Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines.

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together. I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time. When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Chris, the GCG hi-flow is $1950 and as SK mentioned, they bold straight back up exactly how the old one came off - no need to worry about new manifolds, dump pipes, or oil and water feed lines. 

From what I've read on their website (link HERE), they replace the ceramic turbine with a steel wheel, they put in a better flowing compressor wheel, and replace the ball bearing unit so there's little or no worries of that ever being an issue.

This is the route I'll eventually be taking when I scrape some money together.  I'm lucky that my cousin had a spare turbo off his old motor (he replaced the motor in his R-33 about a year ago) to give to me in the mean time.  When I give him back his turbo he'll probably be getting the GCG upgrade as well.

Removing and replacing the turbo was pretty easy - as long as you can remember where everything goes (use a camera if necessary), then the only problems you should have is accessing some of the nuts, bolts, etc, as the space is a little bit tight between the turbo and the passenger-side strut tower.

Best of luck with it. :blink:

Cheers mate. I'll let you no how I get on :)

Hmmm....

So with -

- GTT I/C

- Highflow

- 12 psi

- Fuji Catback

- HKS Panel Filter

- IEBC

- DFA

What soughts of power figures am I looking at there? Would it get 160 - 180 awkw?

Same as the above, but with a split dump and 1.1 bar = 200 4wkw.

:unsure: cheers :D

Bleed Valve. Piece of shit though

Obviously was! Cost you a turbo, me thinks! (sorry!)

First thing I did was ditch the Turbosmart bleedvalve (set at 10 but overspiked) and put in a Hybrid brand EBC. To be safe. Im running 12psi now (approx 11.8 actually is the top it gets to), but generally get off the gas when it gets to around 10psi.

With a hiflow with steel wheels, forget the low boost stuff. Thats for ceramic wheels. Hi / Lo settings should be 15 / 12 and that should be safe for the engine *with all supporting mods.

*GCG turbo, air filter, GTT 'cooler, full exhaust, EBC, SITC, fuel pressure regulator (or injectors), 14psi would surely be 200awkw, with a nice and safe tune.

My opinion only (worthless!!) =P

Im led to believe the GCG hiflow is best suited for optimal power/torque to be run at 15-17psi on a internally-standard RB25DET (use a EBC fellas!), can anyone confirm?

I would have thought running 12psi would be a waste on a hiflow'd turbo. Maybe talk to GCG and ask 'em?

10psi is too low tho for a hiflow steel wheel turbo (if you've got the supprting mods - which you have). Good for ceramic standard turbos but a bit of a waste on a modd'd Stagea!

Go 14psi, nice and safe tune on the PFC Alex, you've got the supporting mods as such, so it'd be perfect for everyday use - remember your right foot is the rEaL boost controller.

=) Brendan

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Could be falling edge/rising edge is set wrong. Are you getting sync errors?
    • On BMWs what I do because I'm more confident that I can't instantly crush the pinch welds and do thousands of USD in chassis damage is use a set of rubber jacking pads designed to protect the chassis/plastic adapter and raise a corner of the car, place the aforementioned 2x12 inch wooden planks under a tire, drop the car, then this normally gives me enough clearance to get to the front central jack point. If you don't need it to be a ramp it only needs to be 1-1.5 feet long. On my R33 I do not trust the pinch welds to tolerate any of this so I drive up on the ramps. Before then when I had to get a new floor jack that no longer cleared the front lip I removed it to get enough clearance to put the jack under it. Once you're on the ramps once you simply never let the car down to the ground. It lives on the ramps or on jack stands.
    • Nah. You need 2x taps for anything that you cannot pass the tap all the way through. And even then, there's a point in response to the above which I will come back to. The 2x taps are 1x tapered for starting, and 1x plug tap for working to the bottom of blind holes. That block's port is effectively a blind hole from the perspective of the tap. The tapered tap/tapered thread response. You don't ever leave a female hole tapered. They are supposed to be parallel, hence the wide section of a tapered tap being parallel, the existince of plug taps, etc. The male is tapered so that it will eventually get too fat for the female thread, and yes, there is some risk if the tapped length of the female hole doesn't offer enough threads, that it will not lock up very nicely. But you can always buzz off the extra length on the male thread, and the tape is very good at adding bulk to the joint.
    • Nice....looking forward to that update
    • Neg, the top one is actually for the front. The sizes are 18x10.5 +18 and 18x11 +32.   I measured many times but I'm sure I'll have problems as this is the thread for problems.
×
×
  • Create New...