Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok so i have a RB20 and wanting to run over 300rwhp with 20psi

I was stuffing around with coilpacks for ages trying to fix a miss but eventually gave up and have upgraded to a falcon coil pack.

But the miss is still there, even with a 0.55mm gap it still misses a fair bit under boost. When the boost is turned up to 18/20psi it misses of virtually all cylnders.

I have a Power FC and my tuner played around with the coils settings with datalogit but to no avail. I have changed coils/plugs/ignitors etc etc many times and none make a difference

I got my hands on a hand controller a few weeks ago and as the revs got towards the top end (when it starts to miss) the volts dropped on the hand controller read out (14.4 down to 13.2). My friend has a very similar setup to mine so i did the same on his and it stayed a constant 14.4v through the rev range.

So i changed the alternator to see if it was the problem, once again with no luck. Now im going to change the alternator belt as i have been advised that it may be slipping with revs but if this does not work im as a loss of what to do.

does anyone have any ideas about what could be my problem?!?

any help would be appriciated

thanks simon

Edited by Cerbera
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/
Share on other sites

14.4 is a little high for a warmed up motor.

Generally 14+ is acceptable for a cold motor however once the motor has warmed it will drop to approx 13.8v.

Mine under full load at high rpm will drop to ~13.3v.

I don't have any issues with coils breaking down.

But.. I'm not running any where near as much boost as you.

What plugs are you running?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1910411
Share on other sites

for you to be drawing some nuch current in the electrical system to drop the voltage like this you must a serious issue in the electrical system(it may not even be related directly to the ignition system but is related to rpm).

It might be worth checking the supply wiring to the ignition system poor conducts can brake down under load but still supply an electrical path when not stressed, plus the voltage you reading on pfc make be quiet different to the volt the ignition system is recieving

CHECK THE WIRING LOOM(as it could be a simple as bad supply wire)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1911300
Share on other sites

My suggestion is to do a leak dow test to eliminate rings, pistons and valves as the cause. In the old RB20DET we were running 225rwkw (302 rwhp) at 19 psi on standard coils and copper NGK's at 0.8mm. So you are not looking at anything extraordinary.

:ban: cheers :)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1911626
Share on other sites

ok to answer some questions...

i run bcp6es and bcp6e and they both are the same, might get my hand on a set of bcp7es and try them?!?

base timing is around 15 deg and the timing is a few degrees off pinging top end like a good proper tuner should do (around 13-15) :P

we did put more timing in on dyno but it just caused pinging and knock count was getting on the high side of just under 60

the power running to the ignitor was checked at idle but not under load... may have a check of this again under load

the rings/pistons and valves are assumed to be fine as there is virtually 0 blowbye from the engine plus the fact that the miss goes away if the plugs are gapped low enough...

plugs come out with all normal markings of a good working engine, maybe a tad rich but thats for saftey

grim32, i may give this a try. i shall talk to my tuner, datalogit is used to adjust correct?!?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1913222
Share on other sites

While it may not directly help your issue, make sure you check the real simple things.

I had a similar miss, only showed up under high boost. We replaced ignitors, coil packs, spark plugs so many times it wasnt funny. 4 months later we had it on the dyno (because I had been too lazy to get it properly checked) to try and solve the problem when my mechanic noticed under large boost, an injector o-ring was being pushed up slightly... enough to cause a leak and cause the miss.

An $0.80 part caused 4 months of pulling things on and off of heartache.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1913294
Share on other sites

While it may not directly help your issue, make sure you check the real simple things.

I had a similar miss, only showed up under high boost. We replaced ignitors, coil packs, spark plugs so many times it wasnt funny. 4 months later we had it on the dyno (because I had been too lazy to get it properly checked) to try and solve the problem when my mechanic noticed under large boost, an injector o-ring was being pushed up slightly... enough to cause a leak and cause the miss.

An $0.80 part caused 4 months of pulling things on and off of heartache.

That caused some serious hair pulling. If you have the car on the dyno have a good listen around the intake manifold, Nik's car made the slightest little whistle and it was only #6 injector that was leaking but caused a really bad miss. It's well worth a look.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1914104
Share on other sites

Your problem sounds very similar to mine when i installed external coils.

The car was fine off boost, ok up to about 5psi at partial throttle but as soon as i put my foot down i would experience what i could only describe as complete ignition breakdown. No acceleration at all and it happened instantly.

