Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Coolent is the liquid that goes in there, use Tectaloy 90 or 100 (alother 100 is alot more expensive) i flushed my whole system out last night and put new coolent in? Does anyone know how much a S1 R33 GTS-T should take abotu7lt's????

A weeks' worth of detox kit bought from Woolies...

Oh!

Just remove the lower radiator pipe, and watch it flow! Don't do it when it is hot. Once it's all out, remove the top hose, and then stick a garden-hose in the top and give it a good blast until the water coming out of the bottom is clear. =-]

Theres alos a drian plug at the bottom as well, and flush some water back down the top pipe, wich goes around the block, make sure when you fill back up you use concentrate and dilute it, rathern then pre mixed, that way you can add a little more concentrate to compensate the water sitting around the block that u flushed through (you wont' be able to get it all out, im sure there is drainage points for them but not really worth it)

Hope that helps, Michael

Na if you do it right you shoudlnt' get any air into it, i mean if you run it with the cap of the raditor you will have a few bubbbles jsut watch it and toip directly into the radiator, there are bleed points for it, but i couldnt' bee bother it worked fine for me.

Michael

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi...so a "development" here aswell The swap is "done" and car went "test drive" BUT it seems the clutch(maybe gearbox?) is a little bit sad? I bought this clutch kit https://justjap.com/products/xtreme-heavy-duty-organic-clutch-flywheel-kit-nissan-skyline-r31-r32-r33-push-type "Problem" is that the first gear is hard to put into and it seems that the clutch is not disengaged. It was not the problem with the old clutch...(or like sometime the first gear would not get as easy specialy when the fluid was cold) So? Can it be like...bad "install" or is the clutch wrong ((it should not have been) i done research to get the right one) Or is this "normal" with new clutch and needs to be break in? 
    • @Duncan I can try  and thanks i did not thought about VIN and part numbers for 33/34. @GTSBoy yeah it looks like iam gonna do that  
    • Forgot to include this but this is the mid section of my steering rack that looks like it has a thread/can be turned with that notch mentioned in the post:
    • Hey everyone, Wanted to pick some brains about this issue I'm having with rebuilding my 33 rack (PN is 49001-19U05). All of the tutorials/videos I've seen online are either R34 or S Chassis racks which seem to be pretty straightforward to disassemble but this process doesnt carry over to my rack. Few of the key differences that I've noted The pinion shaft on the other racks bolt on with 3 torx bolts: Whereas my rack bolts on with 2 allen head bolts: These changes are pretty inconsequential but the main difference is how you pull the actual rack out of the housing. The other skyline/s chassis racks can be taken out by tapping the rack out of the body with a socket and it just slides right out. I'm unable to do that with my rack because there's a hard stop at the end that doesn't let the seal/shaft be tapped out. Can also see a difference in the other end of the rack where mine has a notch that looks like you're able to use a big wrench to unthread 2 halves of the rack whereas the other racks are just kinda set in with a punch. My rack: Other racks: TLDR; Wanted to know if anyone has rebuilt this specific model of steering rack for the R33 and if there were any steps to getting it done easier or if I should just give this to a professional to get done. Sorry if this post is a bit messy, first one I've done.
    • I would just put EBC back on the "I would not use their stuff" pile and move on.
×
×
  • Create New...