Ant

Hall effect switch = a switch activated by a magnet, basically a chip version of a reed switch. Not sure how the engine management in a Calibra works, but it could be something along the lines of the crank angle sensor (CAS) in a Skyline - the hall effect switch might detect rotation of the crank so that it know when to fire the injectors, spark plugs etc. If this isn't giving the correct signal the engine don't go! Absolutely no idea where you'd find it though in a Calibra!

Bah, just when I thought I'd got that one figured out.... I'll fall back to my previous theory then - red badge = sold thru Nissan red stage dealer, blue = blue stage dealer. From what a friend in Japan has told me red stage = performance stuff and blue stage = family/smaller car stuff.

Obvious one - tacho assy is different due to no boost gauge...... Yup, red/white badges for Type S NA's, blue/white for non-type S. Front brakes have 2 pot calipers, rear is single pot for NA, I think the master cylinder is different as well due to the different pot volume. R33 GTS4 uses the same brake setup as the GTS/GTS25.

Just don't leave the end of it near anything warm, otherwise the air delivered into the cabin will come out at a wierd temperature.......

CA18 was R32 (GXi model) only, thankfully! I think a whale would be a bit too much for the poor little 1.8L to cope with.... R33 GTS (ie no '25') has the SOHC RB20E for reasons best known to Nissan.

I think what they are worried about are a dodgy battery or similar connection in the phone which may spark, and, more likely, a phone with vibrate mode turned on. The vibration is made by a tiny little brushed DC electric motor, which have a tendancy to make tiny little sparks on the brushes as it turns..... Also liquid petrol is highly unlikely to ignite, the bit that goes up with a bang is petrol vapours, which are invisible. So should you stray into an area in the station with your lit cigarette in vapours have built up........ Though you are right, this is what engineers call a 'double fault' situation - 2 things have to go wrong in order for bad things to happen.

Ok, finally, a definitive answer. Top (larger) box has part number 28505-16U15 on it, FAST lists this as 'CONTROL ASSY - HICAS' Bottom (smaller) box has part number 47850-15U00 on it, FAST lists this as 'MODULE ASSY - ANTI-SKID' So top one is HICAS controller, lower one is ABS controller. Note that on the boxes in your car the 2nd section of the part number may be different, I think that section of the number is the revision of the part. Now where's that prize......

Found this page the other day, how to fix R33 dash squeeks: http://southernskylines.com/index.php?page...33_dash_squeeks I sense an easter weekend project in that.....

Have a read of this: http://southernskylines.com/index.php?page=aac_1 Unstable cold idle/stalling when cold is definitely a symptom of a dirty AAC/IAC valve!

See my post above - specs for each model code listed on this site: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/stagea/

Lots of discussion on Consult stuff here: http://forum.ztechz.net/ And some Aussies who are making the interface: http://www.plmsdevelopments.com/consult_if.htm They also sell one of the programs that you can use to view the data, which was written by a SAU member: http://home.iprimus.com.au/tkolo/datascan.htm

Make that 3 types, another option on series 1 was dual fog/driving lamps in the lower front 'type M' bar, in the area that is normally covered by black plastic mesh. Only ever seen 1 like this though.

R33 GTS25 series 1 type S (gawd, what a mouthful....) here (has HICAS), have both those boxes under the parcel shelf. Been meaning to get round to working out what the lower box is, if I remember I'll look it up in FAST, that should tell me what it is.

Do you know if they modify the tuner, or install a seperate tuner? Step 2) would suggest a seperate tuner is installed? Do their mods allow the TV to be controlled from the factory head unit, or is a seperate remote required?

As oRiCLe says you need a band expander, they usually come in shifts of 10, 14 and 20mhz. Unfortunately this is not as easy as sorting out the radio. You are facing 2 problems - Japanese TV stations are all on UHF, and I believe Aussie (like NZ) has a mix of VHF and UHF TV stations meaning you wouldn't be able to tune in some of them. And then you hit the more fundamental problem of NTSC vs PAL, different encoding in the TV signal. I've heard that some TV units can be converted internally (as they have chipsets that work with either and are preselected for one or the other), and some are impossible to convert as they are fixed to NTSC. Easiest solution is to see if the TV unit has a video in connector, and then buy an external PAL TV tuner which has an NTSC output. Unfortunately this means you can't control the TV tuner from the headunit, usually the external tuners have a remote of some type to do this.

More Stagea specs and model codes than you can shake a stick at here: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/stagea/

Chassis code on the auction sheet says NM35, which as it is a M35 model, that would indicate that it is 4wd. Judging by this: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/s...stagea/2001_10/ .... the M35 RS4 came with the VQ25DD and DET engines, I can't see a 250Z RS4 model listed there, might be a 250t RS4 with the DET engine. Nice car in any case!

.... or you could just link to the original thread in the Japan section: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...ead.php?t=66899 That is DCD's car.

Ok, see the attached pics. One shows the rear of the cluster, there are 2 sizes of bulbs, I've taken one of the smaller sized ones out and it is sitting in the foreground. It is a wedge type fitting that unscrews from the rear of the cluster. Other pic shows the front side of one of the bulbs, note the blue cover to give a white tinge to the light from the bulbs.

Here ya go - R33 GTS25 type S: Gearbox - FS5W71C Diff - RC43

Ok, R33 GTS has the RB20E - SOHC head, good for 100kw or so. R33 GTS25 (note the '25') has the RB25DE, 147kw in type S form. If you look at the VIN no on the firewall the GTS is HR33... whereas the GTS25 (and 25T) is ER33 (or ECR33 for HICAS equipped models). There are a huge number of GTS's in NZ, but apparently not so many in Aussie from what I've heard. As for overheating - not something I've heard of, I would guess that the 2.0L has to work harder as it is dragging round a whale designed for a 2.5L engine. However the 2.0L engine is quite a bit smaller than the 2.5, so the engine bay looks pretty empty and therefore cooling is better. Gearboxes etc - the gearbox and diff type numbers are also listed on the firewall plate. I believe that the GTS and GTS25's are different in this respect, but not certain, if I remember I'll check what mine has and post it up.

Gauges are back lit, if you remove the cluster (2 plugs on the back) and look down from the front between the gauges you'll see the bulbs that light it up. They are 12V filament type bulbs, not LED's, so to fit LED's you'll need an LED + dropping resistor for each one. Can't remember how the bulbs are clipped in, will take a look at the spare cluster I've got at home tonight if I remember!

S14 and pre 97 R33 wheels are the same, also the JDM S15 multi-spoke (> 5 spokes) wheels (which I think came on non-turbo S15's) look the same as the wheels you find on some (non-turbo?) 97 - 98 R33's.

Oops, dunno where I got 1470kg from, how about 1330kg stock: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/21695/

R33 GTS25 - 147kw (200hp)/1470kg (stock) - what's the VL RB30E engine rated at stock? IMHO the GTS25 is not a bad buy if you want a simple cruiser without the hassles of a turbo. Just avoid the 2L GTS model, though I don't think there are many of those in Aussie.