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a few more things to add as in converting my car at the moment (not on a hoist unfortutaly)

make sure u install the brake pedal first and i did the clutch and i couldnt move the brake around enough to get it out so just ended up losening it off and unbolting the pedal itself and putting the manual pedal in the old bracket.

a realy realy super long extention is the only way u will ever get those top bolts on the gearbox out, and the starter motor in a pain for the top bolt to.

tommorow i get to take on the spigot bush...how fun

my gearbox cross memember bolted right up :S

yet i cant get the clutch to bleed

:rolleyes:

edit after 20 times or so it finaly bleed properly, now the tail shaft center bearing is screwed, should of cheaked better

yet i found out why the crossmember bolted up, looked at the tag from the halfcut, and it says the car was an auto, so it was converted in japan, so thats why it fit, someone modified it already.

Edited by GTScotT
  • 9 months later...
  • 4 weeks later...

More useful information (4 door conversion):

I used an S13 cross member for my conversion, bolted straight up

A thing to note, if you have a 4 door you will need to use the original Rear tail shaft section as the coup rear section is about 2 inches too long.

Both the NA RB20DE auto and RB20DE manual runs a smaller bolts between the 2 sections on the tailshaft. NA has smaller 10mm bolts and the turbo Auto and turbo Manual has 14mm bolts, also the plate sizes are different.

I ended up unbolting the Spline bolt on the front section and swapping the Plate over, so mine was turbo spec.

now i have a question, whats the best way of doing the manual loom? Cutting up an auto one? Which wires do i use at the Fuse box?

^^^

Wiring:

Ok so i got mine all sorted, The Reverse plug is the Front plug (NOT THE ONE NEAR THE SHIFTER)....just grab your old loom off the auto, cut all wires except the ones as mentioned in the first post (Hand drawn picture)....run them down to the centre plug (both wires on mine were green and black), trip them and test to see if the rear reverse lights come on when you select revers and thats about it.

the loop wire for the neutral is just on the same plug, loop the 2 wires over.

  • 6 months later...
  • 2 weeks later...
  • 2 months later...

Thanks alot man, This is really helpful.

I will be doing my R32 Manual conversion soon..Just not sure if its worth doing my self. I have never done one before, but I have basic mechanical knowledge, your info cleared alot of things up.

Only pain I can think of is the clutch pedal? are the R32 ones hydrolic? or cable? is it hard to do?

Thanks a bunch for sharing mate.

  • 10 months later...

Extra piece of info, you can use a S13 sr20 gearbox mount.

Its basically the same as a 32 item but backwards, ie the hump in the mount is on the other side so once you turn it round and install it backwards so the holes line up and the hump ends up being on the correct side..

You will know what im talking about when u see them.

  • 9 months later...
  • 8 months later...

Just starting a conversion from rb20det auto 4-door to rb25de+t with rb25det manual gearbox (yes can you choose any bigger a headfeck?).

To confirm I should just find an S13 SR20 manual gearbox crossmember for easiest mounting solution?

What do I need to get the tail shaft to be the right length?

What is the current best option for speed sensor?

Would it be better to bolt on the gearbox while it is out of the car?

  • 7 months later...
  • 2 months later...

Folks, one question regarding the pedals, I had a look and don't see how it's possible to take out and refit the pedals while the dash's still in.

Is there a way to put them while the dash is in?

Would love some answers today.

Cheerio

Grant

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