GeeDog

I have a pair of cat delete pipes that were on my 350GT for a short time. They are stainless steel, and include the gaskets & bolts needed to fit them (some bolts came with the pipes, the others came from my parts bin, so not all the same head sizes). I bought these to get a bit more grunt for hillclimb, but we've now bought a track car & I won't be using the 350GT, so I've swapped back to the OEM cats. These pipes have a bit of a raspy tone and are louder than the stock cats. One has a very small bit of plastic melted onto it - I ran over a plastic bag & it melted on to my exhaust. I have scraped most of it off. They bolt on easily - took about an hour to fit, and they fit well. They have bungs for the O2 sensors, and didn't generate any codes in my car. Looking for $120, and can ship via E-Go for around $10

^^ Been looking at the same kit. It's $820 Au with shipping, but still seems to be a good price.

They don't want factory ones - they want Aus Standards ones. Our R33 has 3 of them that appear to have been fitted during compliance. 2 are bolted to steel brackets that are on top of the speakers, the 3rd one is in the middle of the shelf & screws into a nut that is pop-riveted into the metal under the parcel shelf. The 2 over the speakers have bolts going through the speaker grills. Any compliance workshop should be able to sell you the fittings or install them for you.

Links don't work (unless you give us your Gumtree login details:)

If you don't have the experience or confidence to remove the wheels, please don't try working on your brakes - take it to a mechanic......

What brand / model are the injectors?

We've put ebay alloy rads in 4 cars now, and they are all great. Put a 50mm dual row in the R33 the other week as the plastic top hose nipple was cracking in the original - was a tight fit but no problems. I think it was around $150 shipped. Had to mod the intake snorkel slightly to clear the radiator, but other than that it bolted straight in.

Not an expert but we just put new BC ER's into an R33 GTST, and went out to play at Collingrove hillclimb on Saturday. Were very impressed with them - money well spent (so far anyway).

You are trying to sell it in a V series specific forum section - most of us already have one:)

Set of "Sienna Roadbattler" (Yokohama?) alloys - made in Japan - 17x7.5 +40 Fronts, 17x8 +45 Rears, with Zetum Sport tyres - 235/45ZR17. Rims were on an R33 GTST, and could use a tidy-up. 2 tyres are just legal, the other 2 have around 40% left. Includes centres & tools to remove centres - $250 https://www.dropbox.com/s/1gfqa4v9pj3yv70/2013-11-09%2012.00.14a.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/rhwb0ksl9kl7cqx/2013-11-09%2012.00.29a.jpg Eibach lowering springs out of R33 GTST - Rears marked as 51,96 6340102, fronts I need to find the numbers (they are not here...). With these springs fitted ride height was around 330mm front & 340mm rear - measured centre of wheel to wheel arch - $120 https://www.dropbox.com/s/363xdghtlu4wfjj/2013-11-17%2013.21.46.jpg US Audio Power USA200ZM 600W amp, mounted on board with fuse & wiring, & Kenwood 12" Sub in box - $150 https://www.dropbox.com/s/s87lb2oxi6um6eo/2013-11-09%2012.04.13a.jpg https://www.dropbox.com/s/qjaw20wbeu2xij3/2013-11-09%2011.57.34a.jpg

"what rating do i need? 91W - 98W 100w ect?" The 91W - 98W etc are load and speed ratings. You have to fit tyres that meet or exceed the load ratings on the tyre placard on your car - usually stuck to the B pillar somewhere (drivers side on my car - open the door to see it). My V35 lists 91 for the front tyres & 96 for the rears. It's not legal to fit tyres with a lower load rating. The text in the regs say: "The replacement tyres must have a load capacity not less than the lowest load rating specified on the tyre placard." The W is a speed rating - there was a time when you also had to meet or exceed this rating, but this was changed many years ago. Now in SA (and I think most other states) you only have to have "S" rated tyres. the actual text of the regulation is: "The speed rating of the tyres fitted to a passenger vehicle must be at least 180 km/h ('S') when the tyre placard requires a higher speed rating than 'S', for all other vehicles a speed rating of at least 120 km/h applies ('L')" For more info have a read of: http://www.sa.gov.au/subject/Transport,+travel+and+motoring/Motoring/Vehicles+and+registration/Vehicle+standards+and+modifications/Wheels+and+tyres

Bridgestone tyres at Golden Grove also sell Achilles

Kit was $290 shipped. Ended up buying a pump & tensioner locally - ebay seller agreed (on the phone) to re-imburse when I send his bits back. If he doesn't I'll lodge a Paypal complaint - prick sent me a cheap pump when he advertised a GMB, and it didn't fit anyway, as well as sending 2 idlers & no tensioner.

