Jump to content
SAU Community

Fitting An R34 Rb26 In An R32 Gtr

IOWNU

By IOWNU,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
Posted (edited)

Hey guys,

Well I've recently purchased an RB26 engine out of an R34 and it is on its way here now from Japan.

Was just wondering what's involved in getting it fitted in an R32?

I've heard that its a pretty straight forward job, but was just wondering if everything is interchangeable, or would i need to have certain things changed (such as the ECU, various hoses etc)

Just wanna organise things well in advance, so that there are no surprise set backs when the engine gets here.

Also, while I've created a thread, how would it effect overall performance? I'm assuming it could only be beneficial towards power output...

Thanks,

Ali.

Edited by IOWNU
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/101187-fitting-an-r34-rb26-in-an-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites
Beer Baron Grand Master

Beer Baron

Posted
Posted

it would be easy if you have the 34 GTR cooler as they have the inlet temp sensor mounted in the cooler outlet. if not you can always drill and tap a hole in the plenum and mount it there. other than that i can't forsee many dramas. i would use the R32/R33 GTR ecu too.

DoughBoy Veteran

DoughBoy

Posted
Posted

What ECU/wiring loom are you intending to use? There are a few drama's that Richard has missed:

CAS: R34 use a different design crank angle sensor, you either need to change the camshafts or splice the new CAS wiring into the R32/33 loom

EGT: R34's also run an EGT sensor, not an issue to weld or block off the hole with a bolt. It's in the rear dump pipe near the flange.

Easiest solution would be to run the R32 loom, as the R33 and R34 looms have additional connectors which may not be compatible with your car i.e. ABS, left side indicator, alternator. But you will still have the issue of CAS, and the mounting tabs on the fuel rail for the lower loom (knock, oil temp/pressure, AAC) will not match up, so reuse your R32 fuel rail. Also use your R32 AFMs - is it a stock computer currently in your car? Tune will be a touch out regardless.

If you have both engines out side by side it would be pretty easy to configure the R34 engine for use in the R32, and just swap out the model specific parts.

Edit: Also forgot the ignition system on an R34 is direct, so you either re-use the R32 ignitor pack/loom/coils or use the entire R34 loom/cpu/etc.

Edit again: Also need to change the sump/front diff assembly to R32/33 as the 34's use a 3.45:1 vs 4.11:1 in the older models.

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
What ECU/wiring loom are you intending to use? There are a few drama's that Richard has missed:

CAS: R34 use a different design crank angle sensor, you either need to change the camshafts or splice the new CAS wiring into the R32/33 loom

EGT: R34's also run an EGT sensor, not an issue to weld or block off the hole with a bolt. It's in the rear dump pipe near the flange.

Easiest solution would be to run the R32 loom, as the R33 and R34 looms have additional connectors which may not be compatible with your car i.e. ABS, left side indicator, alternator. But you will still have the issue of CAS, and the mounting tabs on the fuel rail for the lower loom (knock, oil temp/pressure, AAC) will not match up, so reuse your R32 fuel rail. Also use your R32 AFMs - is it a stock computer currently in your car? Tune will be a touch out regardless.

If you have both engines out side by side it would be pretty easy to configure the R34 engine for use in the R32, and just swap out the model specific parts.

Edit: Also forgot the ignition system on an R34 is direct, so you either re-use the R32 ignitor pack/loom/coils or use the entire R34 loom/cpu/etc.

Edit again: Also need to change the sump/front diff assembly to R32/33 as the 34's use a 3.45:1 vs 4.11:1 in the older models.

Hey thanks for the very informative post!

Looks like theres more work to be done than I anticipated! :P

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hey iownu

iam planing the do the same thing as you with my r32 gts4.

and wondering how much did you pay for the engine???

thanks

Hey mate,

Here's the thread about how much the engine cost me, importing it etc.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=99723

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
hehe, trust me to pick the lamest part of the whole thing. lol listen to doughboy.

lol.

Thanks for your info about the cooler as well.

Just feels like there are so many small things that need to be done. :P

IOWNU Grand Master

IOWNU

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you will certainly need to keep your wits about you if you are doing it yourself.

