Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

The slave is bolted to the right-hand side of the gearbox, but it's unlikely to be making a noise (It would probably have dropped all the brake/clutch fluid if it was). The clutch throw-out fork goes through the side of the 'box there so that could be it (might not be a simple fix, and its not advisable to spray lubricants though the hole, for obvious reasons). Try hitting the joints and linkages in the pedal box with some spray grease first. Otherwise, check with a bolty.

Rain shouldn't make a difference- it's unlikely to get wet there. The fork pivots on a iron nib thats screwed into the gear-case (this is inside the bellhousing). Being a post 91 model, my GT-R has a pull type clutch, so the set-up on the GTS-Ts will be different. It might be that pivot point that generates noise, or where the fork connects to the thrust bearing, or the thrust bearing itself (common source of noise [but not usually squeaks]). Check with a Mech, I would suggest. They won't charge you for a simple check like that.

i had the same problem before i got my HD clutch..... my mechanic put some high temp grease on everything.... it is SOOOO smooth and no noise now :D

oh yeah... head down to Petersham... see Mark at 328 stanmore rd petersham.... 9568 1700

tell him ed sent ya.... doodz also heads down there for his mechanical jobbies too.... all good mate...

Edited by Mr Ed32

Mine does it after it rains too.

Especially if the car is parked on grass.

I believe it's the throwout bearing squeaking on the shaft thingy inside the bell housing.... Drop the box and grease her up and it should stop squeaking.

I found that my squeak was coming from worn bushes on the pivot points in the pedal box. Try some WD40 etc and if it still happens you may need to take it appart, grease it up and put it all back.

In my case the squeak came from temperature (cold) rather than rain.

I too - have the same problem.

Normally occurs in the first 5-10 mins after i start driving.

But then if you stick your head out the window at a set of traffic lights and depress teh pedal, sometimes the squeak can be heard!!

I'll try these suggestions and hopefully fix the bugger.

:P

  • 4 weeks later...

I also have a clutch problem

I got a new clutch put in my car a few weeks back (exedy cushion button clutch)

Unfortunately i almost limped the car to melb where i was going to get it fixed properly but it was slipping too much about 300km short of melb so i had to get it done in a small country town. When i got it back it was direct driving, with clutch through the floor the wheels were turning with it on the hoist and could not put it into gear. I took it back in and he replaced a pin (longer one from a toyota hiace) and now my gears dont crunch but it is really stiff when changing gears...what is happening here? and how can i fix it...and while i am asking 50 questions (for anyone who has read this far) who can I go to? I am about to move to Sydney (eastern suburbs) and i want to get this fixed ASAP along with the install of

APEXi - AVC-R

Blitz - LM Intercooler

HKS - NEW version HKS cam pully

Nismo - Fuel Pump ECR33

Nismo - Fuel Regulator

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
    • So, now all you need to do is connect the 2 or 3x 12v feeds into the unit to permanent 12v, ACC 12V and IGN 12V that you can find in the spot behind the stereo, and the earth, and then it will switch on with the car.
×
×
  • Create New...