Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys.

Im looking to get into a R32 GTR in the very soon future and rang up Just Cars for insurance the other day.

I am only 19, which I guess means I have a rating of 5? Have no accident history or anything.

Car has rebuilt motor, bigger turbo's, mags and stereo.

Anyway, I dont know if they stuffed something up or what, but I got a quote of $2531 for full comprehensive and an agreed Value of $23k.

To me, that sounds very VERY low, as a mate is paying a little over $3k a year for his R33 gts-t skyline.

Does that sound correct to you guys??

Cheers, Brett :)

Edited by Brett_A
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100023-eh-insurance-sound-right/
Share on other sites

Check what the excess is........because i rang up Just Car a few months back and they quoted me just under 1k premium but the excess was like $1500(ok i was 24 at the time and had a bit of insurance before, and the car is a 96 R33 GTSt) But i then rang Shannons and they were $1200 Premium and only $600 excess and that includes my wheels, Pfc, Cooler + the rest of my mods.

Basically check what the excess is because lets hope you don't crash or it gets stolen.....BUT if it does happen you could be up for a bit, Otherwise if excess is reasonable go for it straight up!

Hrmm.. Excess is $1790 lol..

That could be why it is so cheap?

Unfortunaltye I dont think I will be having a GTR within 30 days, because I have to sell my VLT first :)

Want to save some more money first before I get into a GTR too.

However, if you know someone who wants to swap a R32 GTR for a VLT with a cash adjustment, tell them to come see me! lol..

My premium is just over 2k on a 17k R33, that was fairly stock. As of now it has fmic, turbo back exhaust up from cat back, and in 4 weeks will have turbo, ecu etc etc......

They are going to flip haha. But yeah I checked as well, and a R32 GTR is cheaper to insure than a R33 Gtst. Can't see why though. If I had of known this I would have considered a GTR instead.

Thats roughly what i was quoted, it largely depends on location.

I know that Broady, Richmond and ringwood are the three worse suburbs for car theft in vic, but here at good ol' 'ky west' a car has never been stolen, and this is a major difference for coverage.

i paid $1750 for my R33 gtst with them, excess is sumthn like $1200, my policy is around here some where.... after i took out my policy, their customer service dept called me for an interveiw about how i was treated by the sales team, which i gave good feed back for, im happy with them........havnt had to clain anything yet lol *touch wood*

i paid $1750 for my R33 gtst with them, excess is sumthn like $1200, my policy is around here some where....  after i took out my policy, their customer service dept called me for an interveiw about how i was treated by the sales team, which i gave good feed back for, im happy with them........havnt had to clain anything yet lol *touch wood*

lol u jinxed urself :D

I'm 24 with a terrible driving history loss of licence,many speeding fines etc etc i imported a series 2 33 GTR V Spec just cars $3260 and excess of $2600 agreed value $40,000 mods are Volk TE37's Haltech ECU HKS 3.5" exhaust i thought i got a pretty sweet deal as my mate is paying 5K for his 04 rex

Is it possible that I got quoted normal GTR insurance, rather than "imported" GTR insurance??? :(

I very much doubt that would make a difference, i think your just very lucky with that quote.

You better hurry up and find yourself a GTR and take up that quote I think :O

What state are you in?

Edited by _8OO5TED_

There is a clause in most insurance policies stating that you are insured as long as it is legal and roadworthy.

Driving a GTR, let alone a modified one, is illegal at aged 19 (in most states anyway). They will still take you insurance payments, but if you have an accident they may decide to not pay you, as you where driving the car illegally.

Just something to consider...........

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, SteveL Thank you very much for your reply, you seem to be the only person on the net who has come up with a definitive answer for which I am grateful. The "Leak" was more by way of wet bubbles when the pedal was depressed hard by a buddy while trying to gey a decent pedal when bleeding the system having fitted the rebuilt BM50 back in the car, which now makes perfect sense. A bit of a shame having just rebuilt my BM50, I did not touch the proportioning valve side of things, the BM50 was leaking from the primary piston seal and fluid was running down the the Brake booster hence the need to rebuild, I had never noticed any fluid leaking from that hole previously it only started when I refitted it to the car. The brake lines in the photo are "Kunifer" which is a Copper/Nickel alloy brake pipe, but are only the ones I use to bench bleed Master cylinders, they are perfectly legal to use on vehicles here in the UK, however the lines on the car are PVF coated steel. Thanks again for clearing this up for me, a purchase of a new BMC appears to be on the cards, I have been looking at various options in case my BM50 was not repairable and have looked at the HFM BM57 which I understand is manufactured in Australia.  
    • Well the install is officially done. Filled with fluid and bled it today, but didn't get a chance to take it on a test drive. I'll throw some final pics of the lines and whatnot but you can definitely install a DMAX rack in an R33 with pretty minor mods. I think the only other thing I had to do that isn't documented here is grind a bit of the larger banjo fitting to get it to clear since the banjos are grouped much tighter on the DMAX rack. Also the dust boots from a R33 do not fit either fyi, so if you end up doing this install for whatever reason you'll need to grab those too. One caveat with buying the S15 dust boots however is that the clamps are too small to fit on the R33 inner tie rod since they're much thicker so keep the old clamps around. The boots also twist a bit when adjusting toe but it's not a big deal. No issues or leaks so far, steering feels good and it looks like there's a bit more lock now than I had before. Getting an alignment on Saturday so I'll see how it feels then but seems like it'll be good to go       
    • I don't get in here much anymore but I can help you with this.   The hole is a vent (air relief) for the brake proportioning valve, which is built into the master cylinder.    The bad news is that if brake fluid is leaking from that hole then it's getting past the proportioning valve seals.   The really bad news is that no spare parts are available for the proportioning valve either from Nissan or after market.     It's a bit of a PITA getting the proportioning valve out of the master cylinder body anyway but, fortunately, leaks from that area are rare in my experience. BTW, if those are copper (as such) brake lines you should get rid of them.    Bundy (steel) tube is a far better choice (and legal  in Australia - if that's where you are).
×
×
  • Create New...