Nah def. won't be doing it myself.

I'll leave it to the mechanic. But i can anticipate him calling me up everday telling me that he needs another few days etc, for this and that.

See how it goes.....

  • 2 years later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GabsReDeal
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By GabsReDeal · Posted

      After my last update, I went ahead with cleaning and restoring the entire fuel system. This included removing the tank and cleaning it with the Beyond Balistics solution, power washing it multiple times, drying it thoroughly, rinsing with IPA, drying again with heat gun and compressed air. Also, cleaning out the lines, fuel rail, and replacing the fuel pump with an OEM-style one. During the cleaning process, I replaced several hoses - including the breather hose on the fuel tank, which turned out to be the cause of the earlier fuel leak. This is what the old fuel filter looked like: Fuel tank before cleaning: Dirty Fuel Tank.mp4   Fuel tank after cleaning (some staining remains): Clean Fuel Tank.mp4 Both the OEM 270cc and new DeatschWerks 550cc injectors were cleaned professionally by a shop. Before reassembling everything, I tested the fuel flow by running the pump output into a container at the fuel filter location - flow looked good. I then fitted the new fuel filter and reassembled the rest of the system. Fuel Flow Test.mp4 Test 1 - 550cc injectors Ran the new fuel pump with its supplied diagonal strainer (different from OEM’s flat strainer) and my 550cc injectors using the same resized-injector map I had successfully used before. At first, it idled roughly and stalled when I applied throttle. Checked the spark plugs and found that they were fouled with carbon (likely from the earlier overly rich running when the injectors were clogged). After cleaning the plugs, the car started fine. However, it would only idle for 30–60 seconds before stalling, and while driving it would feel like a “fuel cut” after a few seconds - though it wouldn’t fully stall. Test 2 – Strainer swap Suspecting the diagonal strainer might not be reaching the tank bottom, I swapped it for the original flat strainer and filled the tank with ~45L of fuel. The issue persisted exactly the same. Test 3 – OEM injectors To eliminate tuning variables, I reinstalled the OEM 270cc injectors and reverted to the original map. Cleaned the spark plugs again just in-case. The stalling and “fuel cut” still remained.   At this stage, I suspect an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, caused during the cleaning process. This has led me to look into getting Frenchy’s fuel hanger and replacing the unit entirely. TL;DR: Cleaned and restored the fuel system (tank, lines, rail, pump). Tested 550cc injectors with the same resized-injector map as before, but the car stalls at idle and experiences what feels like “fuel cut” after a few seconds of driving. Swapped back to OEM injectors with original map to rule out tuning, but the issue persists. Now suspecting an intermittent power or connection fault at the fuel pump hanger, possibly cause by the cleaning process.  
    • MBS206
      Jacks that fit under GTR lips that can reach the subframe?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      For race cars, this is one part where I find having the roll cage bar having gone through a hole in the floor better than the build it up on a ledge inside... The Merc I help on, the main hoop ends are marked on the car, and the jack is marked... Jack goes under a few inches and lifts one whole side of the car up... Removes that fight for long slim jacks for race car duties!   My biggest issue for the daily drivers I work on, is my jacks don't go high enough. The jacks start out on a few blocks, jack it up, then start a second jack under it on more blocks, and then I can get an axle stand under it. My axle stands are presently in use, and are nearly fully extended. The car is sitting with barely more than a cm of clearance to get the wheel off the studs! Sarah's Kluger is the same, as it has an ungodly amount of droop available in the suspension and a distinct lack of good jacking points!
    • MBS206
      NC MX5

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Happy? Yep, my to do list is getting shorter and shorter. Either this light approaching is the end of the tunnel, or I'm about to be hit by a train... Ha ha ha   Also, Duncan isn't that far out of town that you need to make a multi day drive out of it. 😛
    • turbo76lx
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By turbo76lx · Posted

      Sorry I meant that we are building the EH for a client.
    • The Bogan
      Torana Lx Gtr Hatch, Lots Of Pictures

      By The Bogan · Posted

      LOL, when one "money pit" is never enough Noice, and excellent work mate
×
×
  • Create New...