Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

i have 9 rb30's most of them I have got for free or under $100 dollars!!! You just have to wait for them to come to you, its like when you don't have a missus all the ladies are not interested but when you do have a girlfriend a girl that you have loved for 10 years comes up and says she likes you(damn), if you appear deperate the rb30's will be hard to find let them land in your lap is my experience!!!hahaha

Just do it, there arent to many circumstances where I would recommend against a rb30 and for you inteded purposes you will love the 3rd gear power burns!!!!!

  • Replies 52
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Top Posters In This Topic

Posted Images

When too much torque is never enough.......

You can always de-tune a motor. It's a far better way to go than having to tune harder to get the same power. Rb30 would be quite easy, just pull some timing in the right spots hey presto you have the curve you can live with.

I so far have not seen any posts in years about how easy it is to tune power 'out' of a motor on purpose. So many people tune the hell out of their engine first and then struggle to get the thing to stay on the road under throttle. Your right foot is also a wonderfull power and torque controller, I call it the first line of traction control.

That makes sense...but seriously, isnt it like buying a 30 tonne crane to lift the engine out of the car? Sure it will do it with ease, but the initial expense only not to use what you have built/bought to capacity????

So if you wind igntion out of the engine so that its a bit flatter and more driveable...whats the difference between usng the available ignition and getting the power out of a 2.5L???

As for right foot, unfortunately mine isnt engaged to my brain, so whilst torque may win races, my experience of a few cars i have been in also means it fries tyres...so somewhere/somehow there must be a compromise.

I think we all need to remember that primarily we are driving road cars here...

...and im not trying to say RB30s arent ay good. Its just that from what very little experience i have with them is that its the torque that everyoenis chasing that makes them break traction...i dotn understand why the opposite is generally claimed. Take a 230rwkws RB20 that hooks up fine, and either a 180rwkws RB30 or 220rwkws RB30 and they seem more willign to break traction

If you find its too savage another method to prevent wheel spin is to take advantage of the torque and drop a higher diff ratio in it.

There's plenty to choose from from VL style ratio's right up through the 3.7's, 3.9's 4.08, 4.11, 4.363 and also 4.6

Here in Adelaide RB30's are everywhere for ~$100-$200.

I have 2 sitting in the shed.. One has a bad gudgen but in otherwise perfect condition.

Just as a comparison.. Tractive effort.. Torque..

Mine making ~190-200rwkw has the same tractive effort as an Rb25 making 313rwkw, being ~390-395nm.

An Rb30det making ~312rwkw makes ~540nm. Huge difference.

There appears to be one downside with the rb30det... If you plan on running the stock exh. manifold expect your rev range to be limited and power to begin dropping off over ~5500rpm.

It would hopefully also pick up fuel economy... Possibly.

Since the tune and new clean injectors I'm getting awesome fuel economy in the order of 10.6L/100km's.. Just the injectors and a new o2 sensor prior to the tune saw 11.1L/100km's.

I personally think the diff solution is a bit of a bummer...

Piston speed to road speed, raise the ratio high enough and it will have the same torque getting to the rear wheels as an rb25 or even rb20 maybe. :S

Fairly pointless, especially if you stuck with the stock exh. manifold that restricts rev's a little. :D

the rb30was a gift .... its just the simplist bang for buck and has all but superceeded the car it was released in as far as parts available and development gains ...

there is a massive aftermarket following much cheaper per HP gained Vs dollar than any of the other Rbs as far as bolt on parts now and i believe because of this!!!!

i have had all of them now and although the rb26 is tuff when fresh i dread working on it as apposed to the old 3 litre dime a dozen....

That makes sense...but seriously, isnt it like buying a 30 tonne crane to lift the engine out of the car? Sure it will do it with ease, but the initial expense only not to use what you have built/bought to capacity????

So if you wind igntion out of the engine so that its a bit flatter and more driveable...whats the difference between usng the available ignition and getting the power out of a 2.5L???

As for right foot, unfortunately mine isnt engaged to my brain, so whilst torque may win races, my experience of a few cars i have been in also means it fries tyres...so somewhere/somehow there must be a compromise.

I think we all need to remember that primarily we are driving road cars here...

Roy,

You can tune torque in or out of the motor very easy, hell you can make a power curve to any shape that suits your traction issue fancy. The fact is the Rb25 may not ever get the kind of torque you would really like where you want it the way an RB30 can.

You tell a good tuner what power you want and when and they will most often do it for you, it's not that hard. Most people unfortunately just walk in and say 'power'. Think about this next time you get a dyno tune, the easy way is with a 2 stage boost setting or even better a dial that operates between two settings seamlessly.

I think Im going to look for an RB30 block this wkd, lol, have been offered the timing belt and other parts already! Guy thats offering is a mechanic at local Nissan dealer, hmmmm, food for thought!

I'm thinking of going the cheap way -

Get a RB30 block

Re-Ring and hone it with the standard pistons

New Big End Bearings

Drop my Head on

Drop the sub frame 15mm

Bolt the other bits back on..

Drop it back in the car

Grab a wideband o2 sensor...and go for a street tune (do it myself because we seem to have rip off tuners here in mackay)

If I had a bit of extra cash, I'd balance the crank and shot peen the rods.

