Ant

Probably more work than it is worth - not only is the loom different but the S1 engine has a seperate amplifier pack (mounted on the rear of the cam cover - you'll see 4 empty mounting points on yours) which you'll also need. The coil driving circuit in the ECU may also be different - not sure on that one - if so then you'd need a S1 ECU as well.

Virtually all JDM Nissan's use the same head unit connectors, the only difference is that the connectors used changed sometime in 1994 (see here for pics: http://www.installdr.com/Harnesses/Nissan-Wiring.pdf). So if the new head unit is from a post 1994 Nissan (looks like it is!) then you won't have a problem.

Yep, GXi is the lowest spec R32, came standard with the CA18. There are a few of them running round in NZ. Must be a heap of empty space under the bonnet!

Yep, parking aid, so that spacially challenged people known where the LF corner of the car is.... Once had a Corona loan car, had a switch on the dash labelled 'pole'. Much head scratching went on about the function of this switch, until we spotted the antenna/stick thing on the LF corner going up and down....

C34 is the platform designation for the fairly ugly Nissan Laurel, from which the Stagea is derived. The R33 is also based on the same floor pan apparently, part of Nissan's mid-90's cost cutting. If you have a look at the C34 Laurel, you'll see where the WGNC34 Stagea styling came from: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/l.../laurel/1996_5/

Could be a dry/dodgy solder joint in the ECU, my sister's old Bluebird had this problem, Nissan took ages to diagnose the fault (as it was intermittant like yours), in the end they gave the ECU to someone who tidied up the joints, problem solved. Different behaviour in different temperatures is indicative of ECU problems, as components expand and contract slightly the problem will show itself. As per everyones elses comments check for wiring shorts, especially if you've had any electrical gear installed recently (alarm, stereo etc). Your comment about the fact that electrics stay on may or may not rule out a short - if the short is brief the ECU may reset without you noticing the effect of the short on anything else. Best plan of attack if you suspect an ECU fault it to go to an auto sparky who has experience with Skylines and who hopefully has a spare ECU. Swap yours out and see if the problem goes away.

Why Autocad? There are plenty of other freeware CAD programs out there? In any case it would be bloody brilliant if you can get these drawn up, would be a huge help to the Skyline community! I saw the boot looms you've posted, they look good. The comments of others here are just trying to discourage piracy, which cannot be endorsed on a site like this. So don't take them to heart, rest assured that most of us greatly appreciate your efforts!

Skyline recalls: http://dogandlemon.com/recall/model.php?ma...N&model=SKYLINE A couple there that look like they could be related to your problem.

Apparently they got caught out on OBD2 for the R34 GTR (and R33's later than 96 I think), the R34 doesn't have an OBD2 connector on it which I believe is required to pass whatever warrant of fitness tests they have over there (or was it emmissions?). As for why Nissan Aussie/NZ don't sell the V35 - not enough of a market for it. It is too small (and too expensive) to compete with the Commodore/Falcons etc, and Nissan does not have enough of a profile in the luxury market for it to compete with the BMW 3 series, Lexus IS etc which are its 'natural enemies'.

R33 GTS25 type S has 147kw/200PS, I believe due to a variable capacity muffler system (which the non-type S doesn't have), also possibly due to different ignition arrangement (ignitors on coils rather than in block unit on cam cover). R34 also came in 20GT form with the RB20DE, 114kw.

Me shakes stick at Rezz's huge spec list..... :headspin:

Nope, no V35's are sold new by either Nissan Australia or Nissan NZ, apparently Nissan NZ looked at selling them but the numbers didn't add up. In NZ we get grey market imported V35's (2nd hand used imports), mostly the 250GT Sedan (as those are most common in Japan) but I've seen a few 300 and 350GT sedans around recently, and the odd coupe (which only comes in 350GT form). These are badged as Nissan's as they were sold new in Japan. Also seen a couple of M35 wagons on the road here. As for grey market V35's in Aussie, I believe that they are still going thru the compliance process - can anyone clarify that?

Are you referring to R32, 33 or R34 GTS4's?

Yep, pretty sure, though I heard rumours that late 97 - 98 (ie end of R33 production) models got 5 stud hubs on some random cars - probably a parts run-out thing. I've got an HPI article which compared the R32 and R33 GTS4's and the brake types are mentioned, will dig that up and check.

