Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys,

I just got my car back with new r34n1's fitted but i noticed that they are a lot laggier than the standard r32 turbos. Feels flatter and not as much power and doesnt come on boost fully till like 7k. Im still using stock ECU at the moment. Is the next best thing to do to get a power FC and get it tuned??

Also I was wondering if it is possible to get the standard ECU tuned to get a better power band? Current state of tune 3" cat back, apexi pods, bov and waiting for my front pipes and cat.

Can someone else give me some opinions apart from my mechanic recommending me to get a PFC and a tune?

Cheers

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/102516-power-fc-required/
Share on other sites

While remapping the standard ecu will be cheaper getting power fc will save hassels in the long run as every time u add a new performance bit it is easily retuned to suit. Though if u plan to do little with the car in future getting the standard ecu remapped would be a better way to go.

Thanks for that, but can the stock ECU get remapped so i can optimise these bigger turbs? As im not really going to do too much more to my car for a while. So I think remapping it would be a better option for me now.

Any ideas how much it would cost? and where is a reputable place to get this done in Sydney? :D

PhilGTR

Sorry to take this in another direction – BUT - I must be missing something. The R34N1s are not that much bigger than the std R32s (are they ?)

I have an R32 GTR with R34N1s and I'm on full boost by like 3500rpm (well almost :D)

I do have a PFC now, but also ran them with a Blitz Access ECU and they were fine. I don't think the PFC will be make THAT much difference – I'm no expert tho

Do you know the A/R rating of your N1s - are they .48 (some are .60 or .64 too I think) ?

Sounds like there is more to your problem that the ECU to me (shrugs)

Thanks for that, but can the stock ECU get remapped so i can optimise these bigger turbs? As im not really going to do too much more to my car for a while. So I think remapping it would be a better option for me now.

Any ideas how much it would cost? and where is a reputable place to get this done in Sydney?  :D

you could also try looking for a remaped ECU on ebay - I just sold my old Blitz ECU to some guy in the US for example

you could also try looking for a remaped ECU on ebay - I just sold my old Blitz ECU to some guy in the US for example

I was told that the r34N1's are between the HKS GTss and 2530's in size. Hmm im not sure of the A/R rating i will have to check.

I mean it probably does come on full boost at around 4k or so, but it just feels like a long flat spot from 3k all the way to 6k. on my old turbos its like a bit flat from 3k-around 5.5-6k then i feel a bit more in 1st. But now it feels like there not this extra power. Maybe im just used to it?? :D

Well - I have a VERY different experience

The trip from 3.5K to 8K is over in a matter of seconds – pulls very hard all the way (I'm pully 300awkw – and it's all action from 3.5k rpm)

NO FLAT SPOT AT ALL

that could be a tuning issue tho

Edited by itbmils

What mods have you got? apart from your PFC?

So you mean i just need to get my ECU remapped or get a PFC and get it tuned and it should be better? Do you know if restting the ECU will make any difference?

Edited by PhilGTR

My mods include

full engine rebuild (forged and balanced)

R34N1s (I have the .48 A/R exhaust housing – which are the small N1s :D)

head was ported and polished

Tomei adj cam gears

Tomei fuel pump

3.5" exhaust with split (HKS style) dumps

Apexi PFC

Apexi EBC

std 440cc injectors

std AFMs

std FMIC

I get 297awkw @ 18psi

with bigger injectors, cams and RB25 AFMs – I expect to get to 350awkw easy (may need a new FMIC too)

I had R32 N1s with the Blitz Access ECU and was getting ~240awkw

I'm still not convinced that the tune will make that much difference :D.

Even before I had the PFC fitted (after fitting the N1s) it was still not what I would call laggy

There's something wrong with your car if you are waiting until 7k to spool with R34 N1 turbos.

I think your stock computer is have a fit and you should really fit a Power FC. You certainly wont regret it.

I run GT2560Rs which in essence are similar to your N1's

Mine are also Noticeable laggier than the standard units, when really they should'nt be.

I also have retained the standard ECU for now, and like me this is what will be holding you back :D

Because your new Turbos will be flowing so much more air it goes beyond the Factory ECUs mapping capability, hence when you come onto boost 5000rpm for me, your AFRs take a big dive and prevent noticeable gains in HP being made

Mine is making 315rwHP on 14psi (No Boost control fitted but restrictor removed)

*Quick look at my Dyno sheet shows its making 315 from 5000rpm to 8000rpm revlimit, before 5000rpm AFRs are fine, as soon as it starts making Power (5000rpm) AFRs take big dive*

By simply fitting a PFC and keeping boost the same this should jump 40rwHP and improve driveablity by sorting out the AFRs.

It will be my next Mod.

You can acheive similar result from Remap of standard ECU, but if you make any more changes down the track a whole remap is required again which can get expensive.

Go the PFC :D

Edited by PSI_GTSII
get a pfc, it will help you find out if there is something else wrong with the car... which it sounds like there is

Thanks guys. its just that the turbos have set me back a bit of monies for now but i guess i will have to live with it for now until i can get a PFC.

I run GT2560Rs which in essence are similar to your N1's

Mine are also Noticeable laggier than the standard units, when really they should'nt be.

2560/N1's... and 2530's etc should take a big longer to build boost.

They are a bigger turbo <_<

Is they were GT-SS then they should very close to stock

Well it seems this extra lag im getting turns out to be some sort of hose leak i think. As i'm not getting full boost at all. On the standard boost gauage im getting only a bit above 0. My bov stopped blowing off again and engine started to cut out this morning on idle. Well its back at the mechanics again to see what it the problem. :rant:

Does this sound like a leak to u guys?

When I first got the car back on tuesday the bov wont blow off but they tightened some hoses and it was ok again. But this morning after i drove it to the workshop there seems to be some steam coming out where the turbos are, i dunno whats going on. not much power and it i can hear a bit of an air leak somewhere when im driving and its coming from the left side of the engine.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...