Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey any help with this is greatly appreciated. I'm driving an R33 GTS-T and currently my fuel economy is pretty bad with 350kms a tank. I'm currently running boost at 13.5 psi and I’m interested in switching to an electronic boost controller so I can also run the car at 7 psi and in turn hopefully increase fuel economy greatly. What are your experiences/opinions on this?

I'm also interested in any experiences with fuel economy when running on boost at 7 psi?

TIA ;)

I agree with everyone else, running 7psi won't help much.

From what I've read if you're getting bad fuel economy (and its not because of your heavy right foot) then you might need to check your o2 sensor in the exhaust is working as it should.

Fixxxer

350kms, that's awesome.....my record was 206.8kms for the F100....

The big question here is what sort of driving is it, 350 is no good on the highway, but not too bad for stop-start in traffic. I aim for around 350 - 400 around town and 600ish on the highway, that's on 18psi.

I have an EBC these days and it makes no discernable difference to the fuel economy.

Yeah... i've changed my sensor TWICE, and it didn't make a lick of difference. I'm not blowing any rich smoke or anything, sparks have been changed to iridium items recently too.

Highway driving gets me close to 400k's, gentle driving or not-so-gentle driving makes no difference in town... still get 350 TOPS.

No leaks that I can detect either. Fuel filter looks good and clean. MAF is working perfectly but I cleaned it anyway.

I've given up on trying to solve this one. =-]

Oh... I fill up 50L each time. So 50L gets me 350k's. 7km/L

A good tuning is very important to using good fuel efficiency. You might me using too much fuel right now but not making the power it should make. a good tuning should fix this problem and with a boost controller you should be able to adjust the boost and fuel level easily

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Yup. You can get creative and make a sort of "bracket" with cable ties. Put 2 around the sender with a third passing underneath them strapped down against the sender. Then that third one is able to be passed through some hole at right angles to the orientation of the sender. Or some variation on the theme. Yes.... ummm, with caveats? I mean, the sender is BSP and you would likely have AN stuff on the hose, so yes, there would be the adapter you mention. But the block end will either be 1/8 NPT if that thread is still OK in there, or you can drill and tap it out to 1/4 BSP or NPT and use appropriate adapter there. As it stands, your mention of 1/8 BSPT male seems... wrong for the 1/8 NPT female it has to go into. The hose will be better, because even with the bush, the mass of the sender will be "hanging" off a hard threaded connection and will add some stress/strain to that. It might fail in the future. The hose eliminates almost all such risk - but adds in several more threaded connections to leak from! It really should be tapered, but it looks very long in that photo with no taper visible. If you have it in hand you should be able to see if it tapered or not. There technically is no possibility of a mechanical seal with a parallel male in a parallel female, so it is hard to believe that it is parallel male, but weirder things have happened. Maybe it's meant to seat on some surface when screwed in on the original installation? Anyway, at that thread size, parallel in parallel, with tape and goop, will seal just fine.
    • How do you propose I cable tie this: To something securely? Is it really just a case of finding a couple of holes and ziptying it there so it never goes flying or starts dangling around, more or less? Then run a 1/8 BSP Female to [hose adapter of choice?/AN?] and then the opposing fitting at the bush-into-oil-block end? being the hose-into-realistically likely a 1/8 BSPT male) Is this going to provide any real benefit over using a stainless/steel 1/4 to 1/8 BSPT reducing bush? I am making the assumption the OEM sender is BSPT not BSPP/BSP
    • I fashioned a ramp out of a couple of pieces of 140x35 lumber, to get the bumper up slightly, and then one of these is what I use
    • I wouldn't worry about dissimilar metal corrosion, should you just buy/make a steel replacement. There will be thread tape and sealant compound between the metals. The few little spots where they touch each other will be deep inside the joint, unable to get wet. And the alloy block is much much larger than a small steel fitting, so there is plenty of "sacrificial" capacity there. Any bush you put in there will be dissimilar anyway. Either steel or brass. Maybe stainless. All of them are different to the other parts in the chain. But what I said above still applies.
    • You are all good then, I didn't realise the port was in a part you can (have!) remove. Just pull the broken part out, clean it and the threads should be fine. Yes, the whole point about remote mounting is it takes almost all of the vibration out via the flexible hose. You just need a convenient chassis point and a cable tie or 3.
×
×
  • Create New...