Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

beer baron - $250 For the RC

randy - Ive got many witches hats we can use from my job and Homebush isnt the best option, im out there at least once a week riding the new skatepark, everywhere is patrolled by rent a cops.........I dunno just a thought.....im cool with where ever

  • Replies 158
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

Yep... there is a bloke from the canberra rc drift forums who is in lane cove. He's organising for thurs/fri night (i'm working till 7.30PM those nights).

He mentions that he has "track material". I will try and contact him and the sydney people on those forums and possibly organise to go to lane cove and meet up. Would be good!

beer baron - $250 For the RC

thanks for the offer mate, but i'm not that hard up! just thought i'd put it out there. just the ball race kit and the 2 speed tranny cost more than that lol.

have fun with the rc sliding. i just love doing nice doughies... haha, and big powerslides are pretty good too. it has a nice carbon disk brake on it now too. good for doing a little lock up into turns, then hard on the gas to get all four smoking/sliding... hmm maybe i should dig it out.

Randy - sorry about that mate, I havent been up thatend of asquith for ages.

U didnt go to the bowling club near storey park did u?(the new one?)

Ill hve a look in a few mins - gotta head out that way now!

oh, i used to work at olympic park and quite a number of times we used to see people in P5 racing them - i guess if you inform the security they'll be cool?

dunno!

i bought a nitro car from hobbyco around a month ago..

i got the one with the wrx shell though :(

its got a 15 size nitro engine and its pretty quick.. ive always wanted to see it drift though...

mines a bit dirty, i took it through a dirty road to see it do some sliding.

it went sideways into a gutter and broke the bracket for the exhaust. ive got a cable tie holding it in place till i make another one.

Randy - Sorry to stuff you around dude, the old one I was reffering to at Asquith near Mills Park - has just been demilished. Its all fenced off and theres now a construction site. sorry mate, I should have checked it out before opening my mouth ;)

Chris: No worries man! My lady was the one getting pissed off, not me =-]

Steve: Wicked! Sunday in a week or two sounds like a go.

Security: You can adjust your fuelling, there should be an idle screw, and a mixture screw. I beleive your glow plug should sit around 100-120 degrees celcius... so possibly yours is running quite cold with that extra fuel going through. Same thing as getting the AFR's right on a PFC I guess... once you lean it out a little, you'll get heaps more gogo!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Increasing overlap will bring the torque down earlier (and make your idle sound sick lol). Worth a shot (if you dyno time) to experience a bit (providing you are confident your valves won't kiss your pistons). Is to just take off 5 degrees across the boosted area of the map, and then retard the exhaust cam let's say, 3 degrees at a time and then overlay all the runs with VCT on all the way and VCT off as soon as you make positive pressure. Ideally you would have a total of 6x overlays to looks at 0 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve 0 exhaust & VCT on all the way -5 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -5 exhaust & VCT on all the way -10 exhaust & VCT off once manifold pressure is +ve -10 exhaust & VCT on all the way Just leave your O2 wideband closed loop on for all of the boost area & RPM, and hopefully there isn't too much fuel correction needed and the Haltech is fast enough to compensate (I do this, then apply the correction to the main table). Getting that overlay data should give you a good indication of what to aim for.
    • So, my main limitation here is that the car does not have an oil pressure sensor by default, just a switch. As part of my tune I bought an oil pressure sensor upgrade so I now have access to oil pressure levels and logging rather than just the boolean behaviour of the switch but this means I need to use the tuning app to display this value. So, this rules out using any other app on the iPad. The app will also flash when pressure drops which is a nice feature. I have replaced the centre screen with an Android one, which is awesome for Android Auto, but I think it might be too far away and out of my line of sight. I might add some gauges to it this weekend and just see. I guess if its just temp and oil pressure I can make them massive! 🤣  
    • This is what the look like normally. Except we only got the 2 doors locally
    • Back pressure is not really a function of the exhaust itself, but the turbine/housing. So the question/point remains valid. I would be fitting an EMAP tapping point and seeing what is going on in the exhaust manifold before committing to throwing boost at it. Flow. No intercooler is actually rated for continuous operation at any power level wrt temperatures, as they are no actually capable of shifting the required amounts of heat on a continuous basis. They get hot during a pul, then dump some of that heat into the external air (and some back into the internal air) during off load moments/periods). You probaby do need a bigger core, given the power level you're already at is somewhat above the "rating" of the cooler. Put pressure tapping points either side of the core (which possibly you already have, if you have a boost source near the compressor outlet and tapping near the throttle for existing purposes) and report on delta P across the core.   I haven't done the mass flow calculation to see where you would be sitting on the compressor map at the ~450is rwkW level we're talking here, but if you look just at the PR you're running at, which is ~2.8-2.9, then you have a really really wide swath of the compressor map to run in, and so long as you were making between about 45-75 lb/min of flow, you should have really good comp efficiency, with the ideal being betweem 55 and 65. I can't see the need to shift drastically on the map to get better results.
    • Welcome 🙂 The ER34 wheels and slight lowering suit the R33 sedan really well. I'm firmly in the 'keep it stock, at least on the outside' camp.
×
×
  • Create New...