Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey team.

I am currently installing my stereo in my r34 gtt and have run into a hurdle.

I cant find a place to run the power cable through the firewall.

How have others run the power cable from the engine bay through the firewall?

I could see no grommet or hole to use.

Does a hole need to be drilled?

Any help would be much appreciated.

Regards

T

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105491-help-running-power-cable-in-r34-gtt/
Share on other sites

In an R33, there is a grommet used by the accelerator cable, which I used with no problems. Dunno about 34's, but have a look to see what else goes through the firewall, and trace on the footwell to see where it will come out.

strongly suggest you don't even consider drilling through any part of the car at all!

the way I did it on my 34 was to actually take off the front driver side quarter panel of the car, there's about 8-12 screws that need to be taken off before the panel comes off. once you do that, you can see the massive rubber grommet where you can poke the cable through into the car under the coin holder/fuses, you can't miss it.

I found that to be the easiest way, the rubber grommet is hard to see or poke anything through it. hope that helps.

You don't need to take the guard off. You pull the rear inner plastic wheel arch panel. You can get it off easier if you turn the wheels to the right full lock then pull out the plastic clips and get the inner panel out.

My side skirts also has two screws at the front that has to be taken out to release it.

Once out you will be able to see it all.

I haven't explained myself very well so here is a couple of pics.

post-7957-1140258755.jpg

post-7957-1140258782.jpg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Then, shorten them by 1cm, drop the car back down and have a visual look (or even better, use a spirit level across the wheel to see if you have less camber than before. You still want something like 1.5 for road use. Alternatively, if you have adjustable rear ride height (I assume you do if you have extreme camber wear), raise the suspension back to standard height until you can get it all aligned properly. Finally, keep in mind that wear on the inside of the tyre can be for incorrect toe, not just camber
    • I know I have to get a wheel alignment but until then I just need to bring the rear tyres in a bit they're wearing to the belt on the inside and brand new on the outside edge. I did shorten the arms a bit but got it wrong now after a few klms the Slip and VDC lights come on. I'd just like to get it to a point where I can drive for another week or two before getting an alignment. I've had to pay a lot of other stuff recently so doing it myself is my only option 
    • You just need a wheel alignment after, so just set them to the same as current and drive to the shop. As there are 2 upper links it may also be worth adding adjustable upper front links at the same time; these reduce bump steer when you move the camber (note that setting those correctly takes a lot longer as you have to recheck the camber at each length of the toe arm, through a range of movement, so you could just ignore that unless the handling becomes unpredictable)
    • I got adjustable after market rear camber arm to replace the stock one's because got sick of having to buy new rear tyres every few months. Can anyone please let me know what the best adjustment length would be. I don't have the old ones anymore to get measurements. I'm guessing the stock measurement minus a few mm would do it. Please any help on replacing them would be fantastic I've watched the YouTube clips but no-one talks about how long to set the camber arm to.
    • Heh. I copied the link to the video direct, instead of the thread I mentioned. But the video is the main value content anyway. Otherwise, yes, in Europe, surely you'd be expected to buy local. Being whichever flavour of Michelin, Continental or Pirelli suits your usage model.
×
×
  • Create New...