Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Has anyone here had any experience with writing their car off..

Say the agreed value was $13,000

How much damage to an R33 GTS do you think there would need to be for it to be considered a write off?

Would:

bonnet damage (heavy )

Possible engine damage ( deff radiatior )

Driver's side door pushed in considerably

Further driver's side of car pushed in around the place

Front bar completely screwed lights too

Be getting there?

Edited by ignuz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/
Share on other sites

hello driver side door pushed in considerably,Possible engine damage ( deff radiatior ),bonnet damage (heavy ).

It sound like definent underbody damage.

This could be a write off for sure dude.I know for sure that 1 smashed headlight baby damage on the front bar and a minor front pannel damage to fix is in the region of $3-5k painted.$3k if you can haggle.And thats also supplying all of the parts needed at the $3k price.

So from the sounds of it you have more serious damage than that.

GL with it all.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1940621
Share on other sites

:O oh.. i have comprehensive.. no biggy there..

Just hoping to get cash.. I'm going to look at the car tomorrow, fill out some damage sheet, then i'll start hearing quotes from my insurance company.

I'll also try and take some pics for everyone :P

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1940651
Share on other sites

anything over 50% value of the car.. it's a write off.. e.g. if parts + repairs cost > $7,000.. it'll be a right off..

chassis damage - almost guarenteed to write it off as said..

Yea i went out to see the car today.

the quote from one guy was 9.6k... so i can't see another quote going much more below 1k.. that's interesting.. what you mention about the 50%

Edited by ignuz
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1941204
Share on other sites

50%? are you kidding? in my experience it's a lot more than that. more like 75% or 80%. but it's a value judgement by the insurance company. whatever is most economical for them.

look at it like this, if they have to pay you out $14K (minus you excess of say $1K), and can sell the wreck for $3K that's $10k they have shelled out. on the other hand they can fix it for $9.6K minus your excess then they have only spent $8.6K... i know which sum they will prefer.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1941244
Share on other sites

hello driver side door pushed in considerably,Possible engine damage ( deff radiatior ),bonnet damage (heavy ).

It sound like definent underbody damage.

This could be a write off for sure dude.I know for sure that 1 smashed headlight baby damage on the front bar and a minor front pannel damage to fix is in the region of $3-5k painted.$3k if you can haggle.And thats also supplying all of the parts needed at the $3k price.

So from the sounds of it you have more serious damage than that.

GL with it all.

How is driver's door pushed in considerably not minor panel damage? r33 doors off this forum go for $200.

bonnet? wooptido! sI bonnet = $300.

gtst radiator? same as above - $150 - most likely no engine damage if engine was switched off asap.

I know your post was targeted towards me. A lot of the damage mentioned are only small things. Of course, without having seen the car, I can't comment for sure e.g. there might be chassis damage. However, based on the facts given, it is likely that the damage is not that big

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1941717
Share on other sites

It depends on wether many ather liners were damaged at that time

they write 1 off to fix the rest

i did my front end 11000 damage and the engine did not move

new front bar

2new headlights

new air con

only cosmetic still drive exerllent cause i was going to sell it

3000 2 4000 no a comador damage

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1941742
Share on other sites

My wife and I wrote off a 2002 Subaru Liberty last October. NRMA will only write off when the repair bill is more than $500 under the agreed value, ie. if they can save at least $500 then they'll repair it. That info is from the NRMA preferred repairer that painted my GTR and also wrote-off the Liberty.

He also said most other companies do use the 50% rule, as bizarre as it sounds. The quote for repair also depends a lot on how badly the panel shop wants the work! :rolleyes: If they are busy you are more likely to have it deemed a total loss.

Hope it works out for you dude. Six months later we are still trying to get money from the NRMA and are thousands out of pocket - the guy that caused it? - 3 points and $220 fine. Hurrah for justice.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1942034
Share on other sites

I know your post was targeted towards me.

What the!!Jumping to conclusions.I wasd simply stating that the car was most likely a write off,considering the experience i have had with cars in the past.

And it has allways been to my knowledge that cars are written off if the dmage to the chassie/underbody is unrepaireable.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1942424
Share on other sites

I wrote my gts off recently ....first hand experience right here!

Hit the guard barrier, was insured for $14700.

Most damage was front driverside but bonnet was crushed abit, included steering damage as the driverside wheel was up against the firewall, so there was suspension damage too, etc. I personally didnt think it was that bad but apparently it was because it was quoted at exess of 15gs to fix by a JustCar preferred repairer. If you have the chance and want to keep the car I would reccomend shopping around for your own repairer to do it as the price difference between these autoshops vary massively.

