Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 130
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Mmm, decisions, decisions.

Its a bugger trying to decide on a IC kit when your a newbie.

I am still leaning towards the V-SPL due to its low price at the moment, it can probably be had for $1100 delivered.

I was aware of the trimming involved with the V-SPL for the front bar, nothing that cant be done in a weekend with some helpful hands.

I'm certainly not stuck on jap brands, I just cant find local kits that rival that price?...

Originally posted by rev210

sorry rob, I'm in adelaide and darwin till next sunday. Perhaps I can install the cam gear, next sunday in the arvo' , 2:00pm?

Sorry dave, no good. The car will be at SST this friday, saturday, sunday, monday, tuesday and wednesday.... So we'll have to put the cam gear in after the tune, so it'll have to be re-tuned from the looks.

  • 3 weeks later...

Hey,

sorry side tracking the thread but I was thinking about buying a HKS exhaust cam gear too but was wondering if you should purchase the intake as well? Do you lose much by not getting a set? Obviously you generally tune it +1 advance intake & -3 retard on exhaust - but the exhaust cam gear mod seems the most important.

Thanks,

Geoff

oh btw r33 gtr

So theres no problems with that VVT time stuff on the inlet or whatever for a GTR rather than some GTS-T r33? Don't reallly know just though that replacing caused problems with the ECU.

So yeah atm im stilling running the stock 'nismo chipped' ECU and not an aftermarket ECU.

How will this affect tuning?

Cheers,

Penfold

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yeah, plenty of air flow, there is a dedicated path that feeds the air in to the OEM intake tube behind the bumper As for a "tangible effect", maybe, but getting the pod/intake air out of the hot engine bay is worth it psychologically to me, even if it gives no performance difference, so the tangible effect in my Lizard brain saysss yessss  In the end, to me a tangible effect isn't always about performance, sometimes it a sound or a look, or even a...... feeling  Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga Ooga-Chaka Ooga-Ooga
    • yeah first and reverse is where you will find clutch release issues (whether hydraulic or mechanical) because the difference in revs required is the highest there; particularly changing down from 2nd to 1st when still moving. To be clearer though, it is possible that the clutch release bearing is the wrong height. This is less likely than a hydraulic issue but it is not unheard of when you are mixing and matching
    • Quite right, if you make it to that pension you deserve every cent
    • Hi all, Restoring r33 series 1 rb25det. All the heater hoses were on their way out, have replaced them and put it all back together. After testing I noticed a small leak from behind the head on the actual metal water line to the turbo when cars warm. I tried running a longer hose over it but it kept leaking...   I am about to take the (stock) manifold off again😔 to change the water line does any one have any lines they recommend? I was looking at Aeroflow Turbo Oil & Water Line Set but not sure what everyone else recommends. Car is completely stock but want to upgrade turbo eventually. it looks like ill have to disconnect a lot just to replace these lines so if there's anything else recommended to do please let me know. Thank you in advance!
    • From memory, on the R33 GTSt at least, while everyone says "It's not adjustable", I found when I changed clutches in mine, it just needed a small adjustment on the rod length. But be very wary here, as you could end up trying to push the pushrod in the master too far, or blowing out the slave.   Most likely though, if the master/slave isn't bypassing internally or leaking out, then the throw out is the wrong height compared to the fingers on the clutch, so when it moves to disengage the clutch, it isn't 100% disengaged. You can check part of this out too by jacking the car up, having the engine running, put your foot on the clutch and try to engage 1st gear. If it goes in pretty easy (Compared to the ground) and/or the wheels start turning a fair bit and it takes a bit too much brake pedal to bring them back to a stop, this is likely the issue.  I'm not sure if you can adjust the height of the forks etc in these though, it's been that long since I've touched any RB gearbox.
×
×
  • Create New...