Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

I've just got myself a head unit to replace the stock jap one (no more 90.0 FM limit!) and would like to replace the front and rear speakers (fronts are missing, rears have child restraint bolts through them) and wanted to confirm sizes. Looks to me that the rears are standard 6x9's and the fronts are standard 6's?

Correct me if I'm wrong and let me know anything I should look out for when selecting speakers.

P.S. I'm not a huge stereo person so these speakers will constitute my entire setup =)

Lastly, I was told I'll need an antenna convertor for the head unit? Confirm/Deny?

Edited by ActionDan
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/104446-seires-i-r33-stock-speaker-sizes/
Share on other sites

As per the FAQ :D 6.5" speakers should fit front and back. Depending on the depth of the speaker you may need a spacer.

Antenna plug is usually required, but not always. They are about $15 and readily available from most audio / auto stores.

*Slaps 4head* My bad for not reading the FAQ =\

The rears look to be a none circular design, (I thought 6.5" were a circular shape rather than the typical oval) I know I should just get out there and take the speakers out and look but it's too hot =D What are people putting in the rears?

  • 2 weeks later...

Installed head unit tonight, no adapter for Antenna needed. Damaged a speaker though so will be replacing those very soon =D Look out eBay!

P.S. Rear's are indeed circular and appear to have required adapter plates =)

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So for the wide band is a Bosch 4.9 correct for the Link G4+ along with a Can bus? Just get the Link gear or is generic ok too? Eg here: LINK LINK DIGITAL WIDEBAND CAN MODULE WITH BOSCH 4.9 SENSOR : KYP Performance House  
    • Bit difficult to follow. Have a look below and see what the standard R32 layout was like. Note there was a restrictor in place immediately before "turbocharged pressure control solenoid" that, if removed, magically got you 1 bar boost.
    • I might be way off the mark here.. there must be a T junction under the manifold. That takes manifold pressure through a check valve prior to the T, one side splits out to this bleed off orifice, the other straight to the wastegate actuators. 
    • Carrying out some engine due diligence before my first drive in a 260RS that has been in storage for 10+ years, and found two lines that are susposed to be plumbed into the boost control solenoid. One of the lines (the wastegate boost supply line) to actuate the gates, had a bolt in one end blocking it. The other line (main boost signal line) from the very rear of the intake manifold (RB26DETT) and runs up to the boost controller had this pill in the end of it as seen in photos. Other than the obvious (T28 Ceramic turbos might well be cooked)  Can anyone shed any light on if there is any validity at all with this mod, bleeding a constant fixed rate of manifold boost pressure off through this 3mm hole?  Is it deliberate?  Was this a 90s Jap mod done to RB26's? Or has someone just fitted this without any idea of what happens to ceramic T28s if they are not gate controlled?    
×
×
  • Create New...