Jump to content
SAU Community

Want To Build An Rb30det On The Cheap?

oscar32
 Share

Recommended Posts

oscar32 Mentor

oscar32

Posted
Posted

***ENGINE NOW SOLD, PLEASE SEE LAST POST RE: WHATS LEFT***

I've got all the bits from an RB25 DE front cut (plus some other bits).

I was going to build a RB30det, but my new project says no :O

Its pretty much all the bits you need, bar a turbo, some machine work and assembly is required of course. Cubes wrote a great how to on this motor :)

I'm chasing around $1300 for all the below parts, if you'd like to make an offer, PM me and we will see how it goes. This includes delivery to Melbourne, Sydney or Canberra via a trailer to your door.

The front cut was worth around $2000, plus there is 3 years worth of R32 modification leftovers.

The obvious RB25 DE head (still attached to the rest of the motor). In good condition, and from a healthy motor that still would run (if it was in a car).

Oh, and for the record the obvious RB30 block IS included. I've got two if you'd like them both. You could build a V12 by strapping them together! awesome.

I'd really rather sell the whole lot - I have run out of room in my garage, and I don't need any of this stuff :) I imagine you don't need it all either, but it could be sold for profit. .

If you really just want the head or bottom end, or both pm me and we will talk.

Below is a list of all the other parts you'll get.

Car showed 88XXX kms, which was about right I'd say.

Auto GTS Dash in great condition

A/C "radiator" (I think its called a condensor - the thing that sits at the front)

A/C compressor, lines and all that stuff (no gas of course)

Heater box from behind the dash

Ashtry (with woodgrain for some reason)

RB 25DE bottom end, in great conditon

RB25DE Computer .

Auto gearbox computer -

Coil packs x 6. Checked them over and they look ok, no cracks or anything..

Suits RB20DE, RB20DET, RB26DETT and S1 R33 GTS-T and RB25de of course (also your new RB30)

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine)

Glovebox

Surround for cluster

Kick panels (both sides)

Steering arms from both sides (with stock suspension in good nik - no leaks) they are 4 stud though)

Steering Rack

ABS module

Induction pipes/air box (whole thing) (suits turbo car or NA) WITH AFM

Radiator in A1 condition (no bent fins - same as a turbo one)

All plastics from around the front of a 33 (wheel arches and splash gaurds and stuff)

Brake lines (all of the metal ones)

Auto gearbox fom the above car, Gearbox is in good condition with around 88000 kms on it. Its the same model as a turbo one, so if you struggle with your left foot, it'll be right up your alley.

Apparently its a 5 speed too, I'm not sure but thats what I was told when I bought it. Either way it appears in good nik.

Also have a VL N/A head, enjoy that as your new boat anchor!!!

Any questions you can PM or mail me.

Cheers!!!

oscar32 Mentor

oscar32

Posted
  • Author
Posted
you may just want to include wether this is an RB25de from an R32 or R33.

r33 ones have VVT and ot suitable for R32 owners...

good luck

Thanks for that - I didn't know.

The car was a S2 R32 GTS with the 2.5 DE motor. (1992 model).

TTT Grand Master

TTT

Posted
Posted

sorry for the double reply.

but this line from your add.

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine)

is that a typo?

is it meant to be R32?

if it is supposed to be an R32 (since all the other parts seem to be), then I will buy the 3 air con vents from you..

let me know please.

oscar32 Mentor

oscar32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Na, thats an oddball bit that popped up in amongst everything.

Anyhow, it appears the two engines are gone, so I'll separte all the rest of the parts next week in a new ad with some piccies.

P.S. Nice sig!! LMAO

oscar32 Mentor

oscar32

Posted
  • Author
Posted

ENGINE IS NOW SOLD!!!!

These are all R33 bits from another auto car that was here for a while :)

Speedo, Tacho and all that jazz (showing very low kays) - $50.00

A/C "radiator" (I think its called a condensor - the thing that sits at the front) $40

A/C compressor, lines and all that stuff (no gas of course) $20

Heater box from behind the dash $20

Ashtry (with woodgrain for some reason) $whatever you like

RB25DE Computer . $40

Full R33 2 door dash with vents (no cracks, looks fine) $50

Glovebox $20

Surround for cluster $20

Kick panels (both sides) $20

Steering arms from both sides (with stock suspension in good nik - no leaks) they are 4 stud though) $100

Induction pipes/air box (whole thing) (suits turbo car or NA) $100

RB20 AFM $80

Radiator in A1 condition (no bent fins - same as a turbo one) $50

All plastics from around the front of a 33 (wheel arches and splash gaurds and stuff) $20

Brake lines (all of the metal ones) $20

Also have a VL N/A head, enjoy that as your new boat anchor!!! This is free to a good home :D

Any questions you can PM or mail me.

