Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive just finished replacing my plugs with bosch fr8 dcx with a 1.1 gap.

The car is detonating all over the shop. runs really smooth under boost. But if you put foot in, it just starts going put put put and hesiitating.

weird as it runs really smooth apart from that.

Help?! I am over this car!

Do not use any conti plugs, use Denso or NGK brand. They are more suitable for jap made ride. Since you have already bought the bosch, set the gap down to 1, if detonate then down to 0.9 so on and so fore.

So i can pull these out and change the gap?

please explain. In the past ive hit up the old man who is a mechanic and he has given me a set and we are away.

Ill do that tmrw morning and see what happens. I;m guessing you need those filler guages thingymebobs?

conti plugs? what is that?

So i can pull these out and change the gap?

please explain. In the past ive hit up the old man who is a mechanic and he has given me a set and we are away.

Ill do that tmrw morning and see what happens. I;m guessing you need those filler guages thingymebobs?

conti plugs? what is that?

Yes, you need a feeler gauge and a long nose plier.

Conti plugs mean European brand like Bosch, voker or brisk.

Edited by Trex101

I've got denso iridiums IK16, set at 1.05mm, so whats the heat range of these plugs and are they ok for my car or do i need to change them? i was going to change them anyway but if these aren't what i should get then i'd like to know before i get new ones.

I've got denso iridiums IK16, set at 1.05mm, so whats the heat range of these plugs and are they ok for my car or do i need to change them? i was going to change them anyway but if these aren't what i should get then i'd like to know before i get new ones.

IK16 is about a number 5 NGK heat range plugs. IK16 may be too hot for your ride, choose IK20 (equal to NGK heat range 6 plug).

bosch wr8dcx for rb25det, any good? It sounds like it is breaking down under load.

I previously had NGK bcp5es in the car and they were good up until 5000rpm then powere flatened out and it seemed the car was held back by soething.

Maybye a vacuum line not hooked up properley?

Help!

r33 s2,

I had them gapped at 1.1 and they were a bosch pulg with a heat range of 8.

The guy at the service station got the specs out of book but obviously they are complete shit as car run better with ngk with a heat range of 5 and a 1 mil gap.

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks once again goes to SK, and those that backed up his opinions :(

Put some bcpr6es' in yesterday, gapped at .8, after running iridiums for 40K odd. Idle is now smooth as instead of the occasional misfire, and seems smoother right through the rev range. It also seems to run slightly cooler, although I haven't taken it for a long run to confirm this yet.

Just a couple of small questions -

when I put the new plugs in the idle dropped slightly. Yes, I currently have the (throttle) bypass valve disabled. The gap of the old plugs was .8 too. What does this point to?

Also, if anything, the car has slightly reduced power, however this could just be my mind playing tricks on me, given that it also feels smoother now.

My guess for both of these questions is that I may be able to get away with a slightly larger gap now.

Before changing the plugs, I was running at just under 12 psi, however the car was starting to hesitate and pop under full throttle at around the 3500 mark, so I dropped the boost to 10.5ish. I've never heard pinging on a boosted motor, but I can't say that I heard anything like pinging when this was happening(tho I'm not sure how audible it would be over the din of the motor and exhaust), which led me to the conclusion that it was more likely missing (due to sparks blowing out) moreso than pinging. would that be right?

So my question is this - what is the better option, re-gap the plugs or increase the boost again?

Edited by jezzerrr

hmmm....

What is the difference between a "BCPR6ES" and the "BKR6E-11"?

other then the gap difference, they are both copper plugs with the same heat range correct? I bought the BKR6E-11's after i found my local shop didnt have the normal plugs in stock.... however, the BKR6E's have the same number as the iridium plugs without the prefix, and were listend under the performance column. can anyone shed light on the diferences?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Look for broken wire or bad connector at the motor. Might not be it, but is worth starting there, as it is easy.
    • Hi everyone, I’m having an issue with my R32 GT-R. Sometimes, when the car goes over a bump or experiences some vibration, the 4WD warning light comes on the dashboard. When I check the code from the control unit in the trunk, it shows Code 19 – ETS Motor. However, everything seems to be working fine — if I turn off the engine and restart the car, the light goes away and everything functions normally. Has anyone experienced this before? Where should I start troubleshooting this issue? Thanks in advance!
    • I'm back from the dyno - again! I went looking for someone who knew LS's and had a roller dyno, to see how it shaped up compared to everything else and confirm the powerband really is peaking where Mr Mamo says it should. TLDR: The dyno result I got this time definitely had the shape of how it feels on the road and finally 'makes sense'. Also we had a bit more time to play with timing on the dyno, it turns out the common practice in LS is to lower the timing around peak torque and restore it to max after. So given a car was on the dyno and mostly dialled in already, it was time for tweaking. Luis at APS is definitely knowledgable when it came to this and had overlays ready to go and was happy to share. If you map out your cylinder airmass you start seeing graphs that look a LOT like the engine's torque curve. The good thing also is if you map out your timing curve when you're avoiding knock... this curve very much looks like the inverse of the airmass curve. The result? Well it's another 10.7kw/14hp kw from where I drove it in at. Pretty much everywhere, too. As to how much this car actually makes in Hub Dyno numbers, American Dyno numbers, or Mainline dyno numbers, I say I don't know and it's gone up ~25kw since I started tinkering lol. It IS interesting how the shorter ratio gears I have aren't scaled right on this dyno - 6840RPM is 199KMH, not 175KMH. I have also seen other printouts here with cars with less mods at much higher "kmh" for their RPM due Commodores having 3.45's or longer (!) rear diff ratios maxing out 4th gear which is the 1:1 gear on the T56. Does this matter? No, not really. The real answer is go to the strip and see what it traps, but: I guess I should have gone last Sunday...
    • 310mm rotors will be avilable from Australia, Japan, and probably a few other places. Nothing for the front can be put on the back.
    • The filter only filters down to a specific size. Add to that, the filter is AFTER the pump. So it means everything starts breaking your pump even if its being filtered out.
×
×
  • Create New...