Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Most times it will boil to you pay for what you get.

Buying a China set of golf clubs is no match for the original.

Its much cheaper and it may look the same but inside theres a vast difference.

For something as cheap as a oil filter why would you bother. On a POS car go for it. on a skyline your mad, keep telling yourself how many 7 dollar filters it costs to replace your engine and its likely not worth it even if it lasts for a couple of years. Its been said above no need to go over it again.

If you really want to save a buck switch from ultimate to premium unleaded and dont thrash your car. It will likely do less damage and you save about 5 bucks a tank.

  • Replies 53
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

I generally just buy genuine Nissan items and for $8.80 why would'nt you...?

I have heard the Ryco ones dont have a Valve to hold oil in the filter when the engines turned off..?

I also read about an oil filter that is Magnatized so as to attract and hold any bits of metal floating around inside the engine, that sounded like a good idea.

The oil filter you choose should always be the correct spec for your car and it's application.

The construction of the valvoline and ryco filters doesn't differ from factory and it's reflected in the price. Nissan $8.80 and ryco <$10 Valvoline normally the same.

Buy a turbo diesel filter for a Pajero and they cost upwards of $50 no matter if it's mitsubishi or ryco. Why? Because Diesel filters have to work far harder than petrol ones. The materials to meet factory spec. (as per the ryco) cost just the same. So do you want to use a diesel filter on your car if it will fit? No. The filter in the diesel does filter far better than the skyline one from nissan but, does so at the cost of oil flow. The diesel's oil system is designed with this in mind the skylines engine is not.

I would be greatly concerned however if the nissan factory filter cost $50 and the ryco was $8. This indicates missing bit's or cheaper materials used.

I did see some time ago a fairly comprehensive test of various filters offered including aftermarket so-called performance ones. Some times ones used just for 'track' or performance will not have the return valve or use a less fine filter material as it limits flow potential. You throw oil and filter away after the meet anyway. The very fine material that does get through may wear slightly more on the bearings over a longer time but, on a race engine that gets new bearings and rings often they don't really care. Ditto with filtration of the air, often they just use a foam sock if they even use anything at all.

While I'm on this point, it's not a bad idea if you have a serious horsepower car to change your diff, gearbox and engine oil straight after a night of drag racing or circuit day. You would not believe how quickly this sort of abuse 'ages' the oil. Under these circumstances throw away the 'change @ 5,000km' idea. Sadly people don't know any better, dispite being fussy about good oil and regular changes.

OMG!!! u guys change yah oil every 5000km, under normal driving conditions this should be under 6 months of driving. if u look lets say inside a nissan oil filter and a cheap $4 one, the differnece is the grills, i found that theres is more openings (for better flow offcourse) see for urself next time in the shops. (maybe different material filter as u go up in the performance filters)

as for all of us here, personaly i think its a waste if u pay anymore than 8 bux, we all use good oils, change them at the correct milage and time soo whats the big deal, its not like we got cats and dogs filtering through our cars. dunno whats the big deal, i never herd of a oil filter responsible for ruining a engine.

If you want u'r car to last, yes we change our oil every 5000 k's or 3 months. no compromise. I drag about every 3 to six months, and if lucky get about 8 runs in. I wouldnt think it would be worth changing oil every time i went down the strip.

If you want u'r car to last, yes we change our oil every 5000 k's or 3 months. no compromise. I drag about every 3 to six months, and if lucky get about 8 runs in. I wouldnt think it would be worth changing oil every time i went down the strip.

You are among the many who don't seem to know 'why' they change oil at 5,000kms.

Under full load the difference in wear compared to everyday driving is massive.

5,000kms is meaningless under 'race' conditions. There are plenty of variables but, one very good rule of thumb CHANGE YOU FRICKEN OIL AFTER RACING.

This goes for your diff and gearbox too under the same rationale.

Extra modifiers for the 5,000km limit include but, are not limited to ;

* dusty environments

* High temperature climates

* Increases in engine power. I find I am changing mine at around 3,000 -at the moment with 370rwhp. Not rocket science that one, however I meet people with more than 400rwhp and still think the factory (270rwhp odd) change intervals are applicable (very sad).

* Increased engine load

* Poor fuel mixtures due to larger profile cams or maps

* fuel type

Thats how you get 250,000kms + out of an original R32 GTR engine, gearbox, transfer case and diff.

Hope that clears things up for you a little.

I still think its quite funny that these people will spend mega bucks getting the best oil (which they don't understand the properties of) but are happy to look into saving a few dollars on an oil filter...

Fully sick bro... :mellow:

I do both I look around for good oil but at a good price, I use a rico filter and seems to be doing fine, ATM im trying Castrol Oil but im thinking about changing that as I have heard some bad reports about the whole magnateck thing so ill be once again looking for another oil, but why not look around for that bargan some of us live our lives on every doller we have, You finally have the car you dreamed about but you still are on the same crappy pay. When I have time in my Busy life ill buy difrent filters and cut them up and have a look but right now who cares because does anybody on the fourms have proof or a dead engine that has been killed from what you would call a crap oil filter?

Edited by 7yphon
I do both I look around for good oil but at a good price, I use a rico filter and seems to be doing fine, ATM im trying Castrol Oil but im thinking about changing that as I have heard some bad reports about the whole magnateck thing so ill be once again looking for another oil, but why not look around for that bargan some of us live our lives on every doller we have, You finally have the car you dreamed about but you still are on the same crappy pay. When I have time in my Busy life ill buy difrent filters and cut them up and have a look but right now who cares because does anybody on the fourms have proof or a dead engine that has been killed from what you would call a crap oil filter?

magnatech oil?