Bought a timing belt kit with waterpump from ebay the other day. The kit was described as "Gates racing timing belt kit + GMB waterpump". We paid a bit extra for this kit because of the GMB pump. It arrived yesterday, and was all in a single box that was badged as a Gates waterpump (no mention of the rest of the kit) for a Commodore. The waterpump has no brand name or manufacture country on it, and was in an unmarked plastic bag in the box, along with the other bits.We stripped the front of the engine to fit. Replaced all seals, then went to fit the water pump - it doesn't fit. The pump is bolted in by a variety of bolts - several 14mm & 12mm headed bolts and one 10mm headed bolt. The original pump has a slotted hole for the 10mm head bolt - obviously to suit several different blocks. The photo on the ebay ad clearly shows this slotted hole as well, but the pump supplied has a round hole (ie the bolt can only go in one place) which (of course) doesn't line up with the hole in the block. This is the new pump - https://www.dropbox.com/s/ngfp86msag8emsr/2013-11-14%2019.01.26.jpg the hole is the second from the left at the top of the pump. The f'wits also sent 2 idler bearings instead of an idler & a tensioner. Anyone know if a GMB waterpump has any markings cast into it - ie brand name, made in Japan etc - or what the GMP part number is? I don't think this is a GMB pump, and is a chinese replica.

There should be an adjuster at the bottom - between the 2 brake shoes. When you turn the toothed wheel, it screws the ends in or out (ie gets longer or shorter) depending on which way you turn it. This pushes the shoes in or out.

Actually looking to swap - I have an R33 GTST with lowered front springs, and want to swap for standard height springs (or at least higher ones). I have no idea what springs they are, but front ride height is 330mm. Need more travel for hillclimb - 330 is ok for street but not for competition. Springs are out of car - need something quickly or will just buy coilovers. Will also consider buying a cheap pair of stock springs.

Looking for an R34 stock SMIC. Prefer a cheapie - will go FMIC next year but need to stay SMIC for the moment, to meet class regs at an event. Will be going into an R33 GTST.

^^ FJ510 - pm sent re caliper brackets

Pics of FMIC? Maybe a stupid question but is the timing belt new?

To close this story (and start a new one), we bought an S2 R33 GTST today - pretty much un-molested. Needs a few things done but the price was right. Will get into it this weekend & see what we need to do now, then get it on the track. Booked for the hillclimb at SAU nats, so that may be the first event - would be a good shakedown for it. Thanks to all (ok most) for the comments & suggestions. I still don't like rotaries.....

where is this taking place?? Friday at Mallala (race track) Saturday at Collingrove Hillclimb (near Angaston in the Barossa) Saturday night at Mawson Lakes Sunday at Glenelg Full details are at http://www.saunationals.com/event_info_entry.php

Perhaps it should be renamed "Talk me out of boosting my V35 & converting to manual"

Are they Akenbono brakes? If so I can get you the EBC Yellowstuff pad part numbers, and also Stoptech rotor part numbers - I have the boxes for both in my shed. Let me know if you want them.

Given your intended aims, is there any point in having a car that remains registered and compliance with your State laws? Who said anything about remaining in compliance with state laws? If it is registered in my name initially, I can let it expire, but then get a permit (up to 3 days) at any time for getting to & from events & pre-event test drives - ie we replace steering bits & brake parts before an event, for $56 I can get a 3 day permit to drive to get a wheel alignment, then test drive to bed in brakes etc, then drive to & from the event. In SA we can also put it on seasonal registration, then can renew for 3 months at a time whenever we want. As long as it looks fairly stock externally, the chances of getting defected are low. So no intention of keeping it registered, and certainly not compliant, but this gives us more options.

Looks alright, but more than I want to spend now. The other problem is it's interstate, so to keep it rego'd here means a trip to Regency for an ID check. Anything looks non-stock then they send you to the pits. I'd be much happier to get a locally registered car.