Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just about to rebuild the engine in my R32. Am putting together a shopping list and wanted some help.

Since I have a '93 GTR, from what I've read there is an issue with the crank to oil pump collar mating surface, and that there is a mod to fix this. Again, from what I've read this mod seems to be about $500 by the time its all done and dusted.

A quick look around, and it seems I can buy a brand new R33 Crank from UAS for just on $1000 though. Does this seem like a better idea? Obviously a little more expensive.. but replacing a 12year old crank with a new one and not having to stuff around with it sounds good?

Does anyone know of other crank alternatives/prices?

And lastly, if I got a new crank, what preparation would people recommend? For example, any toughening processes or other. (I was considering having the crank knife edged as well - recommended?).

Just for interest, my other bits on the shopping list are:

N1 Water Pump

N1 Oil Pump

Tomei Oil Restictor

JE Pistons - Totalseal rings

Crower Rods

Bearings (suggestions?)

Tomei Sump baffle (other suggestions?)

Lightened Clutch/Flywheel setup - not sure what yet, want to keep a good street pedal feel if possible.

Head work at this stage was just going to be limited to a general service and probably put 260 Poncams in.

The car will see circuit track, street, the occasional drags night, Hill Climbs and that sort of thing.

Is has Motec ECU, Motec CDI, R34 N1 Turbos and pipework to match.

Hoping for a solid and relaible 500hp at the flywheel, but with a responsive engine.

I figure the stock crank should be good for it? Especially when running the lighter pistons/rods and so on?

Any other suggestions with regard to oil control might be helpful too, as I've heard this appears to be the weak link and not sure if the above list covers all bases.

This is my first experience with a RB26, so any "look out for this" type help would be very much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100452-gtr-engine-rebuild-new-stock-crank/
Share on other sites

use the 33 gtr crank, by the time you machine your old one etc it comes to the same $$$

less hassle getting one new, thats what im doing with my 32gtr/26

Did the same, get a new 33 crank, less hassles.

Doug at Rockingham Nissan can do the R34 GTR cranks cheap also.

Tomei metal gasket kit is a good idea as they have head,all intake  and exhaust gaskets and the oil restrictors for a good price.

We normally keep all this in stock in WA.

Ah ok cool. I was going to ask this actually. Is there any real difference between the R34 Crank and R33 Crank? - I'll give Doug a call - cheers!

And where abouts are you for getting the Tomei gear?

yer get the tomei combined gaskit kit for from greenline. Also if hill climbs and such are your thing would go a custom sump mine is about 7lt no oil cooler other shops sell 9lt sumps. im using kings race bearings but most people use ACL bearings. Yes buy the new crank

yer get the tomei combined gaskit kit for from greenline. Also if hill climbs and such are your thing would go a custom sump mine is about 7lt no oil cooler other shops sell 9lt sumps. im using kings race bearings but most people use ACL bearings. Yes buy the new crank

Any recommendations for the custom sump?

Quite a few people seem say the Tomei insert is ok, but I can see that adding capacity can't hurt either...

Who'd you get yours from?

what kinda cost it a rebulid for a rb26? i rekon my bottom end is gone, and i was just chasing a price

Well - 'Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?'

A rebuild could be just a set of rings and bearings and a 'freshen up'. Or full-house build doing pistons, rods and crank etc.. I guess it depends on what you are doing with it.

I am trying to build something that will see some track work, so I have to balance my budget with things that will allow the motor to 'live' when its at revs on hard corners. So my build is going to include things like new oil pump, sump modifications and so on. But I am not going as full on as someone building an outright race car either.

You could easily get more power than I am aiming for by spending less money. It will most likely live on the street because it doesn't see the same temperatures or get held at high revs for as long. If you aren't doing track work, you may not really need sump modifications at all.

But I am doing the same as you, trying to find out from others what the 'balance' needs to be for what I want to do with the car.

Doesn't really answer your question I know. But the answer is 'it depends'. :P

Trust extension is a must.

