Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I want my car to run mid to high 12s. Heres my plan:

Trust V-SPL coola 600x270x76

K&N pod with cai

Full stainless 3" exhaust including dump

s-afc

boost at 12-13psi

255 street tyres

everything else stock

Will that be enough? I may also add a heavy duty clutch if I need it. At the moment the only mods I've got are a cat back zorst and k&n pod and best so far is a 14.307@98mph on 205 tyres at normal inflation.

What hope do I have?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/
Share on other sites

With those mods you want you should get about a 13.2?

Youll need a bigger turbo, T3/4 or TO4 should do the trick with a larger fuel pump and fuel pressure reg. Dont run huge boost due to high compression in 33's.

Z32 AFM

550cc injectors

reduce the pressure in your rear tyres.

Knock your timing to around 18 degrees.

Run very good fuel 100+RON

Make sure tuning is spot on.

That should get into the 12's if you know how to launch well.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-166559
Share on other sites

Mate,

Check out my 13.4 'how to' thread. Do what I did. It will cost less and if you add the 255 tyres (I'd go simex to get more traction for your $$$) you might crack the 12's without the S-afc.

If you can get the 60ft down to 1.9 a 12.9second pass is on the cards if the car is a carbon copy of mine. Think about it 12sec pass without any extra fuel management.

here is my thread about the 12sec. pass.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9445

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-166624
Share on other sites

Originally posted by rev210

Mate,

Check out my 13.4 'how to' thread. Do what I did. It will cost less and if you add the 255 tyres (I'd go simex to get more traction for your $$$) you might crack the 12's without the S-afc.

If you can get the 60ft down to 1.9 a 12.9second pass is on the cards if the car is a carbon copy of mine. Think about it 12sec pass without any extra fuel management.

here is my thread about the 12sec. pass.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...=&threadid=9445

I checked out that thread... the reason for starting this one :) . Over your setup I'll have a full zorst, pod with cai, safc, 3psi more boost, and bigger tyres... minus the flywheel and pineapples. That should be worth more than half a second right???

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-166674
Share on other sites

Originally posted by riggaP

I checked out that thread... the reason for starting this one :D . Over your setup I'll have a full zorst, pod with cai, safc, 3psi more boost, and bigger tyres... minus the flywheel and pineapples. That should be worth more than half a second right???

I have a full exhaust, the turbo to cat is thermo wrapped.

The Pod isn't any better than the K&N panel filter I have.

There are plenty of guys with a S-afc, more boost and big tyres and such who don't even crack a high 13, let alone a mid 13. What you are proposing dozens of people have already done and have not achieved even 13's let alone 12's.

The pineapples are a 'must have'.

The flywheel alone is worth 4 tenths.

The larger intercooler might hinder your 1/4 mile time if you are using the stock turbo, unless its rated to 300HP or just under. Besides I don't think you need to spend the money there to get the 12's your after.

Have fun trying, I know I always do.:)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-166729
Share on other sites

OK so basically with the setup above plus pineapples, light flywheel, high flowed turbo, slicks, all professionally tuned, and with me learning to launch it properly, 12s are possible.

A few quick questions,

rev210: why the pineapples? You say pods arnt any better than panel filters. So why is it that almost any hi po car in magazines use pods not panels?

meggala: did you shave almost a second off by just having good tyres/suspension setup? Do you recommend hard or soft suspension?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-167909
Share on other sites

Originally posted by whatsisname

Hey Rev, out of interest what yr model is your GTS25t?

Matt - he has a 1995 model. I swear the 1995 ECU's have different maps. When I run mine up on a dyno I'll try the 1995 and the 1993 ECU's I have and compare.

I found a web site in Japan that quoted all the different firmware updates for the nissan ECU's, and just in the R33 GTS-t's there is about 7 different versions !!!! But they didn't say what the differences were :D

Rev210 - a bit off topic, but did you wrap your front/dump pipe in thermal wrap while it was still on the car, or was the pipe off when you did it??? I'm thinking about doing mine and I just hope I don't have to take the damn thing off to do it :)

J

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10443-i-want-12s/#findComment-167962
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • perhaps i should have mentioned, I plugged the unit in before i handed over to the electronics repair shop to see what damaged had been caused and the unit worked (ac controls, rear demister etc) bar the lights behind the lcd. i would assume that the diode was only to control lighting and didnt harm anything else i got the unit back from the electronics repair shop and all is well (to a point). The lights are back on and ac controls are working. im still paranoid as i beleive the repairer just put in any zener diode he could find and admitted asking chatgpt if its compatible   i do however have another issue... sometimes when i turn the ignition on, the climate control unit now goes through a diagnostics procedure which normally occurs when you disconnect and reconnect but this may be due to the below   to top everything off, and feel free to shoot me as im just about to do it myself anyway, while i was checking the newly repaired board by plugging in the climate control unit bare without the housing, i believe i may have shorted it on the headunit surround. Climate control unit still works but now the keyless entry doesnt work along with the dome light not turning on when you open the door. to add to this tricky situation, when you start the car and remove the key ( i have a turbo timer so car remains on) the keyless entry works. the dome light also works when you switch to the on position. fuses were checked and all ok ive deduced that the short somehow has messed with the smart entry control module as that is what controls the keyless entry and dome light on door opening   you guys wouldnt happen to have any experience with that topic lmao... im only laughing as its all i can do right now my self diagnosed adhd always gets me in a situation as i have no patience and want to get everything done in shortest amount of time as possible often ignoring crucial steps such as disconnecting battery when stuffing around with electronics or even placing a simple rag over the metallic headunit surround when placing a live pcb board on top of it   FML
    • Bit of a pity we don't have good images of the back/front of the PCB ~ that said, I found a YT vid of a teardown to replace dicky clock switches, and got enough of a glimpse to realize this PCB is the front-end to a connected to what I'll call PCBA, and as such this is all digital on this PCB..ergo, battery voltage probably doesn't make an appearance here ; that is, I'd expect them to do something on PCBA wrt power conditioning for the adjustment/display/switch PCB.... ....given what's transpired..ie; some permutation of 12vdc on a 5vdc with or without correct polarity...would explain why the zener said "no" and exploded. The transistor Q5 (M33) is likely to be a digital switching transistor...that is, package has builtin bias resistors to ensure it saturates as soon as base threshold voltage is reached (minimal rise/fall time)....and wrt the question 'what else could've fried?' ....well, I know there's an MCU on this board (display, I/O at a guess), and you hope they isolated it from this scenario...I got my crayons out, it looks a bit like this...   ...not a lot to see, or rather, everything you'd like to see disappears down a via to the other side...base drive for the transistor comes from somewhere else, what this transistor is switching is somewhere else...but the zener circuit is exclusive to all this ~ it's providing a set voltage (current limited by the 1K3 resistor R19)...and disappears somewhere else down the via I marked V out ; if the errant voltage 'jumped' the diode in the millisecond before it exploded, whatever that V out via feeds may have seen a spike... ....I'll just imagine that Q5 was switched off at the time, thus no damage should've been done....but whatever that zener feeds has to be checked... HTH
    • I think Fitmit had some, have a look on there (theyre Australian as well)
    • Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily. 
×
×
  • Create New...