Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

After rebuilding my engine and putting new cams in it etc... ive put adj cam gears on the exhaust and intake.

Exhaust was fine, fit fine and dandy but intake not going on so easy.. why? It doesnt sit centre and its just a sloppy fit the single bolt that holds it in place is was too long..... nothing seems to fit or even look like fitting.

What have I done wrong? :)

Or have I got the wrong cam for the gear? as in, do I have to buy a cam that not used with the vvt?

Cheers. :rofl:

Hi,

After rebuilding my engine and putting new cams in it etc... ive put adj cam gears on the exhaust and intake.

Exhaust was fine, fit fine and dandy but intake not going on so easy.. why? It doesnt sit centre and its just a sloppy fit the single bolt that holds it in place is was too long..... nothing seems to fit or even look like fitting.

What have I done wrong? :)

Or have I got the wrong cam for the gear? as in, do I have to buy a cam that not used with the vvt?

Cheers.  :rofl:

i had the same problem with my s1 rb25 u need like a collor or something to put bedind it. i had mine on a rb20 b4 hand and it didnt fit the 25

i had the same problem with my s1 rb25 u need like a collor or something to put bedind it. i had mine on a rb20 b4 hand and it didnt fit the 25

thats what it needs buy the look of it. So did you get the collor to fit it to your rb25?

No cam gears for VVT intake cam on RB25s only the exhaust but the factory VVT intake gear is ajustable anyway from behind the gear.

So why do they make an intake gear for an rb25 then? Or do you have to buy a different cam to use it?

So if a buy an aftermaket RB20 cam of the same spec it wil work no worries in my head? Cool!

But now after taking the vvt off I noticed that there is some adjustment in the back of the gear itself, maybe not be enough but if a take it to an engineering workshop I should be able to get some more adjustment out of it. That way a cam keep the vvt, that would work right? :P

yeah there is a fair bit of adjusyment in it but when I took it off it was already hard one way and im pretty sure I have to go a bit further that way :(

without sounding like Nismoid for a second.....

do a search .....

I did a seach and could fine the answer I was after <_<

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Can't you put the pistons to TDC and then do the valve seals? Or will the drop down too far to pull them back up?
    • One thing I can tell you is, do it properly the first time. If you encounter unexpected problems just let the car sit for a week or two if you have to get some other parts or figure stuff out.  I'd have said go and use as many OEM parts as possible but since you want to change the turbo later on a custom kit is probably the better choice. Since I have no experience with RB25 just compare parts diagrams and images before buying a line kit and it should be easy to see if it has everything you need. Amayama has very good parts diagrams and part number lists, that is what I used a bunch to figure out what I might need. And don't forget to plan ahead and possibly renew other stuff that's easy to get to while you're in there doing the turbo lines. Happy wrenching
    • Update 4:   Hi all, good news. Engine is running and all the gaskets and seals seem to be working as intended. No leaks so far, even the JB Weld seems to hold. I flushed out the old coolant a few times and put in fresh coolant, not Nissan stuff, I decided to try the Ravenol Protect FL22, they claim it works for a wide variety of JDM cars and the opinions on it by some people were pretty good. And it has the nice poison green color! And man am I glad I bought a coolant system tester earlier this year, vacuum filling works wonders on this engine. I can definitely recommend this to anyone still doing it the old school way. All you need is compressed air supply. Will have to do a small test drive as soon as I can, I removed the gauge cluster again as the tacho needle was still bouncing around a bit but it was much better than before already.  I also found some cracks on all 4 tires inner and outer sidewalls. Apparently these tires should 't be parked on for extended periods or be kept under 0 degrees during storage, which I did not know. Clearly the previous owner didn't look into those details either, he probably bought them just cause they are cool semi-slicks. I'm just wondering how tf I am supposed to reach 30-80 degree tire temperatures on the public road consistenly, these tires were never going to work for my use case. I'll probably order Continental SportContact7 ones as these are the best allround summer tire available right now and I don't think I'll need anything crazier for now. Do let me know if you have experience with various tires and which ones you recommend.
    • You have no idea how many goddamn boxes I received these past three months haha Most have been put to use by now though, luckily
    • Not going to pretend I didn't do a bit of junky work this time around, but mostly due to the fact that some things I am not willing to spend days fixing right now, like wiring. I try to do most things properly the first time around.
×
×
  • Create New...