakes.com/product/redstuff-brake-pads/

No idea, car was written off before I had a chance to fit the new thermostat. It was only a problem on extreme days (ie 42 / 44 degrees) and driving up a long steep hill to get home, and once while stuck in heavy traffic.

No, $350 is too low.

They weigh a bit over 500 gms, so need a AP medium satchel. A prepaid satchel is $13.40, or an express satchel is $14.80.

Adelaide

A pair of hydraulic bonnet struts for a 350GT (actually they are 350Z ones but were on my 350GT) - $50 plus postage. They are about 6 months old, and include all parts needed to install. Installation takes a couple of minutes per side - they are a direct bolt-in & can be removed at any time. These lift & support the bonnet without the need for the stick to support it.

Radiator & Thermostat still for sale - offers?

Bumping these up - great handling upgrade at the right price.....

Finished fitting our brackets today, thought I'd share a few things: We started on the caliper grinding with Dremel type grinding stones & a file - this was an absolute waste of time. Ended up going to Bunnings and buying a carbide burr with a 6mm shaft, and used it in an air powered die grinder. This was fantastic, until it started to clog with aluminium as we were almost finished the first caliper. Cleaned it out a few times with a wire wheel on a grinder, but it got more & more clogged with melted ali & stopped cutting at all. I then remembered that I had some cutting burrs among the router bits I inherited from my dad, and found a more open cutter than the Bunnings one. We ground out the second caliper with this, also using some lubricant - this more open cutter didn't clog at all & made quick work of the caliper. The cutting edges on the Bunnings tool were just too fine. We ground the calipers to give about 1mm of clearance to the rotor, then took about 1.2mm off the diameter of the rotors in a lathe (helps when the neighbor is a retired fitter & turner). Bolted it all on today and have heaps of clearance between rotor & caliper, and pad doesn't look like it overlaps the rotor. My thoughts on removing material from the calipers - when in use the force acting in the area where the bolt hole was ground through is outwards - ie the 2 halves of the caliper are being forced away from each other. It wouldn't matter how much material was in the are of the bolt hole - there would be no affect on the strength in the direction of force. I was happy to remove a small amount of material, and I am confident that it will have no affect on the caliper. Haven't driven it yet - the car is still on stands for other work. I was surprised how out of round the rotors were - they are brand new & putting them on the lathe really made it obvious. I will post back if we have any issues when we get it on the track again.

^^^^ I've got a legal 235/40R18 you can have for nothing, but not a lot of life left in it.

Wanting to buy an oil filter adaptor off an RB25DET or RB20DET (prefer RB25) - the whole bracket that bolts to the side of the block, which the oil filter screws on to. With or without the water jacket part. Geoff 0428 841 730

Not sure what a GT8 is - if the bonnet hinges are the same as a 350GT coupe they should fit. The struts attach to one of the hinge bolts on the bonnet, and the other end has a ball-headed bolt that replaces one of the front guard mounting bolts on each side. I can get you the extended strut length if you want to measure it on your car.

Still for sale, but not sure about 300GT - Whiteline's website says they fit: SKYLINE V35 RWD (10/2003-2007) So I would assume they will fit if your 300GT is within those dates.

E-Go to Perth depot is around $18 for both swaybars - packed size is around 100 x 40 x 13 cm, and weight is around 14 kg.

Bump for redstuff brake pads - suit series 1 350GT

Bump