Offers accepted :) This stuff just needs to go :)

Cheers!!!

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Even more fun, leave all the ADAS stuff plugged in, but in different locations, hopefully avoid any codes!   And honestly, all these new cars with their weird electronics. Pull all the electronics out Duncan, and just shove an aftermarket ECU and if needed a trans controller in, along with a PDM. Make it run basic but race car styled!
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      To follow up a question from earlier too since I had the front bar off again (fking!) This is what is between the bumper and the drivers side wheel And this is the navigator side, only one thing but its a biggy! So basically....no putting coolers in the wheel arches without a lot of moving other stuff. Assuming I move to properly race prepping this car I'll take that job on and see how the computers respond to removing a whole bunch of ADAS modules
    • Duncan
      Duncan's V37.......race car?

      By Duncan · Posted

      So I prepped the car for another track day on Wednesday (will be interesting to see coolant temps post flushing out and the larger reservoir, with a forecast of 3-14 being 20o cooler than last time I took it out). Couple of things to mention; since I am just driving the car and not taking a support vehicle, I took the rear seats out and just loaded the back up Team Trackday style. Look at all that space! To cover off removing the rear seat....it is weird (note the hybrid is probably different because it wouldn't have folding rear seats) Basically, you remove the lower seat base, very similar to a r series but it is a clip that pulls forward to release the base rather than it being bolted down. Easy Then, you need to remove the side section of the rear seat on each side. There is a 14mm head nut at the bottom of the side piece, the it slides upwards off a hook at the top to release; you also need to unhook the seatbelt from the loop at the top. Then the centre piece is weird. You need to release/fold the seats forward with the tab in the boot on each side From there, there are 2,x12mm headed bolts holding the rear of each seat to the folding bracket, under the trim between the rear seat and the boot (4x christmas tree clips there, they suck). The seat is out but you can see where the bolts attach to the bracket
    • RP1421
      S15 Spec R

      By RP1421 · Posted

      As discussed in the previous post, the bushes in the 110 needed replacing. I took this opportunity to replace the castor bushes, the front lower control arm, lower the car and get the alignment dialled in with new tyres. I took it down to Alignment Motorsports on the GC to get this work done and also get more out of the Shockworks as I felt like I wasn't getting the full use out of them.  To cut a very long story short, it ended up being the case the passenger side castor arm wouldn't accept the brand new bush as the sleeve had worn badly enough to the point you could push the new bush in by hand and completely through. Trying a pair of TRD bushes didn't fix the issue either (I had originally gone with Hardrace bushes). We needed to urgently source another castor arm, and thankfully this was sourced and the guys at the shop worked on my car until 7pm on a Saturday to get everything done. The car rides a lot nicer now with the suspension dialled in properly. Lowered the car a little as well to suit the lower profile front tyres, and just bring the car down generally. Eternally thankful for the guys down at the shop to get the car sorted, we both pulled big favours from our contacts to get it done on the Saturday.  Also plugged in the new Stedi foglights into the S15, and even from a quick test in the garage I'm keen to see how they look out on the road. I had some concerns about the length of the LED body and whether it'd fit in the foglight housing but it's fine.  I've got a small window coming up next month where I'll likely get a little paint work done on the 110 to remove the rear wing, add a boot wing and roof wing, get the side skirt fixed up and colour match the little panel on the tail lights so that I can install some badges that I've kept in storage. I'm also tempted to put in a new pair of headlights on the 110.  Until then, here's some more pictures from Easter this year. 
    • joshuaho96
      R32 GTS (RB20DE) Injectors Replacement

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      I would put a fuel pressure gauge between the filter and the fuel rail, see if it's maintaining good fuel pressure at idle going up to the point when it stalls. Do you see any strange behavior in commanded fuel leading up to the point when it stalls? You might have to start going through the service manual and doing a long list of sensor tests if it's not the fuel system for whatever reason.
×
×
  • Create New...