Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

ive just finished replacing my plugs with bosch fr8 dcx with a 1.1 gap.

The car is detonating all over the shop. runs really smooth under boost. But if you put foot in, it just starts going put put put and hesiitating.

weird as it runs really smooth apart from that.

Help?! I am over this car!

Do not use any conti plugs, use Denso or NGK brand. They are more suitable for jap made ride. Since you have already bought the bosch, set the gap down to 1, if detonate then down to 0.9 so on and so fore.

So i can pull these out and change the gap?

please explain. In the past ive hit up the old man who is a mechanic and he has given me a set and we are away.

Ill do that tmrw morning and see what happens. I;m guessing you need those filler guages thingymebobs?

conti plugs? what is that?

So i can pull these out and change the gap?

please explain. In the past ive hit up the old man who is a mechanic and he has given me a set and we are away.

Ill do that tmrw morning and see what happens. I;m guessing you need those filler guages thingymebobs?

conti plugs? what is that?

Yes, you need a feeler gauge and a long nose plier.

Conti plugs mean European brand like Bosch, voker or brisk.

Edited by Trex101

I've got denso iridiums IK16, set at 1.05mm, so whats the heat range of these plugs and are they ok for my car or do i need to change them? i was going to change them anyway but if these aren't what i should get then i'd like to know before i get new ones.

I've got denso iridiums IK16, set at 1.05mm, so whats the heat range of these plugs and are they ok for my car or do i need to change them? i was going to change them anyway but if these aren't what i should get then i'd like to know before i get new ones.

IK16 is about a number 5 NGK heat range plugs. IK16 may be too hot for your ride, choose IK20 (equal to NGK heat range 6 plug).

bosch wr8dcx for rb25det, any good? It sounds like it is breaking down under load.

I previously had NGK bcp5es in the car and they were good up until 5000rpm then powere flatened out and it seemed the car was held back by soething.

Maybye a vacuum line not hooked up properley?

Help!

r33 s2,

I had them gapped at 1.1 and they were a bosch pulg with a heat range of 8.

The guy at the service station got the specs out of book but obviously they are complete shit as car run better with ngk with a heat range of 5 and a 1 mil gap.

  • 2 weeks later...

thanks once again goes to SK, and those that backed up his opinions :(

Put some bcpr6es' in yesterday, gapped at .8, after running iridiums for 40K odd. Idle is now smooth as instead of the occasional misfire, and seems smoother right through the rev range. It also seems to run slightly cooler, although I haven't taken it for a long run to confirm this yet.

Just a couple of small questions -

when I put the new plugs in the idle dropped slightly. Yes, I currently have the (throttle) bypass valve disabled. The gap of the old plugs was .8 too. What does this point to?

Also, if anything, the car has slightly reduced power, however this could just be my mind playing tricks on me, given that it also feels smoother now.

My guess for both of these questions is that I may be able to get away with a slightly larger gap now.

Before changing the plugs, I was running at just under 12 psi, however the car was starting to hesitate and pop under full throttle at around the 3500 mark, so I dropped the boost to 10.5ish. I've never heard pinging on a boosted motor, but I can't say that I heard anything like pinging when this was happening(tho I'm not sure how audible it would be over the din of the motor and exhaust), which led me to the conclusion that it was more likely missing (due to sparks blowing out) moreso than pinging. would that be right?

So my question is this - what is the better option, re-gap the plugs or increase the boost again?

Edited by jezzerrr

hmmm....

What is the difference between a "BCPR6ES" and the "BKR6E-11"?

other then the gap difference, they are both copper plugs with the same heat range correct? I bought the BKR6E-11's after i found my local shop didnt have the normal plugs in stock.... however, the BKR6E's have the same number as the iridium plugs without the prefix, and were listend under the performance column. can anyone shed light on the diferences?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It is a kunfine Android screen . Does anyone know the wirering diagram of the fuga ??
    • just an update to this, poor man pays twice  Tried sanding down the pulleys but it didnt do the trick. Chucked another second hand alternator in the na car which I got for free off my mate and its fixed the squelling. Must have been unlucky with the bearings.    As for my turbo car, I managed to pick up a cwc rb alternator conversion bracket + LS alternator for 250 off marketplace, looked to be in really good nick. Installed it , started the car and its not charging the battery.... ( Im not good with auto elec stuff so im not sure if this was all I needed to do but I verified such by using a multimeter on the battery when the engine was running and I was only getting 12.2v )   I had to modify the earth strap for the new LS alternator , factory earth strap was a 10mm bolt which did not fit the bolt on the LS alternator which was double the size so I cut it off , went to repco bought some ring terminals that fit, crimped it onto the old earth strap and bolted it up to the alternator , started the car and same issue. Ran like shit and was reading 12.2 at the battery.  For a "plug and play" advertised kit thats not very plug and play but alas.  My question is , am I missing something ? Ive been reading that some people recommend upgrading the stock 80 amp alternator fuse to a 140 amp but I dont see how that would stop the alternator charging especially at idle not under load.  Regardless ive pulled it out and am going to get it bench tested by an auto elec tomorrow but it would be handy to know if ive missed something silly or have done something wrong.   
    • My wild guess is that you have popped off an intake pipe....check all of the hoses between the turbo and the throttle for splits or loose clamps.
    • Awesome, thanks for sharing!
    • To provide more specific help, more information is needed. What Android screen? What is its wiring diagram? Does the car's wiring have power at any required BAT and ACC wires, and is the loom's earth good?
×
×
  • Create New...