Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Been looking at upgraded turbos for my RB25 and have been noticeing most of them are only oil cooled... Now i know the stock turbo is oil and water cooled so why are most after market ones only oil cooled and is having the both better???

Also my mate has a T70 wet floating bearing turbo which he bought for his VL... Now ive seen this thing and its bloody big and he asked if i wana buy it... Im a bit put off as of the size.... i dont really need anything that big plus wouldnt it be pretty laggy? Once again its only oil cooled.....

Be great if people could help me out.

Cheers :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103511-water-and-oil-cooled-turbos/
Share on other sites

,27 Jan 2006, 04:29 PM]i think, it goes like this

Plain Bearing Turbos are Oil cooled only

Ball Bearing Turbos are oil and water cooled

Not 100% true as the turbo im using at the moment is water and oil, and its std bearing i guess it depends on the maker.

The T70 you mention sounds like a cheap ebay turbo made in china, i wouldnt recomend it. Get a GCG hiflow, what better value for money is there?

Look at all the garrett GT turbos, they are both water and oil.

Edited by grim32
and can someone elaberate more on the water and oil cooled question?

is it just the brand or is there more to it?

Its generally the series/cartridge etc of the turbo, and who made it.

Culmination of things. Not just brand.

Trust turbos ive seen a lot only using oil. I think they can go water also.

BUT thats not to say bush bearing do not use water at all, thats very much incorrect

The old "T" series Garrett cartridges (used in HKS also) allow you to use water lines, but are not "required"

eg: My old t04e, didnt use water, but there was provision to have it water cooled aswell if i made lines for it (which i didnt bother)

I would IMO prolong life if used

All of the new GT series turbos on offer from Garrett/HKS as all Oil + Watercooled.

End of the day, get a GT series turbo from Garrett or HKS, make sure its something with the new generation of GT wheels.

Not the old t0"X" wheels... and you'll be away.

What you need to do also is set a power goal as the first thing. Then we can all help you better.

As for specific turbo results... check the sticky thread at the top of this section. Has a LOT of upgraded results, which will almost answer your questions

cheers - ash

yer had a look through there and theres some pretty interesting stuff in there...

I really only want about 220rwkw or so... nothing spectacular and actually after reading the sticky about different turbos thinking of just keeping the stock turbo and just upgrade the ECU and other things and just grab 200rwkw or so...

one more thing..... the apexi SAFCii i have noticed is used in quite a few of the cars pushing 200+rwkw.... they arnt overly expensive but by the looks of it they seem pretty good????

What are peoples oppionions on them without rushing out and blowing $1200 on a PFC etc....

my mate has a new Emanage to suit my car, hes going to get back to me with how much he wants for it... with harness and tuneing software etc...

If you stick to the stock turbo, and use a S-AFC...

Once you get an exhaust and at the min a R34 side mount... or a larger front mount, fuel pump...

Then yeah, S-AFC will do a good job if your gonna stick to a stock turbo.

If you get a PFC i will give you more options, but if your happy with a bit less, for a good saving... then S-AFC is a good option.

But if you do plan at some stage to get a hi-flow (for like 240/250rwkw) then i would get the PFC and turbo now, tune it all in one hit and then just wind the boost down till you get used to its new state of power

hmmm to many options haha

already got a turbo back zorst, hks filter, blitz bov, and one of those boost controllers from the forums, fmic is in a month or so just after i get my interior done :D THEN i might just settle for the SAFC.... not sure but i have a feeling my car might already have an upgraded fuel pump..... might rip her out one day when im bored and see wat it says on it...

would a GTR fuel pump be a good and easy upgrade if im just wanting to push 200-220rwkw?? and would they be cheaper just using an OEM GTR fuel pump or just get a bosch 044 or something...

sorry if im sounding dumb but yer just wana take the right approch instead of buying stuff which wont be much good to me....

to support a larger turbo you need

fuel pump

aftermetk ecu (apexi powefc ideal)

larger injectors

z32 airflow meter

good tyres

good suspension setup

good cold air intake setup

at least 3" split dump with 3" front pipe and 3" catback (with hiflow cat)

boost controller

a good tuner

yer yer yer i know that stuff but im just talking now how ive seen 200-220rwkw using the stock turbo... was just wondering would it be possible with the following mods.

Fmic

turbo back zorst

CAI

apexi s-afc2

GTR fuel pump

12psi boost?

anything else?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, yes, every CU on the bus is available via the Consult port, but whether the scanner you are using is capable of talking to the TCU, the ABS/TCS modules, etc etc, is what is at question here. Many of them are only for engine codes. So, if you have one of those, you won't know if the ABS is having a bitch.
    • That's now. R chassis Skylines come from a time when the tolerance in the ADRs was a bit more....slack. My car, on 235/35-17, which is damn near the exact same size as the original 205/55-16, is pretty much bang on correct indicated speed across the whole legal range. That's demonstrated with constant speed run over 5km, and GPS speed. It's just the luck of the draw. My particular speedo head has to be the thing that is "calibrated" that way, because everything else (the diff ratio, the gearbox and the speedo drive**) are all same same as most other Skylines. **OK, so the speedo drive is a Navara unit to drive the R32's cable, not the electronic unit than an R33/4 would normally have with teh same gear on it. Otherwise, I applaud your OCD tendencies, and I would do the same if I needed to.
    • Not too sure, I believe the Nissan consult port does everything? Also just filled up the reservoir to full and the light is still on. The float seems to move up and down fine.
    • The speedo's can be very conservative, when my Mazda NC MX5 speedo is showing 118kph, the GPS, and a calibrated radar.... cop mate.....hits me at around 110kph +/- 1 or 2 kph, and that is on a 215/45 17, stock tyres size is 205/45 17 as well, so weirdly conservative with stock tyre size When my Commodore speedo red 116kph GPS had me at 110kph on 255/40 17, so again conservative Google says manufacturers need to set the speedo from 4 to 10% slower than actual road speed.....for safety.....and compliance  After doing some offset and clearance measurements to see what can fit the NC on 17x8 +40, without guard rolling or rubbing anything at my current ride height, I've decided that when my tyres are toast, I'm going to fit 225/45 17 and see where that gets me IRT actual speed of my speedo and GPS/radar From the online calculator I should be still be doing around 5kph under an actual 110kph when the speedo is showing 110kph My ADHD requires that when I'm doing 110kph on the speedo, that the actual road speed is actually really close to that, and not alot slower And going from 205 to 225 still keeps the car within the %/mm allowable in the NSW vehicle rules and regulations, which is nice, as long as I'm looking at the latest version that is.....LOL https://www.nsw.gov.au/sites/default/files/2021-02/RMS-13.464-Light-vehicle-modifications-Vehicle-Standards-Information-No-6-November-2013.pdf
    • Take the value it measured as, and pick the closest range available that is above the reading on the screen.   Also, no point just testing the coils. Read what has been said again. You need to test all your wiring, everything.
×
×
  • Create New...