Ant

As I said in my post - busted solenoid actuator... This is what you need, first part on the list since it looks like you have a Coupe (I think...): http://www.trademotion.com/partlocator/ind...amp;catalogid=1 Riverside Infiniti was one of the better places to source V35 parts though I gather the guy who was really helpful has left so maybe find another dealership. They all seem to use the same parts catalog system so shouldn't be too hard to locate this part again. In any case make sure you check that it is the correct part before ordering! Or just source it thru Nissan...

There's a little solenoid which drives a plastic lock that engages with a catch in the fuel door to lock it. Locks when the rest of the car is locked. Look just inside the door and on the left you'll see the mechanism. Apparently it is quite common for the solenoid to die - the one in mine was dead. From what I've heard fairly easy to replace if you can source a replacement solenoid. Those who were having trouble with the door popping out - could be due the catch that engages with the lock on the fuel door being mis-aligned. Check if the catch on the door is bent or twisted in any way. Chris - the winding up of windows when the car is locked - are you saying this can be programmed by the dealer on any V35? Or is it dependent on a sensor being there as well?

The guide for the US G35 Metra dash kit (p/n 99-7604) is pretty good: http://retailer.installationexcellence.com...;productid=9438 Click the 'Product Instructions' link, or direct link here: http://documents.victorytechnologies.com//...uct/99-7604.pdf That's the guide I followed to install a 2 din unit in my (non-Bose) 250GT... Fair amount of dash-disassembly required, took me about 2 hours! Hardest part is getting the clock/ac display surround on the upper dash out...

Another vote for the Aerotwins here - had them for about 2 months and they are brilliant! Had some similar style flat blades before that, can't recall the manufacturer but they weren't any good, starting skipping/smearing after about 3 months.

Looks like GPS diagnostic data to me - HDOP/GDOP are data values related to predicted GPS error, I'm guessing that the next 3 lines are the signal strengths of the satellites currently in view. The next lot of data looks to be related to an inertial gyro - guess the V35 sat nav must use this as a backup/x-check for the gps data. This quite common for built-in systems, the gyro data means you don't lose your position in a long tunnel and improves accuracy in a city with lots of tall building which can confuse the GPS receiver.

Gibbo - sounds very interesting, will contact you for more details about that system, sounds like exactly what I'm looking for! Chris - now why didn't I think of that! Thanks for the heads up re the wire colours, will assume nothing and trace from the lights. Guess that wire terminates at the BCM?

Hi all, been lurking here since I bought a 2002 V35 250GT Sedan a while ago. It's the stripper model too, the GTm with non-power seats. But got it at a very good price which leaves $$'s for added goodies... Since it doesn't have the factory nav I'm adding a 2 din unit which has a reverse camera input. Need to find a reverse signal input for it - I gather that in the US G35s it is the purple wire in a cluster of wires in the (LHD) drivers kick panel. Does anyone know where it is on the JDM version - same/similar place perhaps? Also any suggestions for reverse cameras and mounting locations - from another post Chris Rogers suggested the Mongoose CCD170B, but it's kinda pricey over here?!

This is what I used when fixing the same thing in my R33, DSE cat no P8140: http://www.dse.com.au/cgi-bin/dse.storefro...duct/View/P8140

Hi all, between myself (M35 info) and some of the SDU people (WGC34 info) the Stagea entry in Wikipedia has been updated with better info than it had (previously it was totally, totally wrong!) Anyway, please have a look and correct if needed! http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nissan_Stagea

Yup, the whole point of HICAS is to stop the rear end from breaking traction and allow ordinary mortals to corner faster. Hence why drifters and those that like to hang the tail out hate the system. Tyre wear - shouldn't make any difference, if anything it would reduce wear. The angles shown on that diagram are exaggerated, in reality the system only changes the rear wheel angle by < 1.5 degree. Quite safe to go from OP lock to lock - the reaction time of the system is very fast.

The 4ws system in Skylines is called 'HICAS' - do a search for that and you'll turn up a bazillion threads with the info you need....

OK, was a bit of a mission but I think I found it, 76911-85F00. Attached are the screen grabs from FAST... Best to take the number to Nissan and get them to confirm that it is the right thing!

