Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Originally posted by Jet-33

the right connections u can get one for around 30, avg is about 40 though i believe

Average [40k] is about right with dealers & resellers, direct imports can be had for as little as 33-35k, though 30k is definately a stretch - that is if you want a 1/2 decent car...

  • Replies 101
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Originally posted by inark

well actually seeing as i browse around all the auctions i dont base my findings on fiction... ur not the only one that has been researching imports for a couple of years.

there was also another one that went thru about 3 weeks ago... black... no wing... TURBO... was a 99 model... nice rims and a POD filter and aftermarket front bar and that went for 31k.

Yes, that car had over 90,000 kms on the clock - or perhaps even more? And from memory it was an auto...[cheaper in japan in auto as this is standard manual is optional cost].

no it was a manual and had about 75k on the clock... point is u can get them cheaper by importing...

the 27k R34 GTT was stock... yellow and had about 89 on the clock... it was accident repaired but repaired very well. for 27k i'd get it.

EDIT***

if i had the money at the time that is

Originally posted by inark

no actually it was yellow... got a pic but its too big and i have no editing software here at work.

use windows "Paint!" lol, unless iprimus don't allow it! :(

So you guys reckon there might be something wrong with that GTT R34 for High $30? it has only done 22,000km's and the paint seems pretty intact.. no scratches.. think it is a 99 model..

Originally posted by pushead

So you guys reckon there might be something wrong with that GTT R34 for $36,500? it has only done 22,000km's and the paint seems pretty intact.. no scratches.. think it is a 99 model..

Nope.

Just make sure you give it a thorough checking, like looking for uneven lines in the panels / bonnet etc, look for welds under the bonnet where the quarter panels meet the engine bay. Also look for resprayed panels - usually lighter or darker than the rest of the car...maybe get an racv report on it. Drive it! And then bargain for it - if you want to that is. Price is quite good, but you can probably knock it down a bit - I bought mine from Ballarat too!

Oh yeah, and ask the seller if its been in an accident!

I am under the impression the car in question [pushead's thread] is in the town of Ballarat.

Originally posted by pushead

Its a private dealer. its in ballarat on eureka rd.

Originally posted by pushead

Cruize down to ballarat today as one of my friend wanted a r34.

$36.5 does seem a touch high. I'm budgeting around $37K for an R34 GT-T which i'm going to import later this year. Just saving at the moment. The only info i've been goin on is the J-Spec auction lists, and average seems to be around 35K, cheaper ones low 30's, more expensives ones around 37-38. I'm trying to find one like the one in my avatar which is going to make things a little more expensive again. Tempted about black at the moment too, coming to join ya nismo!! :D

the silver one looks very nice, really like those wheels. Suit the car real well. There was a private GT-T for sale in Ballarat. Saw it at carpoint.com.au. It was the GTR Purple, looked very, very l337! :) I'll try and find it...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
    • Does the scanner do all the CUs in the car, or only the ECU?
    • @666DAN sorry to bring you and old thread.     I've got my de+t done and it's all running great other than 1 small issue.    Car has remained auto with the na auto and tcm, I've used a stagea ecu with. NIstune board and everything is great other than my gear selection on the dash. It illuminates park, reverse, neutral, 3rd and 2nd when selected . But nothing when in  drive or what gear your in when you pop it into tiptronic. I'm sure there is maybe 1 wire in the ecu plug I need to move to rectify this. Do ya have any ideas?     Cheers man
    • Well I recently changed my rear axles and was thinking if I bumped anything, I have been driving the car for a while now though... But it has been raining today so everything is wet under the wheel arches. Brakes feel fine and can't hear any of the metal screamers, I had a squeak coming from one of the handbrake drums but that seems to have gone away a while ago. I was going down a hill when it lit up and I did feel the abs bite for a second and question why it did it?
    • Correct. Um. I dunno. I haven't cared enough about the way that the NA cars work to know for sure. But..... The 33/34 turbo manual cars have an electronic speed sensor in the gearbox that outputs a +/- (ie, sawtooth AC) voltage signal. That is connected to the speedo. The speedo then outputs a 0-5v square wave (ie, PWM) signal that the ECU (and any other CU on the bus) sees. The speed sensor is NOT directly connected to the ECU. So here's the problem. Your new ECU expects to see the PWM signal, but must somehow be getting a direct signal from the diff speed sensor. Which would suggest that the wiring of the NA car is not the same as the turbo cars. I think you will need to spend some time with (hopefully the wiring diagram for the car) and a multimeter to see what is connected to what. Then, presuming I am correct**, you would then want to separate the ECU speed signal input from the rest of the car's wiring, and probably either buy a speed signal converter, or build one using an arduino (or similar). That would take in the speed sensor signal and output a scaled (and suitably rearranged) signal for the ECU. ** We shouldn't presume that I am correct here, because there might be something else crazy going on. I don't think you could convert the speedo to be fed from the gearbox sensor, because the pulse rate from that sensor is probably different to the diff sensor and then the speedo would read wrongly. And this also wouldn't fix the ECU's problem either, because the ECU doesn't want to see the gearbox signal direct either (assuming that they are all on the same wiring, for some odd NA related reason, see above caveat!) Does this help? Probably not. Can you make it work? Almost certainly. With the above work. You should buy a handheld oscilloscope from Aliexpress so that you can view these signals directly. Connect up the probes and drive the car. Show photos of the screen when drving at known speeds and connected to different places, and we'll see what we can learn about it.
×
×
  • Create New...