Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Id be heading probably eastern freeway, accross the top of the city, calder freeway, calder park

We could meet at a maccas or something sure.

Semi RWD..whats that? ATESSA like moi?

Sure, will come up with something on friday arvo or you can tell me a place where you want to meet up too.

  • Replies 113
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Further info is anyone is not quite sure -

REQUIREMENTS:

All you need is a registered vehicle, helmet, license and a need for speed!

TIMES:

Gates Open - 4.00 PM

Racing Starts- 6.00 PM

Racing Stops - 11.00 PM

COST:

Competitor Entry - $55.00 (Incl. GST)

Burnout Comp - $25.00 (Incl. GST)

Spectator Entry - $20.00 (Incl. GST)

Children13 yrs. & under- FREE

NOTES:

No alcohol permitted through the gates.

No pets or animals permitted through the gates.

Food and refreshments available

I will be at nunawading maccas at 3:45 ok. Look for the guy in the wagon :)

Ill have to pick up a mate from resivoir on the way, but if there are only like 2-3 of us maybe you guys will come with, else, we'll split up on bell street.

See you there tomorrow everyone.

Dont worry about semi slicks at calder guys, I rekon there not necessary. I ran a 12.5 with a 1.8 second 60 ft on bald Dunlop SP8000e - granted they were 265s, but still its all comes down to the way you launch, you gotta remember the start line is grippy as f**k, big burnnout on st tyres gets em even grippier. Its not like the street at all, ive got mates who dont wanna take there cars down because they compare launchin it at the track to like launching off the lights - its not the case - trick is to keep the revs high so it gets onto boost fast, and as the lights stage on the yellow, keep ur clutch at the friction point jusssssssssssssst before it grabs, dont shit urself from a little wheelspin but if its excessive just knife the clutch slightly. Another method is handbrake, but i dont like it because it can upset traction. Done be shy thru the gears, no flatchanging, but sharp quick and precise, keep the shifts stictly to the redline, i see so many ppl shifting early. Also keeping the car cool right up to the line helps, when ur in pits getting ready for a run, engine off, bonnet up, get a couple of mate to push the car. It looks stupid but I helps so much.

Just some advice for those who havent raced, I really enjoy my drag racing, ive probably had close to 50 or more runs in all my cars thru the years.

Best advice though, dont distract yourself, just get out there and have fun.

I was going to put on the semis, but couldn't be arsed.

I'm running 255 Hankook Ventus Sport which hook up okay.

Previously I have run a 1.9 60ft so I hope I can repeat that.

I'm buying a hand water spray so I can cool the pipes after each run, and also cool the oil cooler and as well. Gonna look like a goon, but who cares. Temperature = bad!

Water spray is a great idea to take down there, make sure everythings cool. As for sprayin on the oil cooler - what for lol, ur pushing it hard for less than 14 seconds. I dont think there gonna be soaring.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • OK, Step 3, if you need to remove the valve body, either to replace it, the TCM, or to do a more complete drain.  First, you need to disconnect the TCM input wires, they are about half way up the transmission on the drivers side. One plug and the wires are out of the way, but there is also a spring clip that stops the socket from sliding back into the transmission. On my car the spring clip was easy to get, but the socket was really stuck in the o-ring of the transmission housing and took some.....persuasion. You can see both the plug to remove (first) and the spring clip (second) in this pic Incidentally, right next to the plug, you can see where the casting has allowance for a dispstick/filler which Nissan decided not to provide. there is a cap held on with a 6mm head bolt that you can remove to overfill it (AMS recommend a 1.5l overfill). Final step before the big mess, remove the speed sensor that is clipped to the valve body at the rear of the box.  Then removal of the Valve Body. For this the USDM Q50 workshop manual has a critical diagram: There are a billion bolts visible. Almost all of them do not need to be removed, just the 14 shown on the diagram. Even so, I both removed one extra, and didn't check which length bolt came from which location (more on that later....). Again it is worth undoing the 4 corners first, but leaving them a couple of turns in to hold the unit up....gravity is not your friend here and trans oil will be going everywhere. Once the corners are loose but still in remove all the other 10 bolts, then hold the valve body up with 1 hand while removing the final 4. Then, everything just comes free easily, or like in my case you start swearing because that plug is stuck in the casing. Done, the valve body and TCM are out
    • OK, so if you are either going for the bigger fluid change or are changing the valve body which includes the Transmission Control Module (TCM), first you should have both a new gasket 31397-1XJ0A and a torque wrench that can work down to 8Nm (very low, probably a 1/4 drive one). You can probably get by without either, but I really didn't want to pull it all apart together due to a leak. First, you now need that big oil pan. The transmission pan is 450 long x 350 wide, and it will probably leak on all sides, so get ready for a mess. There are 24x 6mm headed bolts holding the pan on. I undid the 2 rear corners, then screwed those bolts back in a couple of turns to let the pan go low at that end, then removed all the middle bolts on each side. Then, undo the front corner bolts slowly while holding the pan up, and 80% of the fluid will head out the rear. From there, remove the remaining bolts and the pan is off. You can see it is still dripping oil absolutely everywhere...it dripped all night.... I got another couple of litres when I removed the pan, and then another few when I removed the valve body - all up another 4l on top of the 3 already dropped in step 1.
    • Yeh I think i'll message an old contact i had for ages that manages his own tyre shop now.. n tell him what i want n work with him before ordering..  Got this 17x9 +30 Driftteks on 245/45/17 PSR Drag Radials on the rear.. They fit well - for your reference in future - Rear guards  have been lipped in & minimal to non flaring of the rear Gaurds.    
    • If only it were that easy! I also needed to remove seats, shocks, brake calipers, send my car through a fence, and use measuring and ended up guessing because I didn't remove seats, shocks and brake calipers. It can be hard sometimes Can be a little more complex than 'just measure' if you want to truly measure the entire wheel through all of it's suspension travel. But if you aren't going for every last mm then yeah, you can check the space you currently have and guesstimate.
    • If you own a car, and it has wheels on it, and you know the offset of those wheels, and you have a measuring device, you have everything you need to work out if other wheels will fit.
×
×
  • Create New...