Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Heya all,

I'm at the point in skyline ownership where I'm stuck between two schools of thought, and thought I would open it up for consideration.

I WAS planning to do the usual GTS-T mods: turbo, intake and exhaust, intercooler, fuel pump, boost controller, GTR front bar, hood and seats, and so on. But then I crunched the numbers, and it seems I would end up dropping around the $20,000 mark including the car itself.

Nowadays, that seems to be able to get you a GT-R without much hassle. And they're a hell-of-a-lot quicker than a stock GTS-T, but probably slower than a GTS-T with mods to bring it to a GTR's price-tag.

Then there's the maintenance cost. An RB20 is much easier to look after than an RB26. Let's face it, we've got 1 less turbo and 5 less throttle bodies. Also no 4WD to pack up and cost stacks of money to repair. Then again, a GTR purist can turn around and say "yeah, but at least once it's working, I've got it and you haven't".

Obviously, even with a GTR, you're going to want to modify it (probably spending around the $5000 - $10000 mark), and that would ALSO have to be money added to the GTS-T. At which point, you would have one insane GTS-T. But then again, it's still just a GTS-T... you see my dilemma.

As you can see, I've done some thinking on the topic, but thought that with all the GTR and GTS-T owners on this forum, you could all help shed light on this issue.

Thanks fellas,

Adrian.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105343-to-modify-gts-t-or-save-up-for-gt-r/
Share on other sites

depends, which one do you want? if you can afford either get the one you want. and maintence? i believe all cars are they same if you treat them right... i bet you all havent spent 6 grand on car maintence in the last year (not including mods or engine rebuilds) well... i have and my cars non turbo sr20.... its just coz it was in shit condition when i bought it, it broke down every second week for a year.... and i still need to spend another 2 grand just to get it up to road worthy standard.... so instead im going to use that 2 grand and buy a newer car.... r33 s2 maybe

I don't see a dilemma at all. If you can afford a GT-R, buy a GT-R. Its a better sports car, and if you're going to modify a vehicle you always start with the best "base".

If you're worried about high maintenance and running costs, and the whole "sports car" thing isn't really your deal, buy a Corolla (or a Celica if you must have a car that looks like a sports car but without the "sports" compromises).

Edited by scathing
I don't see a dilemma at all. If you can afford a GT-R, buy a GT-R. Its a better sports car, and if you're going to modify a vehicle you always start with the best

"base".

If you're worried about high maintenance and running costs, and the whole "sports car" thing isn't really your deal, buy a Corolla (or a Celica if you must have a car that looks like a sports car but without the "sports" compromises).

amen to that comment...

dont think a 18k gtr is gonna be decent either, more like around 30k for a decent condition and running one.

ive been going through the same thorts lately too.. but ive decided to just sell my mosdly stock gtst, and get the gtr.. and maybe save up more money for the gtr, or spend it on mods on the way wile im waiting to sell it.... mite as well put the saved money to good use wile im waiting i figure

well, i went against the grain of everyone here has said, and modified my GTS-t... while it still wouldn't be QUITE as fast as a GTR in a straight line, (there would only be a bees dick in it)... i would eat a (stock) GTR in the handling department ;)

what you have to remember is, you can have a modified GTS-t for the same price as you can have a stock GTR... however, that GTR isn't going to have the new suspension, or the new brakes, or the new fuel pump or new turbo etc etc, and you're going to end up having to spend money on the GTR anyway if you want it to be anything above "Modified GTS-t" standard...

just some food for thought from the other side of the ballpark :P

Well yes and no, I've seen a few nice examples around for $20-24k, and that's not thrashed ones or 89 models mind you. If you're patient, a good one WILL come up at a nice price.

There's so many pro's and cons. Nothing wrong with GTSt's, I love them too, but the GTR is a whole new world...

Edited by d0p3y

I was in the same dilemma mate, do I mod my GTSt or save for a GTR, after much thought I wanted to put an Rb26DETT in my car but after chasing up prices etc on doing this conversion its just not worth it.

Yes I could have done pretty much the whole conversion at home as I have lots of friends in automotive trades and enginering trades welding etc). One company wanted around $8500 for an R33 halfcut. At the end of the day its still a GTSt with an RB26, yes no doubt it would fly but If i want the motor so much I think its a better prop to save and buy an R33 GTR, as I also wanted to paint my car midnight purple, hell, By the time Ive done all those mods including R34 GTR wheels it would have cost me a fortune.

So Ive decided to leave my car how it is, it is lightly modified, suspension wheels etc etc. And save for an R33 GTR in Midnight purple with Rb26Dett! As a bonus I get 4WD, pumped guards, brembos etc etc. And no matter what I do to it, its still always going to be a GTR.

So after my long winded post, keep it relatively stock and save for a GTR in my opinon. It might cost more but at the end of the day which would you rather have in the garage a modified GTSt or a genuine GTR??

do you want to keep your girlfriend? or live at home for a few more years???

I'm actually married, and am renting my own place, looking to buy a house in a year. So don't smart-ass me, boy.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
    • The hydrocarbon component of E10 can be shittier, and is in fact, shittier, than that used in normal 91RON fuel. That's because the octane boost provided by the ethanol allows them to use stuff that doesn't make the grade without the help. The 1c/L saving typically available on E10 is going to be massively overridden by the increased consumption caused by the ethanol and the crappier HC (ie the HCs will be less dense, meaning that there will definitely be less energy per unit volume than for more dense HCs). That is one of the reasons why P98 will return better fuel consumption than 91 does, even with the ignition timing completely fixed. There is more energy per unit volume because the HCs used in 98 are higher density than in the lawnmower fuel.
    • No, I'd suggest that that is the checklist for pneumatic/hydraulic adjustable systems. I would say, based on my years of reading and complying with Australian Standards and similar regulations, that the narrow interpretation of Clause 3.2 b would be the preferred/expected/intended one, by the author, and those using the standard. Wishful thinking need not apply.
×
×
  • Create New...