How much boost can standard RB30 pistons take?

It's more to do with how well it's tuned and being careful, if you push them a bit far on the dyno or something, they will just shatter and that will be the end of it, while forgies or something will be more forgiving.

But yeah, plenty of people run them with success so go for it I reckon. :(

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The average previous owner for these cars were basically S-chassis owners in the US. Teenagers or teenager-adjacent. I often tell people that neglect is easier to fix than something that was actively "repaired" by previous owners.
    • Update 3: Hi all It's been a while. Quite a lot of things happened in the meantime, among other things the car is (almost) back together and ready to be started again. Things that I fixed or changed: Full turbo removal, fitting back the OEM turbo oil hardlines. Had to do quite a bit of research and parts shopping to get every last piece that I need and make it work with the GT2860 turbos, but it does work and is not hard to do. Proves that the previous owner(s) just did not want to. While I was there I set the preload for the wastegates to 0,9bar to hopefully make it easier for the tuner to hit the 370hp I need for the legal inspections that will follow later on. Boost can always go up if necessary. Fitted a AN10 line from the catch can to the intake hose to make the catchcan and hopefully the cam covers a slight vacuum to have less restrictive oil returns from the head and not have mud build up as harshly in the lines and catch can. Removed the entire front interior just shy of the dashboard itself to clean up some of the absolutely horrendous wiring, (hopefully) fix the bumpy tacho and put in LED bulbs while I was there. Also put in bulbs where there was none before, like the airbag one. I also used that chance to remove the LED rpm gauge on the steering column, which was also wired in absolute horror show fashion. Moved the 4in1 Prosport gauge from sitting in front of the OEM oil pressure gauge to the center console vents, I used a 3D printed vent piece to hold that gauge there. The HKB steering wheel boss was likely on incorrectly as I sometimes noticed the indicator reset being uneven for left vs. right. In the meantime also installed an airbag delete resistor, as one should. Installed Cube Speed premium short shifter. Feels pretty nice, hope it'll work great too when I actually get to drive. Also put on a fancy Dragon Ball shift knob, cause why not. My buddy was kind enough to weld the rust hole in the back, it was basically rusted through in the lowermost corner of the passenger side trunk area where the wheel arch, trunk panel and rear quarter all meet. Obviously there is still a lot of crustiness in various areas but as long as it's not rusted out I'll just treat and isolate the corrosion and pretend it's not there. Also had to put down a new ground wire for the rear subframe as the original one was BARELY there. Probably a bit controversial depending on who you ask about this... but I ended up just covering the crack in the side of the engine block, the one above the oil feed, with JB Weld. I used a generous amount and roughed up the whole area with a Dremel before, so I hope this will hold the coolant where it should be for the foreseeable future. Did a cam cover gasket job as the half moons were a bit leaky, and there too one could see the people who worked on this car before me were absolute tools. The same half moons were probably used like 3 times without even cleaning the old RTV off. Dremeled out the inside of the flange where the turbine housing mates onto the exhaust manifolds so the diameter matches, as the OEM exhaust manifolds are even narrower than the turbine housings as we all know. Even if this doesn't do much, I had them out anyways, so can't harm. Ideally one would port-match both the turbo and the manifold to the gasket size but I really didn't feel up to disassembling the turbine housings. Wrapped turbo outlet dumps in heat wrap band. Will do the frontpipe again as well as now the oil leak which promted me to tear apart half the engine in the first place is hopefully fixed. Fitted an ATI super damper to get rid of the worn old harmonic balancer. Surely one of the easiest and most worth to do mods. But torquing that ARP bolt to spec was a bitch without being able to lock the flywheel. Did some minor adjustments in the ECU tables to change some things I didn't like, like the launch control that was ALWAYS active. Treated rusty spots and surface corrosion on places I could get to and on many spots under the car, not pretty or ideal but good enough for now. Removed the N1 rear spats and the carbon surrounding for the tailpipe to put them back on with new adhesive as the old one was lifting in many spots, not pretty. Took out the passenger rear lamp housing... what do you know. Amateur work screwed me again here as they were glued in hard and removing it took a lot of force, so I broke one of the housing bolts off. And when removing the adhesive from the chassis the paint came right off too. Thankfully all the damaged area won't be visible later, but whoever did the very limited bodywork on this car needs to have their limbs chopped off piece by piece.   Quite a list if I do say so myself, but a lot of time was spent just discovering new shit that is wrong with the car and finding a solution or parts to fix it. My last problem that I now have the headache of dealing with is that the exhaust studs on the turbo outlets are M10x1.25 threaded, but the previous owner already put on regular M10 nuts so the threads are... weird. I only found this out the hard way. So now I will just try if I can in any way fit the front pipe regardless, if not I'll have to redo the studs with the turbos installed. Lesson learned for the future: Redo ALL studs you put your hands on, especially if they are old and the previous owners were inept maniacs. Thanks for reading if you did, will update when the engine runs again. Hope nothing breaks or leaks and I can do a test drive.
    • No those pads are DBA too  but they have colors too. I look at the and imo the green "street" are the best.
    • I’m not sure what happened I told them about sonic tunes free OTS tune and the next the I know .. I was booted..   To funny 
×
×
  • Create New...