Grounding the car won't help - 99% of the time you are discharging the static on to the car, not the other way round so grounding it will only make the problem worse.... Blind_elk's solution is the best, grab hold of a bit of metal while putting your foot on the ground as you get out.

You guys aren't looking very hard: http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=17349 Currently the 2nd post from the top in the FAQ section....

I believe (and I could be wrong...) that series 1 R34's (pre 2000) had 2 reverse lights, series 2 ones had 1 reverse and 1 fog light.....

To clear a few things up: - HICAS light only comes on when there is a problem with the HICAS system - Sometimes the light will only come on after a period of time driving as that is when the system detects a fault (eg no speed input) - Tyre size does not affect HICAS (does affect the ATESSA 4WD system though) Start with doing the HICAS diagnostics, that should spit out a fault code telling you what the problem is. Do a search for how to do this.... Also do a general search for HICAS - problems with it have been discussed many, many times before....

Read back further in the thread - there are 2.0L SOHC NA R33's (GTS spec) - 100kw of pure power as well....... The GTS25's are not bad, but the GTS's on the other hand.... There is a valve in the (standard) 2nd exhaust outlet that opens above 4000rpm (not sure on that value - just what I've heard). Essentially frees up the exhaust a bit. Not sure if that accounts for all of the extra 7kw - the ECU mapping may be slightly different as well?

Clutch shouldn't cost you more than $400 - $500, mine went not long after I bought it too, cost about NZD$500 all up. MsG_ChRiS is right, you don't need anything special, just the standard clutch is fine for the NA 2.5.

Unlike other 4WS systems, the HICAS only activates if the car is above ~ 70km/hr and only in response to certain conditions. So it won't activate at all on a hoist, unless in diagnostic mode as GTRGeoff says.

You need one of these: http://east-bear.co.jp/origanal/high-beem.html (translate thru http://babelfish.altavista.com/ if needed) There is a comment on there about the R32, but the translation doesn't make much sense.... AFAIK East Bear are not the only ones doing this kit, perhaps contact one of the Japanese parts importers and ask them? Also do a search, a DIY solution to this has been discussed before.

You may have disturbed the vehicle speed sensor (VSS) wire to the HICAS controller - that is sourced from the dash in a R32. The HICAS controller waits for a certain amount of time (and/or a certain set of conditions) for a VSS input, and then if none is detected the HICAS light comes on and the power steering (which the HICAS controller also controls) defaults to no/minimal assistance. Sounds like this is what you are seeing to me. I thought that the controller throws a fault code saying that the VSS signal isn't present, but as you aren't moving in diagnostics mode then it may not as it has no way of knowing if the input is good or not. Do a search for HICAS vehicle speed sensor, there have been a few threads just recently on this topic. The short version is test the VSS input to the HICAS controller, and if it isn't working, work your way back thru the wiring until you find the problem. If the VSS input is OK, then ignore everything I've said! And in your case I'd definitely check the dash wiring, especially the VSS feed from the dash to the ECU, which I believe branches to the HICAS controller. Also I believe that the HICAS controller has a tacho input as well (used for power steering control), not sure what happens if this is not present but as it is related to dash stuff that could also be a possible source of the problem.

AFAIK 93 - 94 airbag was optional, 95 drivers airbag as standard, 96+ dual airbags standard.

Signal is a square wave pulse train - pulse width proportional to speed (ie PWM).

Here ya go: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/nissan/180sx/1994_1/ Specs for all '94 180SXs From this site: http://english.auto.vl.ru/catalog/

You're not really back at square 1 regarding your options - if you do decide to return home you have valuable life experiences which many others back home don't have. So you instantly have an advantage career wise, regardless of what you decide to do. As a friend of mine who has recently returned from Japan has found out, in the job market the maturity and confidence that comes from living in another country counts a lot more than specific job experience in whatever field you decide to enter next. And disappointment - that comes from pushing that part of your life as far as it will go before boredom with the same old frustrations sets in - definitely a sign that it is time for a change. In any case, best of luck with your choices.