Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 97
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

hello there

I am interested in the rear battery cover (as on the pic below)

See image

Would you happen to also have the "screws"/"nuts" (as per the pic below)??

I live in Melb.Kindly quote me a price including shipping ;)

post-22619-1137990123.jpg

Edited by anexiole
chasing the center console lid if the spring clip bit is still in working condition???

cheers

$20.

Will you take $50 for the dash?

Okay.

Adrian

hello there

I am interested in the rear battery cover (as on the pic below)

See image

Would you happen to also have the "screws"/"nuts" (as per the pic below)??

I live in Melb.Kindly quote me a price including shipping smile.gif

Boot trim is sold complete. Thanks.

Adrian

can you get back to me on the indicator piece and the left shock, thanks mate.

also a price on the air-con condensor and radiator.

Edited by SECUR1TY
hey mate do you have the tailshaft yoke? I will come down from sydney and pick it up tomorow...

yep - come get it.

SECUR1TY - Indicator stalk $60 as posted earlier - shocks all sold now. Air-Con condensor and radiator.....$200

Adrian

sorry i was looking for it last night i have already picked one up sorry mate i needed it asap. I'm sure it won't be hard to sell though il let people know.

GL with the sale of the rest of your gear.

SECUR1TY - Indicator stalk $60 as posted earlier - shocks all sold now.  Air-Con condensor and radiator.....$200

is there any way you'd meet half way for this?

Whole car being stripped for parts - quick sale

Wollongong, NSW

All panels except bootlid damaged - mechanically great

Bought car for parts - lots left

Pickup only preferred

RB25DET, 5-speed, all driveline, some interior, 4 x standard S14 rims, dash components, headlights, tailights etc

ONLY contactable via email: [email protected]

Adrian

Do you have an undamaged front bar and what condition are your headlights/how much do you want for them?also the S K Y L I N E badge thing between the tailights,intact? how much?

Edited by BOVed

SECUR1TY - Half way to where mate? :)

Do you have an undamaged front bar and what condition are your headlights/how much do you want for them?also the S K Y L I N E badge thing between the tailights,intact? how much?

Front bar has minor damage - headlights are in good nick - they work and with a bit of turtle wax on the lenses, should come up fine. Boot garnish is available too.

Front bar $90

Headlights $300

Boot garnish $50

how much for the float inside the fuel tank

sorry mate - wrecked the car with the tank in it. :)

im from bankstown so anywhere between where you are and here

I'm sure we can work something out. You mean the radiator/condenser for the air-con yeah? Not the radiator??

Adrian

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...