Must just be us crappy gts drivers writing all these non turbos off :D

Pics of my write off... im still sad about it.

image025.jpg

image023.jpg

image021.jpg

image020.jpg

Ill be back in 1.5 years with my turbo ...

but for now...i drive eco friendly Fiesta!! :D ..

fiesta4.jpg

twice the milage of the skyline with half the engine size :( (will help me save for turbo quicker)

Very fun car to thrash around ...just lacks the balls ...

anybody know how to fit turbos to these things?..hahaha

it actually looks more like this...

fiesta.jpg

Weird little thing...bonnet release is down on the passenger side feet...blinker on the left hand side...lights are turned on with a nobby thing on the dash...center console looks like a smiley face ...boot release is on the dash ... these crazy germans ..i tell u ...

Anyway, sorry to hear mate ..i know exactly how you feel ...

at least youre ok ...

From what you said I would probably say it was a write off ...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1943748
Share on other sites

woh... Yea my damage is similar.. Just Cars is getting their second quote from their repairer so I guess i'll find out within a week. I'd be so tempted to get something nice again with the cash.. If it was a write off, but I'd rather have a nice amount of cash to dump into a turbo when I'm off my P's...

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1945362
Share on other sites

Mutha hufka! ...i want my stickers back! .....any ideas on how much itll go for? Bastards probably made $4gs out of it

:(

fink

you should buy it back mate its up for auction

http://www.pickles.com.au/servlet/Auction/...em_id=202012941

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105322-write-off/#findComment-1949185
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi, is the HKS  Tower Bar still available ? negotiable ? 🤔
    • From there, it is really just test and assemble. Plug the adapter cables from the unit into the back of the screen, then the other side to the car harness. Don't forget all the other plugs too! Run the cables behind the unit and screw it back into place (4 screws) and you should now have 3 cables to run from the top screen to the android unit. I ran them along the DS of the other AV units in the gap between their backets and the console, and used some corrugated tubing on the sharp edges of the bracket so the wires were safe. Plug the centre console and lower screen in temporarily and turn the car to ACC, the AV should fire up as normal. Hold the back button for 3 sec and Android should appear on the top screen. You need to set the input to Aux for audio (more on that later). I put the unit under the AC duct in the centre console, with the wifi antenna on top of the AC duct near the shifter, the bluetooth antenna on the AC duct under the centre console The GPS unit on top of the DS to AC duct; they all seem to work OK there are are out of the way. Neat cable routing is a pain. For the drive recorder I mounted it near the rear view mirror and run the cable in the headlining, across the a pillar and then down the inside of the a pillar seal to the DS lower dash. From there it goes across and to one USB input for the unit. The second USB input is attached to the ECUtec OBD dongle and the 3rd goes to the USB bulkhead connected I added in the centre console. This is how the centre console looks "tidied" up Note I didn't install the provided speaker, didn't use the 2.5mm IPod in line or the piggyback loom for the Ipod or change any DIP switches; they seem to only be required if you need to use the Ipod input rather than the AUX input. That's it, install done, I'll follow up with a separate post on how the unit works, but in summary it retains all factory functions and inputs (so I still use my phone to the car for calls), reverse still works like factory etc.
    • Place the new daughterboard in the case and mount it using the 3 small black rivets provided, and reconnect the 3 factory ribbon cables to the new board Then, use the 3 piggyback cables from the daughterboard into the factory board on top (there are stand offs in the case to keep them apart. and remember to reconnect the antenna and rear cover fan wires. 1 screw to hold the motherboard in place. Before closing the case, make a hole in the sticker covering a hole in the case and run the cable for the android unit into the plug there. The video forgot this step, so did I, so will you probably. Then redo the 4 screws on back, 2 each top and bottom, 3 each side and put the 2 brackets back on.....all ready to go and not that tricky really.      
    • Onto the android unit. You need to remove the top screen because there is a daughterboard to put inside the case. Each side vent pops out from clips; start at the bottom and carefully remove upwards (use a trim remover tool to avoid breaking anything). Then the lower screen and controls come out, 4 screws, a couple of clips (including 3 flimsy ones at the top) and 3 plugs on the rear. Then the upper screen, 4 screws and a bunch of plugs and she is out. From there, remove the mounting brackets (2 screws each), 4 screws on the rear, 2 screws top and bottom and 3 screws holding in the small plates on each side. When you remove the back cover (tight fit), watch out for the power cable for the fan, I removed it so I could put the back aside. The mainboard is held in by 1 screw in the middle, 1 aerial at the top and 3 ribbon cables. If you've ever done any laptop stuff the ribbon cables are OK to work with, just pop up the retainer and they slide out. If you are not familiar just grab a 12 year old from an iphone factory, they will know how it works The case should now look like this:
    • Switching the console was tricky. First there were 6 screws to remove, and also the little adapter loom and its screws had to come out. Also don't forget to remove the 2 screws holding the central locking receiver. Then there are 4 clips on either side....these were very tight in this case and needed careful persuading with a long flat screw driver....some force required but not enough to break them...this was probably the fiddliest part of the whole job. In my case I needed both the wiring loom and the central locking receiver module to swap across to the new one. That was it for the console, so "assembly is the reverse of disassembly"
×
×
  • Create New...