Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 103
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

  • 2 weeks later...
  • 4 weeks later...

i did have a bit of trouble adjusting at mallala - i noticed where i used to be able to stay in 3rd on the front straight - i'd have to shift to 4th with the 25 box. BUT now i just decided to start my entries earlier and clutch it in 3rd lol...

BTW - the reverse lights do work - i re-clipped mine in and they both work good as new.

r33 are 3.79 though, i might pull my diff out and suss what it is before i worry to much about ratio's :spank:, there are ups and downs of going either way atm so im a lil up in the air which i should buy (r32 box or r33)

edit: im pretty sure the diff in my car is only a s13 type so at a guess the ratio would be 4.08:1?. and i thought 4.3 were auto gearsets? :ninja:

Edited by toffy

nah all R32's were 4.38 auto and manual

ca turbo s13 were also 4.38

with a 20 with a 25 box I'd say you'd need the short ratio still

with a 25 motor and box or a stroked 20 the sr s13 ratio might be better

all depends on the track you go to most though to

cheers for that info, mainly i go to baskerville which is mainly a 3rd gear track first turn is right at the top of third (140ish?+?) you hit the apex at around 115-120 and bounce the limi and scando for the next turn which is about 95-100 at the apex which is a down hill section s bend thingy coming out of that is a short straight which leads into another left hander that opens up on the exit to an up hill straight to munji as fast as you can :laugh: , im worried that if i have a shorter 3rd i wont have the speed for a big enough entry in turn 1 which is vital in comps and the exit corner and straight you need just as much speed really :laugh: :laugh:

  • 2 months later...
  • 5 weeks later...
would be good if I had a part number for a 33 speedo cog though

O rly?

32743-30P20- (Just the cog on the end)

Now it'd be good if I had some money...

post-11389-1180679868_thumb.jpg

32744-35F00 - generic nissan

post-11389-1180680317_thumb.jpg

post-11389-1180680326_thumb.jpg

post-11389-1180680336_thumb.jpg

Edited by TonyL
i have a 33 box with the speedo drive... i need to get the navara drive lol... also gotta replate that plastic drive behind my dash.. cause its rooted

i've still got the name of that place in wingfield that can apparently make metal ends for the cable - haven't been there yet though because... well silvias are electric so i dont give a f**k :lol:

whats the chassis code for navara?

Note: i haven't read any of this thread :cool:

Edited by TonyL

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • There's plenty of OEM steering arms that are bolted on. Not in the same fashion/orientation as that one, to be sure, but still. Examples of what I'm thinking of would use holes like the ones that have the downward facing studs on the GTR uprights (down the bottom end, under the driveshaft opening, near the lower balljoint) and bolt a steering arm on using only 2 bolts that would be somewhat similarly in shear as these you're complainig about. I reckon old Holdens did that, and I've never seen a broken one of those.
    • Let's be honest, most of the people designing parts like the above, aren't engineers. Sometimes they come from disciplines that gives them more qualitative feel for design than quantitive, however, plenty of them have just picked up a license to Fusion and started making things. And that's the honest part about the majority of these guys making parts like that, they don't have huge R&D teams and heaps of time or experience working out the numbers on it. Shit, most smaller teams that do have real engineers still roll with "yeah, it should be okay, and does the job, let's make them and just see"...   The smaller guys like KiwiCNC, aren't the likes of Bosch etc with proper engineering procedures, and oversights, and sign off. As such, it's why they can produce a product to market a lot quicker, but it always comes back to, question it all.   I'm still not a fan of that bolt on piece. Why not just machine it all in one go? With the right design it's possible. The only reason I can see is if they want different heights/length for the tie rod to bolt to. And if they have the cncs themselves,they can easily offer that exact feature, and just machine it all in one go. 
    • The roof is wrapped
    • This is how I last did this when I had a master cylinder fail and introduce air. Bleed before first stage, go oh shit through first stage, bleed at end of first stage, go oh shit through second stage, bleed at end of second stage, go oh shit through third stage, bleed at end of third stage, go oh shit through fourth stage, bleed at lunch, go oh shit through fifth stage, bleed at end of fifth stage, go oh shit through sixth stage....you get the idea. It did come good in the end. My Topdon scan tool can bleed the HY51 and V37, but it doesn't have a consult connector and I don't have an R34 to check that on. I think finding a tool in an Australian workshop other than Nissan that can bleed an R34 will be like rocking horse poo. No way will a generic ODB tool do it.
    • Hmm. Perhaps not the same engineers. The OE Nissan engineers did not forsee a future with spacers pushing the tie rod force application further away from the steering arm and creating that torque. The failures are happening since the advent of those things, and some 30 years after they designed the uprights. So latent casting deficiencies, 30+ yrs of wear and tear, + unexpected usage could quite easily = unforeseen failure. Meanwhile, the engineers who are designing the billet CNC or fabricated uprights are also designing, for the same parts makers, the correction tie rod ends. And they are designing and building these with motorsport (or, at the very least, the meth addled antics of drifters) in mind. So I would hope (in fact, I would expect) that their design work included the offset of that steering force. Doesn't mean that it is not totally valid to ask the question of them, before committing $$.
×
×
  • Create New...