Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

well i dont kno anything about these and what i have read is that they are capable of some serious hp. when would boost come on approx? hit full boost? etc i kno this will vary due to mods but lets say for a fairly modded gtr....

i would assume these to be around the 400hp each mark ?

if they are, then assume them to spool up @ full boost 1.3bar ? around the 4800-5000 rpm mark in 4th, if not later.

Which means you wont get full boost in 1st on a 2.6 rb. You will get full boost in 2nd at about 6500rpm, and maybe around the 5500rpm mark in 3rd

Try it and see how you go

i would assume these to be around the 400hp each mark ?

if they are, then assume them to spool up @ full boost 1.3bar ? around the 4800-5000 rpm mark in 4th, if not later.

Which means you wont get full boost in 1st on a 2.6 rb. You will get full boost in 2nd at about 6500rpm, and maybe around the 5500rpm mark in 3rd

Try it and see how you go

it cant be that bad.... no way. that some serious lag lol theyre not that big.. they rate at 380 i think.

y does everyone go for trust old skool turbo designs for?

hasnt anyone heard of "ball bearings" yet :(

trust are the lower class of turbos i reckon, and garrett stuff like the 2560r's etc are heaps better options than these sort of turbos.

trust stuff seems to be soo cheap and i wonder y :P

p.s. no this isnt a dig at mr mad, only the turbos he has mentioned

You HAVE 2530's ??? They are what your swapping for???

You have the best...why back trade...great street/circuit turbo...hell some really crazy guys use these in drag GTR's running low 10's....They have obviously lost their marbles.

Yeh, why run 10s with the 2530s when if you just bolted on the T618z you would easily run 9s, and be the first in Aus to do it with low mount turbos ;)

Its his road car Roi Boi

why run 9's in a Nissan GTR when you run 7's in your twin T88 torana GTR

first he'd have to own a 7 sec twin T88 Torana

I like his chances of 9 second with T618z more  :lol:  :)

Is this guy not "the" MR MAD?...if he's not he can have the laggy cops...and if he is id like to see his car.

Is this guy not "the" MR MAD?...if he's not he can have the laggy cops...and if he is id like to see his car.

yes i was with my brother, who owns mr mad, the silver twin turbo'd v8 6 second pro street torana which just happens to be front cover of the current street machine magazine

:P:):D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I neglected to respond to this previously. Get it up to 100 psi, and then you'll be OK.
    • I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory.   However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine.   Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.
    • I myself AM TOTALLY UNPREPARED TO BELIEVE that the load is higher on the track than on the dyno. If it is not happening on the dyno, I cannot see it happening on the track. The difference you are seeing is because it is hot on the track, and I am pretty sure your tuner is not belting the crap out of it on teh dyno when it starts to get hot. The only way that being hot on the track can lead to real ping, that I can think of, is if you are getting more oil (from mist in the inlet tract, or going up past the oil control rings) reducing the effective octane rating of the fuel and causing ping that way. Yeah, nah. Look at this graph which I will helpfully show you zoomed back in. As an engineer, I look at the difference in viscocity at (in your case, 125°C) and say "they're all the same number". Even though those lines are not completely collapsed down onto each other, the oil grades you are talking about (40, 50 and 60) are teh top three lines (150, 220 and 320) and as far as I am concerned, there is not enough difference between them at that temperature to be meaningful. The viscosity of 60 at 125°C is teh same as 40 at 100°C. You should not operate it under high load at high temperature. That is purely because the only way they can achieve their emissions numbers is with thin-arse oil in it, so they have to tell you to put thin oil in it for the street. They know that no-one can drive the car & engine hard enough on the street to reach the operating regime that demands the actual correct oil that the engine needs on the track. And so they tell you to put that oil in for the track. Find a way to get more air into it, or, more likely, out of it. Or add a water spray for when it's hot. Or something.   As to the leak --- a small leak that cannot cause near catastrophic volume loss in a few seconds cannot cause a low pressure condition in the engine. If the leak is large enough to drop oil pressure, then you will only get one or two shots at it before the sump is drained.
    • So..... it's going to be a heater hose or other coolant hose at the rear of the head/plenum. Or it's going to be one of the welch plugs on the back of the motor, which is a motor out thing to fix.
    • The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading.   As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!
×
×
  • Create New...