GeeDog

Autobahn and Supercheap sell them, but maybe not quite the same range.

My R33 GTST is similar but not quite the same format - 6U900ECR33xxxxxx where the x's are a 6 digit serial no. Not sure how much help this is but it's the best I've got....

Seriously - gutters, on the inner sidewall? Only if you park on the footpath, with the outer wheel in the gutter.

The Z32 seems good value. You can get Nistune to install the daughterboard for you, as previously posted they are in Adelaide. Have a read of http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products-type2.php - $300 installed If one of those actuators are still for sale I would grab it - as posted (GTSBoy?) they can be hard to locate as everyone with an RB25Det wants one. There are cheaper tune options in Adelaide. We went to Graham West & it cost $350 - we got 215RWKW with the mods listed in my original post, although we did have a base tune for similar mods already. Very happy with the attention to detail & the results.

RB20 (R32?) Actuator - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/salisbury-north/engine-engine-parts-transmission/r32-r33-rb20-rb25-parts/1053295328 Not mine, no idea who it is, don't know if it is the right one, 2 minutes searching.... Edit - another one - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/kidman-park/other-parts-accessories/nissan-parts-r32-s13-s15-skyline-silvia-180sx/1049901329 And a Z32 ECU - http://www.gumtree.com.au/s-ad/para-hills/other-parts-accessories/parts-300zx-z32-tt-manual-2-seater-ecu-black-carpet-interior-/1054098498

If it's going to be a daily & you you don't want huge power I would stick with a Nistune. Others will tell you different, but a Nistune will do the job for you, as it does for me. Yes - 32 wastegate actuater is stock on an R32, and is a direct replacement on an RB25Det. If you want more than 10psi you can leave the current boost solenoid installed, either in stock wiring or hot-wired to be always on higher boost. Note I haven't tried this - our solenoid has been removed.

In a nutshell (and I'm assuming it's a GTST, not a GTR, but it's worth you mentioning these things): Forget about the boost controller at this stage Do a full service if you don't know the status - oil, oil filter, air filter, coolant, plugs, check wiring Think about a timing belt replacement if you don't know how old it is If you do the timing belt, also replace the water pump, crank & cam seals, tensioner & idler pulleys Test for boost leaks New fuel pump for safety - if it's still got the original one it's around 20 years old 3" Turbo back exhaust, including high-flow cat Z32 (300ZX) or R32 ECU plus a Nistune daughter board - this will allow a tuner to modify the factory tune R32 Wastegate actuator (10 psi vs 5psi stock) Get it tuned by someone who knows what they are doing - 210+ RWKW and a different car to drive

Or defamation....

I only know because I've just fitted a harness, and was considering re-threading the rear tunnel side seat mount bolt to take a harness eye-bolt for the waist strap. Didn't do it because the adjuster would have been too low.

Is the clutch rod (between the pedal & the master cylinder) adjustable in your car - I know it is in an R33 GTST but no idea on an R32. If it is, adjust the length to set the takeup point where you want it - shorten the rod will make it grip at a lower pedal position.

Drill and tap to a slightly larger size - the seatbelt bolts are 7/16 UNF thread, which is around 11mm. The bolts are readily available - every car uses this size for each seatbelt mount so the wreckers have heaps. They are just over 1mm larger in diameter, so very little metal to remove. Get seatbelt bolts off a Skyline & the head size is the same as the original seat mounting bolts - 14mm.

Looks like the cap isn't sealing than. Have you got a way to measure both the cap height & the radiator neck internal height - the cap should be a bit bigger. A vernier caliper would be the go.

Have an R33 GTST S2 - same issue - most of the blue has gone off the VIN plate. No idea why - it was like that when we bought it.

You can check if the cap is sealing when cold by sqeezing the top radiator hose. Make sure the radiator is full of coolant first - if the cap isn't sealing, when you squeeze the hose you will see coolant going into the overflow bottle - this shouldn't happen until the pressure builds to the cap's rating, which it won't reach by sqeezing the hose.

The angles have to line up in all planes or it won't go in. A couple of things we did that helped: 1. Suspend a length of timber or steel on top of jackstands inside the car (we had the passengers seat out, so 1 stand sat where the seat normally is & the other was in the driver's footwell), over the shifter hole, then use a cam-buckle strap over the timber, through the shifter hole, and around the gearbox. Use a trolley jack under the front of the gearbox. Now you can adjust the angle of the gearbox in relation to the engine. To get the angle right look closely at the gap between gearbox & motor all the way around - should be the same. Use a small block of wood or similar to confirm. 2. Put the gearbox in gear (4th) - now you can rotate the rear spline slightly as you push it towards the engine, thus also rotating the input shaft to "line up" the spline. We found it much easier with 3 people - one adjusting the strap from inside the car, the other 2 underneath manipulating the gearbox.

I had one done last week on a G6E Turbo by Tyrepower at Holden Hill - just a few doors down. They have good equipment, the guy knew his stuff, and he was very thorough - an "old school" tech. A wheel alignment (including a thorough bush/suspension inspection) was $65, plus $5 for some shims. I was very impressed with the service & happy with the price, so will use them again & happily recommend them. YMMV

No pun intended?

Might be worth mentioning where you are...

That's the series 1 voice, my pic is the series 2 person.

I found a photo of her:

Bump for thermostat & gasket $50 brand new Nissan goodness

Sold

I had a series 1 with a female Japanese voice, but the only time I remember hearing her was when I was low on petrol. I believe she was telling me to fill up. My car was a premium with sat-nav & Bose.

Are you in any way mechanically minded? Replacing pads & rotors is quite a simple job, and you can buy them for a lot less than $550. I think I paid $140 for a set of slotted RDA rotors and $200 or so for EBC redstuff pads. Plain rotors & more street oriented pads would be cheaper again.

You can add a Nistune daughterboard to your stock ECU, which makes it a tunable ECU http://www.nistune.com/equipment-products-type2.php. If your mechanic is trying to tune a stock ECU, find another mechanic. Where do you live?