Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Ummm i think you made an error?  You need to know about an RB25 in the title, then you ask about an RB30 which you have a manual about...

na mate, rb30Det

its got a rb25 head. There for rb25 head torque settings

and it is the turbo head, not the non turbo head...

-Tom

Edited by kossak
hey everyone,

im in the process of putting together a rb30det. But i dont have a r33 service manual, i only have the rb30 manual. Does anyone happen to know the torque settings to tighten my:

- head bolts to (what sequence aswell if there is one)

- rockercover screws

- camgear bolts -vct and exhaust gears...

-if you guys can help me out it would be much appreciated!

thanks

-Tom

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

Head bolt torque specs will be on the VRS set you bought.

Rocker cover screws....are you kidding?

Camgear bolts...F.T.

rocker cover screws i assumed didnt really matter, but still, i wannna try n do it rite if i can.

as for the head bolts

wtf is vrs kit? (im a n00b stuggleing to put together a engine) -im assuming it is the headgasket kit??? if it is i got a complete head gasket kit from nissan so no torque setting there. Also what about the intake and zorst manifolds then?

doesnt ne1 here have a 33 workshop manual or at least hav a link to an online 1 (that is free)

-Tom

  • 13 years later...
On 2/8/2006 at 9:02 PM, The Dan said:

Here

post-10554-1139403582.jpg

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

6 minutes ago, SSSHONKY_V_2 said:

Hi All 

Firstly , thanks to everyone for the help! 

Secondly - am I understanding the process Step 4 ( tightening the head bolts ) sub-step 3 says to loosen to ON-m, so am I understanding correctly that you do 5 passes in the suggested sequence

1st Pass - to 29N-m

2nd Pass to 98N-m 

3rd Pass - back everything totally off?

4th Pass - 25-34N-m 

5th Pass - 93-103N-m

Did I get that right or am I a complete dickhead??

@the dan Thanks for the image, is that from a FSM kicking around here somewhere?

Correct

it is done this way to “bed in” the threads to ensure a more accurate clamp load

 

 

 

OK so, things are progressing well. My torque wrench proved unreliable at low torque settings so was fortunate enough to have a good mate loan me a Sidchrome precision torque wrench , what a beauty of a tool to use! 

I did the initial 3 passes , so now they are all loose waiting for the final tightening. 

My question is: Who uses the angle measurement tool for the final tightening? I am not adverse to buying one considering they are pretty cheap, or just dummying something up with cardboard and something to hold it in place with. 

Is a torque wrench enough, or do you need the angle of the dangle?

 

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

If the spec on the bolts is torque, use torque. if the spec on the bolts is angle, use angle. Accept no substitutes.

Except in the wokshop manual screenshot above where it gives both :p.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Haha, i kow right? Could have bought so many cars for the same amount of money (or less) but driving Unicorn gives you at least +1mln to style 😅. Like wise man said "life's to short to drink cheap wine and drive boring cars" 😉
    • Newbie here, proud owner of an Autech 260RS. I'm on the hunt for wiring diagrams specific to the 260RS, particularly S1. I've ran my eyes through R33, R34 Diagrams, there are some similarities, however continue to find incorrect wire colours and pins on connectors in the 33,34 diagrams.   I was hoping someone could point me in the right direction? I'd be happy to pay for the originals in Japanese. I can translate them, at least they would be accurate.   Any help please would be greatly appreciated, never heard an RB26DETT before let alone driven one, and I've got a spaghetti monster of goodness to sort out.   Cheers Benny  
    • Hey all  im wondering if you can help me please I have put a rb20 box in my r34 gtt as my auto packed up and a friend had a spare box I know it’s not ideal but it will get me up and running for now. we have done the conversation and everything is working great but my Speedo we got a s13 speed sensor but my Speedo reads double now and I bought a speed converter but still not having any luck.  so I thought I’ll reach out and pick your brains  any help would be appreciated please as I wanna drive my car again 
    • Drain it. I got official Matic D but you can get whatever is listed as Matic D compatible.
    • Thanks guys,  Yeah I should at least have them dynoed, at least then I know what I've got as a starting point.  The springs on these are hard as rocks. I vaguely remember Russman saying he was going to sell the shocks to me with the rocks fitted, as he was keeping the softer springs for his new setup.  I didn't click at the time but of course that was to let me know the shock/spring wouldn't be matched.  I also remember pricing up new springs around 2014-15, but, house, money etc. it never happened. So that was another reason to have them rebuilt. I have rebuilt the forks on many motorcycles so I think I could handle the seals on these easily enough, but getting the valving right would be a rabbit hole I cbf exploring.  Duncan, interesting to hear RP was tuning these back then. I might give them a call.  In the mean time I have been busy fitting sway bars. The Whiteline rear sway bar I purchased 15 years ago finally got fitted, along with the Whiteline front bar that showed up last week. Just waiting on new links for the front sway bar to finish that off.  And my spare set of advan AVS VS5's should be back from the powder coaters in a Pearl White finish sometime this week, with a set of Hankook RS4's lined up for fitting.  And then I just have all the suspension bushes to do. A comprehensive kit is on the way... Lots to do before the Ararat hill climb. Cheers guys 🍻   
×
×
  • Create New...