You might be short on cash with the whole performance car thing but, you keep buying cheap arse oil like that and things are going to get a whole lot more expensive for you real soon. At least put oil in within the factory reccomendation if you must go cheap mineral oil. Mind you with the sludge minerals leave behind you best flush the engine oil every change to be sure (there goes your saving).

If this costs too much for you then sell your car or get comfortable with the idea that sooner or later your money is going to run out when something breaks.

Welcome to performance car ownership the land of high maintenence costs! :P

7yphon - Alot of oil feed problems could be nailed down to oil and it's filtration. Oil feed problems cause head failures, oil pump failures, bearing failures.. the list goes on..

In short - if you're running your car hard and you're skimping on oil and filter quality then as Rev said - it's going to get real expensive real quick.

Cheap oil and filters are made for N/A lasers and excels, not turbo engines..

I will only ever buy a Nissan filter and 5W/40 or 5W/50 oil. I just bought Mobil 1 5W/50 when the supercheap sale was on and that was $52. $100.15 all up for the fluids/filter/cleaners/flushes and stuff I bought.

While we are on cheap stuff....

Make sure you use nissan spec coolant, it has the 10mg/100 benzo-thingo additive for corrosion/cavitation. There are other brands (castrol) who make this spec but, they are all about the same price (expensive).

Use other stuff and your motor is in for serious issues.

Topaz if that was your bill I'm not sure you ended up with the right coolant, from memory it's about $40 for 4 or 5L.

Topaz if that was your bill I'm not sure you ended up with the right coolant, from memory it's about $40 for 4 or 5L.

I bought ultra cool and 5L of demineralised water...I will have to check the benzo ratio when I get home....

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • looking for some help and maybe some insight on others experience with a new LSD. R34 GT ran and drive beautifully, but always alot of grip loss due to the open R200 rear end, so I just installed a new 1.5 LSD way into the stock open R200 for a ER34. Simple. Everything seemed right. I test drove for the first time this weekend. as I started to back out the garage the first time slowly with tires straight it sounded and felt like I had a loose or half disconnected drive shaft...that was clucking around loose and shaking entire vehicle, and making it feel like the trans clutch was spontaneously slipping then grabbing very roughly while just letting out pedal slowly. I backed it out went to pull forward with the same noise, shake and slip grab feeling with hesitation, I turned the tires to back out more and then pulled ahead some same thing but worst because of added wheel resistance (which that I expected) puzzled … pulling it back in checking everything over and finding nothing wrong, I tried it the next day. same thing, couldn’t believe how it shook everything again making a terrible noise and making it feel like the trans clutch was slipping and grabbing, but I got it out of garage into the driveway, got it straight, drove forward and then reveres a few times in a straight line everything shaking , causing what felt like clutch slip and grab every time, sounded like right behind front driver tire and I could feel it in the floor board with my feet,... worst right when beginning to let clutch pedal out to engage slightly, shuttering and sounding terrible along the way…I managed to slowly get down the road, babying it the whole way, once I was rolling (out of 1st) seemed to be better and between shifts, then clutch felt closer to normal…not slip/ grab etc., but back down to any stop, straight road or turning, same thing. Made no difference if all tires were straight or if I was turning. All other gauge read out correct. with in 2 miles as planned I reached the empty parking lot and performed the break in procedure that came with lsd, essentially to drive in a figure 8 a bunch.  Did this, binding chattering, and shaking the car the whole way. I drove it back home seemed somewhat normal once I was in straight line and past 10 mph or so, and I know it will “bind” on corners and cause some tires squeal when turning especially from a stop, but when I begin to move it still causes what feels like the trans clutch to slip and jerk badly as well as shaking the entire car, and sounds terrible, that I didn’t expect. I used the fluid they supplied with LSD kit and did the breaking, planning to change fluid as they suggest after breaking, but wondering will it get smoother or less aggressive with use? maybe a 1.5 is just too aggressive for normal road driving?   I have a LSD that I put in my 71 cuda when I restored it, with amazing smooth , quite yet effective results. Different style LSD but that ones a joy to drive. maybe expecting too much from this R200?
    • Join SAU NSW for a flame-grilled feed & flame-spitting cruise! Sunday 17th August 2025 3:30PM Meeting Archies Flame Grille Sylvania Waters 4:45PM Cruise Departure 5:15PM Arrival at Cape Solander Kurnell Meet Location: Archies Flame Grille Final Destination: Cape Solander Kurnell *Disclaimer* There will be a lead and follow car so no one should get lost. If you would like to attend or bring others along please put your name down and a +1 as numbers will be needed prior! This is NOT a race and we will all be adhering to all road rules. If this is what you want please come to one of our many track days. This is an official SAU:NSW event and will be run under a CAMS permit. One of the things that really sets our club apart is our commitment to being true enthusiasts. When on normal roads we strive to maintain good relations with the authorities as well as the public in general. When attending one of Skylines Australia NSW events please try to: • Be aware of surrounding environment and act accordingly. • Drive courteously on the state’s roads as a true enthusiast should. • Understand how important it is to maintain the good name of SAU NSW and thus, treat others accordingly. • Any misbehavior will not be tolerated and you will be asked to leave.
    • Yeah good luck out there! Will be good to see a mighty GTST going harder than the GTRs
    • i will be there 😁
    • Hello!  i just finished manual swaping my r34 skyline with a r33 rb20de box(RB71C)box  When the car is running it squeaks crazy loud and it was smoking from the gearbox area. The gearbox is fine it was tested. The clutch slave cylinder seems like it doesn't fully releases the clutch. I want to ask if this noise is from the throw out bearing or could it be the clutch assembly or disk att.xFliq87Gzw6kImKBVqDebXkj0fBqymk0JaYeP3_3SlM.mp4
×
×
  • Create New...