Top racing do Tomei in WA 94588155.

Great! Thanks for that - I'll give them a buzz and doing some sniffing around on this.

The Trust Sump is a new baffle and everything is it? I have to cut the old sump and weld this on etc?

Is the Tomei baffle coupled with say an oil cooler as good an option? (since the oil cooler will add 'some' more capacity) Or is the Trust unit a superior baffle besides the actual capacity increase...?

Go the R33 GTR crank, better option.

Bolt on sump baffles are good -custom baffles with one way metal trap doors are better, also larger capacity sump, oil restritor in the head, an external line from the rear of the head to the sump.

R34 GTR crank is no different to the R33 GTR crank.

Contact Greg from Proengines, he goes by the username of proengines on here. I have had my engine rebuilt by him and he is exceptional. He would be able to answer your rebuild questions & if you search his previous posts he goes in depth & is very helpful.

The people that did my rebuild also modded the sump. I dont have a full custom sump. I have tomei sump baffles inside as well. the trust sump how much lower to the ground are they Blitz. Also as above i have a return line from head to sump,oil restritor in head and the head and block drains for oil were enlarged.

  • 3 weeks later...

there only one draw back with the TRUST sump it hangs below the cross member and if you ever run a curb etc (track day) the first thing to hit will be the sump, this is the reason why so many people build custom sumps that go out to the sides instead of down. Not saying don't but just making you awear.

pete

I don't see why a crank collar properly fitted would not be good enough for 500hp. It costs half as much or less 'but I might as well throw $500 in the river since I'm rebuilding the engine anyway'. Note sarcasm - not rudely meant, just easier to use.

Also those pistons will not likely be lighter will they? More likely the opposite. Dunno about the rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I don't understand how this hasn't boiled down to - Upgrade the turbo when you have everything required. ECU, injectors, fuel pump, turbo, etc. Do it all at once.  If you don't have everything required, just enjoy the car as it is and keep saving up your pennies. 
    • Sounds like you've got an interesting adventure ahead here with local support if you have trouble! My guess is that, unboosted, you will be OK with a small upgrade like -9. What will happen is that once the stock ECU sees more airflow than it expects it will add a heap of fuel and pull a heap of timing to be safe because it can't understand how it could get that much air without there being an issue. You will see clouds of black smoke and it won't pull hard through the midrange and top end. So, overall it will be a bit frustrating but should be OK. If you are still nervous set the base timing back 2o through the CAS, but it will be even more sluggish everywhere. As said above through...this is not my guarantee your engine won't be blown into a million pieces, leaving you looking for very hard to find parts A better idea is get a computer with logging ASAP, wire in a wide band O2 sensor and a use remote tuner. I've done multiple cars this way and while it is not as good as a specific tune on a dyno they can get it 90% right. I'd suggest if you can afford an R33 GTR these days you can afford an ECU and tune. And if you can't afford that you sure won't be able to afford the rebuild if it goes bad in the meantime,.  
    • Yeah it would be nice if someone took the time to put that sort of information together, but there are a lot of variations in looms. I think you are making this way hard for yourself if you just want to get it running....sourcing an SR20 with the right wiring will be a billion times easier than matching the RB loom to an S15 chassis. If you do end up going this way, you just need to trace every wire in the loom with a multimeter, 95% of them will go to a location you can confirm at the ECU.....and then post it up for the next person who needs it  
    • Just top it up with water, and keep a general idea of how much you added. It is normal for water to be pushed into and pulled out of the reservoir through the cap, and it should not be more than half full or it will be likely to overflow when hot. Any decent mechanic can do a pressure test of the cooling system to confirm if you have a leak. Keep in mind if it is only leaking a little and when hot it may well evaporate before you see it hit the ground
    • I'd ask the shop what they used and use that. Mixing coolants is sometimes OK, sometimes not, and you have know the details of each coolant to know whether it's a good idea or not.
×
×
  • Create New...