Have a look here: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/skyline/ More specs, model and engine codes than you can shake a stick at. V35 data is down the bottom.

Speed cut is at 180k as the ECU sees it - the speedo is usually a bit inaccurate (my '33 reads a bit low) which is why it looks like you are going faster than 180 when you hit the limiter. Have checked the ECU speed readout (using Consult data) on mine against a GPS and it is pretty accurate, the gauge is obviously out a wee bit.

GTS4's have the same setup as the non-turbo GTS25 in terms of wheels/brakes - 4 stud hubs and 2 pot front, single pot rear brakes. Obviously the body is different (flared gaurds on GTR), also the R33 GTS4 has no torque split gauge in the interior.

I get 9 - 10L / 100k in my GTS25 manual, closer to 10 if I spend a lot of time on the motorway, closer to 9 if spending a lot of time driving round town. As per other comments check: - 02 sensor - AFM - Plugs - IACV/AAC valve (do a search if you don't know what this is). - If you can go to a Nissan dealer and get it checked out with the Consult diagnostics gizmo. Is it auto or manual? If auto is the 'box changing ok? If manual is the clutch slipping at all?

Stalling/other problems when cold could be the Idle Air Control Valve (IACV) also known as the Auxillary Air Control (AAC) valve, do a search on either of those and you'll find heaps of posts about the problems they can cause and how to fix them. Also have a look at this site which has info on how to fix them: http://www.gt-skyline.net/

How long does it make the noise for? Mine goes 'clank - woosh' when the AC is engaged - the clank is the AC clutch pulling in and the woosh I assume is the compressor winding up. The AC compressor runs off a belt from the main pulley at the front of the engine, and is then engaged by an electric clutch at the front of the compressor. So it could be that the belt is slightly loose on yours, causing the noise. Belt is easy to find, have you checked the tension in it?

Re the noise, does it make that noise only when the compressor starts or all the time when it is running? Re button on console - console is fairly easy to take out and examine, do a search on dash dis-assembly if you aren't sure on how to get it out. Once you've got the unit out you can take a close look at the button and see if it looks repairable.

Voice guidance is the key people..... I've heard of some systems that can be configured to switch the screen off when the car is going above ~5km/h, but the unit still gives you the voice commands - eg 'turn.... left.... in.... 100... meters.....' or my personal favourite: 'Make.... a.... legal... u-turn...' when you manage to confuse it! The manufacturers who supply Sat nav as an option probably have an exception to the ADR's for allowing the Nav screen to be on.

Yep, that's the difference on a DE. Look at the rear of the cam cover, if S1 there will be a black box containing the ignitors for the coils. If S2 there will be no box, instead all you'll see is the 4 mounting studs for the box. What year is your car? If 93 - 94 then almost certainly S1 engine, if 95 then could be either, if 96+ then almost certainly S2.

I think they're all GPS based these days, though I believe Japan has DGPS (Differential GPS) where additional ground based transmitters transmit a correction signal to further improve the accuracy of the GPS location calculated by the receiver. Some cars have a secondary inertial system to provide location info when the GPS signal isn't available. But IG has hit the nail on the head regarding the problem, which is map compatibility. Each manufacturer uses a different format, and I'm not aware of any mainstream Japanese manufacturer and/or OEM NAV system supplier who has maps available for Aussie. Therefore aftermarket for Aussie is the only way to go, something like this: http://www.navman.com/go/aus/index.html I reckon there is a business opportunity in Aussie and NZ for someone who can reverse-engineer the various Japanese map systems and produce local maps for them, I've seen heaps of imports recently which have nav systems that are essentially expensive paperweights!

Just stuck my head under the back of my R33 GTS25 - hello, sway bar. Looked under the back of of a colleagues R33 GTS - no sway bar. And confirmed that I was looking at the right thing by looking under another colleagues R33 GTS25T - sway bar there as standard by the sounds of things (can you tell we have a lot of R33 owners @ work?!). My car seems to be one of the elusive 'Type S' GTS25's though, it has a few goodies I haven't seen on other GTS25's - eg variable capacity muffler.