Long story short, i checked everything except the coils (as i bought them new and had seen the exact same model work perfectly on a CA and SR), swapped cas, upgraded fuel pump, ecu swap, ignitor swap, pulled the injectors and cleaned them, replaced all filters, the lot, no change.

In the end out of desparation i wired the stock rooted coils back in and the car was instantly better (but still far from perfect), so i ordered a set of splitfires, installed them and haven't had an issue since.

I think the problem will most definately come down to the coils. If it can be fixed by adjusting the dwell and firing time, great. If not then it may be worthwhile swapping in a set of stockers for a test.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1915756
Share on other sites

grim32, i may give this a try. i shall talk to my tuner, datalogit is used to adjust correct?!?

Yeah just talk to your tuner about how to do it, on the wolf its straight forward.

My car seemed to breakdown on 17psi at around 6-6500rpm, that was with standard coils. Put a new set of splitfires in and same problem. New plugs 7 heat range i think gapped to .6 and still no change. With charge time set to 4ms the problem disapeared, but was concerned about burning the coils out. So we set discharge to .6ms (it was 1ms before) and this allowed us to bring the charge time down to 2.4ms.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1915870
Share on other sites

Falcon coils use around 3.5ms charge and 0.6 discharge time.(Not sure the PFC will do that)

If your using EF Falcon coil packs then its waste spark and the discharge finds it easyest path and at higher boost thats the plug thats not under compression so it will miss,If your using 6 Falcon coils the Nissan module wont be upto it.

Many ppl run upto 30psi on stock coils so there must be a problem with the coils-ignitor-wiring if they miss fire under load.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/103874-unfixable-miss/#findComment-1923827
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • A realistic expectattion of how long it has to last also comes down to.... when do you think you will be banned from registering and driving old petrol powered shitters? It's 27 years since that thing was built. It probably rusted out 15 years ago. It was probably repaired and looked OK for another 10. If you do a similarish bodge job now, or perhaps slightly better with some actual rust conversion and glassing, then.... get another 10-15 years out of it, after which you'll only be permitted by the CCP to drive electric cars manufactured in their Shenzen zone anyway. 
    • Let me assume that the concern over a manual ECU is that the NeoDET that you have was an auto and has an auto ECU. That ECU will not be a problem, but you WILL have to Nistune it. And you would have to Nistune it even if you had a manual ECU, because the turbo ECUs will shit the bed if they do not have all the things that they were told they have to have, to be happy. The big one being the TCS CU, which you won't have in your car. Anyway, with an auto ECU (which I have running my originally auto NeoDET in an R32) Nistune allows you to put in a Stagea image which doesn't panic about the absent TCS, and allows you to override a whle bunch of other annoyances that would otherwise see the check engine light on 100% of the time. Also, you can't wind up the power very far on the stock NeoDET ECUs without Nistune, because the boost sensor gets in the way. Nistune allows you to push that problem much further up the dial. Do you even have the boost sensor with the engine? Without it, you are SOL and will need an aftermarket ECU (or to find a sensor somewhere, god knows where). I can't tell you what the wiring loom differences are in a 34. But what Duncan said above needs to be considered. When you say "loom", does that include the transmission loom? Because you will need to swap out the auto tranny loom for the equivalent manual loom, and get rid of the neutral/park start interlock (basically hot wire it).
    • I have had the r3c in for years now, maybe close to 7 years and it has never missed a beat, anyone can drive it. Super easy to drive around town, the hotter it gets does get a little hard but it holds the power easy as 
    • Shit thing to find eh? I guess the big issue is that whatever "fix" you do now, it might slow the rust down but won't fix it. I just wanted to add that in no way is fixing sheet metal in 3 dimensions the place to start with welding....that is a pro only job because its too hard to work out where things should be, let alone doing a clean enough job that it can look OK and still be strong too.  I needed to get a new rear quarter panel on the GTR and it took a pro weeks to get the old one off cleanly, new one on in the right place and looking somewhat like it should have with most of the previous connecting panels in place. Gluing a couple of bits of metal together with a welder in the garage is doable, but that is totally different to doing panel  replacement
    • This seems to be a very popular swap since all the turbo skyline prices went through the roof! I'll let someone more familiar chime in, but I understand that yes you probably want to swap the loom in to swap out the auto TCM stuff. You should not assume everything just plugs in either, you need to check at least the ECU wiring diagram for any differences at the plug at the left headlight and probably the ones near the ECU that join the dash loom too  
×
×
  • Create New...