Jump to content
SAU Community

Stagea Rattles, Squeaks,and Other Noises.

bluesky4me

By bluesky4me,
in Four Door Family & Wagoneers

 Share

Recommended Posts

pixel8r Mentor

pixel8r

Posted
Posted

The only really annoying noise I had was with the factory xanavi unit (the large screen where the cd/climate control etc is displayed). Not sure if it affects those without the xanavi unit but its a clicking/creaking noise like plastic flexing or touching against another plastic surface.

Seems to be located on the top left corner of the xanavi screen and I couldn't determine if it was the plastic surround that all stageas have (the shiny grey stuff) or the xanavi unit itself...

Pressing/thumping in a few different places seemed to fix it for a while...

  • 2 months later...
chook Mentor

chook

Posted
Posted

Found a source of most of my rattles today. Took out the hinged floor panel just behind the rear seat. Found that the hinges have about 20 screws, all were loose and were a big source of noise. Also this panels plastic base rests on the metal body in approx 6 places, used single sided 3mm foam stuck to the floor to insulate it from the plastic. Now it is quieter than its been since I bought it 3 years ago. Highly recommended.

yokotas13 Mentor

yokotas13

Posted
Posted

i get a clicking noise on bumps in the rear

not sure what it is

three subframes, two sets of coilovers, and its still there. but its too loud to be something just sitting in the back

Tangles Grand Master

Tangles

Posted
Posted

the only noise I get is a click from either the gearbox, since shift kit install, when starting to move in 1st. a little click.

real happy with my stag, clean and tidy, good condition. definately a bargain @ 18k almost 3 yrs ago now

  • 1 year later...
66yostagea Grand Master

66yostagea

Posted
Posted

This squeak is really annoying now. At first I thought it was A/C belt, but that has been tightened. All belts seem OK.

I think now it is the fan that is making the noise. It is not so much a squeak, but a very high pitched scream. It goes on for 15 secs on cold start only then fades right away but get a rattle from the fan for a while longer.

When cold starting and the noise starts, if I quickly select reverse (auto) the revs drop a bit and the noise stops. The rattle keeps on still.

Any clues before I take the belts off one by one?

mr_infamy Collaborator

mr_infamy

Posted
Posted
I get a clunk from the rear of the car. Probably CV or wheel bearing.

What kind of clunk? I get A deep-ish sounding one (deeper and less repetitive than CV joints) when I'm turning corners in town.

  • 2 weeks later...
Mr_RS4 Rising Star

Mr_RS4

Posted
Posted

The more work I do to the suspension the more noises I seem to create. Up to the full SK bilstien kit now, only problem with that is the generic rubber dust boots dont fit over the shock bodies in the rear so they bunch up and make a noise when going over speed bumps etc. Got sick of stuffing around with upper arm bushes front and rear and castor bushes (none of which gove me any where near the adjustment I needed to get descent amount of +ve castor and camber) so am in the process of replacing all my suspension arms with pillow ball adjustables. All the ones I'm using have dust boots protecting the ball joints but being there is no bushes used you still get some more noises. Not so much NVH as everyone says but the occasional click/clunk every now and again (just when the car comes to a stop) but its not regular enough to annoy me. The handling is worth it. So far have the castor/tension rods and front upper arms in. I have a few interior rattles, mind you I reckon 70% would go away if I fastened the safc and sitc properly inside the glove box and cleaned out my centre console :) Harder suspension also seeks out new rattles. Try to fix them as they pop up.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      The rain is the best time to push to the edge of the grip limit. Water lubrication reduces the consumption of rubber without reducing the fun. I take pleasure in driving around the outside of numpties in Audis, WRXs, BRZs, etc, because they get all worried in the wet. They warm up faster than the engine oil does.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      When they're dead cold, and in the wet, they're not very fun. RE003 are alright, they do harden very quickly and turn into literally $50 Pace tyres.
    • GTSBoy
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Yeah, I thought that Reedy's video was quite good because he compared old and new (as in, well used and quite new) AD09s, with what is generally considered to be the fast Yokohama in this category (ie, sporty road/track tyres) and a tyre that people might be able to use to extend the comparo out into the space of more expensive European tyres, being the Cup 2. No-one would ever agree that the Cup 2 is a poor tyre - many would suggest that it is close to the very top of the category. And, for them all to come out so close to each other, and for the cheaper tyre in the test to do so well against the others, in some cases being even faster, shows that (good, non-linglong) tyres are reaching a plateau in terms of how good they can get, and they're all sitting on that same plateau. Anyway, on the AD08R, AD09, RS4 that I've had on the car in recent years, I've never had a problem in the cold and wet. SA gets down to 0-10°C in winter. Not so often, but it was only 4°C when I got in the car this morning. Once the tyres are warm (ie, after about 2km), you can start to lay into them. I've never aquaplaned or suffered serious off-corner understeer or anything like that in the wet, that I would not have expected to happen with a more normal tyre. I had some RE003s, and they were shit in the dry, shit in the wet, shit everywhere. I would rate the RS4 and AD0x as being more trustworthy in the wet, once the rubber is warm. Bridgestone should be ashamed of the RE003.
    • Kinkstaah
      Unpeeling the Orange

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      This is why I gave the disclaimer about how I drive in the wet which I feel is pretty important. I have heard people think RS4's are horrible in the rain, but I have this feeling they must be driving (or attempting to drive) anywhere close to the grip limit. I legitimately drive at the speed limit/below speed the limit 100% of the time in the rain. More than happy to just commute along at 50kmh behind a train of cars in 5th gear etc. I do agree with you with regards to the temp and the 'quality' of the tyre Dose. Most UHP tyres aren't even up to temperature on the road anyway, even when going mad initial D canyon carving. It would be interesting to see a not-up-to-temp UHP tyre compared against a mere... normal...HP tyre at these temperatures. I don't think you're (or me in this case) is actually picking up grip with an RS4/AD09 on the road relative to something like a RE003 because the RS4/AD09 is not up to temp and the RE003 is closer to it's optimal operating window.
    • Dose Pipe Sutututu
      RB20DE NEO smallbox clutch.

      By Dose Pipe Sutututu · Posted

      Either the bearing has been installed backwards OR the gearbox input shaft bearing is loosey goosey.   When in doubt, just put in a Samsonas in.
×
×
  • Create New...