Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys,

Just about to rebuild the engine in my R32. Am putting together a shopping list and wanted some help.

Since I have a '93 GTR, from what I've read there is an issue with the crank to oil pump collar mating surface, and that there is a mod to fix this. Again, from what I've read this mod seems to be about $500 by the time its all done and dusted.

A quick look around, and it seems I can buy a brand new R33 Crank from UAS for just on $1000 though. Does this seem like a better idea? Obviously a little more expensive.. but replacing a 12year old crank with a new one and not having to stuff around with it sounds good?

Does anyone know of other crank alternatives/prices?

And lastly, if I got a new crank, what preparation would people recommend? For example, any toughening processes or other. (I was considering having the crank knife edged as well - recommended?).

Just for interest, my other bits on the shopping list are:

N1 Water Pump

N1 Oil Pump

Tomei Oil Restictor

JE Pistons - Totalseal rings

Crower Rods

Bearings (suggestions?)

Tomei Sump baffle (other suggestions?)

Lightened Clutch/Flywheel setup - not sure what yet, want to keep a good street pedal feel if possible.

Head work at this stage was just going to be limited to a general service and probably put 260 Poncams in.

The car will see circuit track, street, the occasional drags night, Hill Climbs and that sort of thing.

Is has Motec ECU, Motec CDI, R34 N1 Turbos and pipework to match.

Hoping for a solid and relaible 500hp at the flywheel, but with a responsive engine.

I figure the stock crank should be good for it? Especially when running the lighter pistons/rods and so on?

Any other suggestions with regard to oil control might be helpful too, as I've heard this appears to be the weak link and not sure if the above list covers all bases.

This is my first experience with a RB26, so any "look out for this" type help would be very much appreciated!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/100452-gtr-engine-rebuild-new-stock-crank/
Share on other sites

use the 33 gtr crank, by the time you machine your old one etc it comes to the same $$$

less hassle getting one new, thats what im doing with my 32gtr/26

Did the same, get a new 33 crank, less hassles.

Doug at Rockingham Nissan can do the R34 GTR cranks cheap also.

Tomei metal gasket kit is a good idea as they have head,all intake  and exhaust gaskets and the oil restrictors for a good price.

We normally keep all this in stock in WA.

Ah ok cool. I was going to ask this actually. Is there any real difference between the R34 Crank and R33 Crank? - I'll give Doug a call - cheers!

And where abouts are you for getting the Tomei gear?

yer get the tomei combined gaskit kit for from greenline. Also if hill climbs and such are your thing would go a custom sump mine is about 7lt no oil cooler other shops sell 9lt sumps. im using kings race bearings but most people use ACL bearings. Yes buy the new crank

yer get the tomei combined gaskit kit for from greenline. Also if hill climbs and such are your thing would go a custom sump mine is about 7lt no oil cooler other shops sell 9lt sumps. im using kings race bearings but most people use ACL bearings. Yes buy the new crank

Any recommendations for the custom sump?

Quite a few people seem say the Tomei insert is ok, but I can see that adding capacity can't hurt either...

Who'd you get yours from?

what kinda cost it a rebulid for a rb26? i rekon my bottom end is gone, and i was just chasing a price

Well - 'Speed costs money - how fast do you want to go?'

A rebuild could be just a set of rings and bearings and a 'freshen up'. Or full-house build doing pistons, rods and crank etc.. I guess it depends on what you are doing with it.

I am trying to build something that will see some track work, so I have to balance my budget with things that will allow the motor to 'live' when its at revs on hard corners. So my build is going to include things like new oil pump, sump modifications and so on. But I am not going as full on as someone building an outright race car either.

You could easily get more power than I am aiming for by spending less money. It will most likely live on the street because it doesn't see the same temperatures or get held at high revs for as long. If you aren't doing track work, you may not really need sump modifications at all.

But I am doing the same as you, trying to find out from others what the 'balance' needs to be for what I want to do with the car.

Doesn't really answer your question I know. But the answer is 'it depends'. :P

Trust extension is a must.

Top racing do Tomei in WA 94588155.

Great! Thanks for that - I'll give them a buzz and doing some sniffing around on this.

The Trust Sump is a new baffle and everything is it? I have to cut the old sump and weld this on etc?

Is the Tomei baffle coupled with say an oil cooler as good an option? (since the oil cooler will add 'some' more capacity) Or is the Trust unit a superior baffle besides the actual capacity increase...?

Go the R33 GTR crank, better option.

Bolt on sump baffles are good -custom baffles with one way metal trap doors are better, also larger capacity sump, oil restritor in the head, an external line from the rear of the head to the sump.

R34 GTR crank is no different to the R33 GTR crank.

Contact Greg from Proengines, he goes by the username of proengines on here. I have had my engine rebuilt by him and he is exceptional. He would be able to answer your rebuild questions & if you search his previous posts he goes in depth & is very helpful.

The people that did my rebuild also modded the sump. I dont have a full custom sump. I have tomei sump baffles inside as well. the trust sump how much lower to the ground are they Blitz. Also as above i have a return line from head to sump,oil restritor in head and the head and block drains for oil were enlarged.

  • 3 weeks later...

there only one draw back with the TRUST sump it hangs below the cross member and if you ever run a curb etc (track day) the first thing to hit will be the sump, this is the reason why so many people build custom sumps that go out to the sides instead of down. Not saying don't but just making you awear.

pete

I don't see why a crank collar properly fitted would not be good enough for 500hp. It costs half as much or less 'but I might as well throw $500 in the river since I'm rebuilding the engine anyway'. Note sarcasm - not rudely meant, just easier to use.

Also those pistons will not likely be lighter will they? More likely the opposite. Dunno about the rods.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...