Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Just last week I got my first skyline a 1990 R32 GTS-4, and I have noticed that after driving around for about an hour the gearbox gets very hot.

I can feel the heat coming up the steel gearstick, the plastic console surround and underneath the gearstick boot.

This being the first GTS-4 that I have driven, I can't say if this is really a problem or not. All the mechanics I talked to suggested a bearing failure but the gearbox isn't noisy so it can't be that...

I had the gearbox oil changed to mobil synthetic, but it hasn't helped at all (exept for lightening my wallet). I have taken off the gearstick boot, so while driving around I can feel the heat coming off the floor area.

So my question is directed at all GTS-4 owners. Do you experience the same problem or is it normal for the 4wd gearbox to get so hot?

I don't think the transfer case has anything to to with it, cos I've been driving really gently around town and on the highway.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/10562-hot-gearbox-on-r32-gts-4/
Share on other sites

dude, I don't mean warm. I mean Very Hot.

So you think the plastic console around the gearstick is supposed to get hot?

I had the transfer case oil changed aswell, but I don't think it makes any difference

So... is there anyone else out there who could comment on just how hot their box gets?

Even just to say that the heat given off isn't noticable or that the console surround doesn't even get warm after driving around for over an hour.

I've driven a few commonwhores around and I never start to feel the gear stick or anything else get remotely warm( including after a bit of thrashing):D

I feel a bit of heat coming up through mine as well but it sounds like yours is a lot worse than mine.

Dunno what the problem is though ... I started a thread about it a while ago so do a search and see what you come up with.

  • 6 months later...

I have a 93 GTS4. Mine can get quite hot. I've noticed a steamy / smokey kinda thing can happen when I drive around with-out the boot on. I assume it's normal coz my car gets an absolute cane-ing and has done so for three years - 'touch wood'.

To update on my problem: The month after changing the gearbox oil the heat issue has started to go away and now it only gets warm after a long hard drive. this is with Mobil 1 oil.

However, the synchro on 4th gear has absolutley stuffed itself, well i already knew that a few days after buying the car, but now it's really annoying when driving hard. especially after the GOR trip a couple weeks ago.

Anything over 4000rpm in third changing into 4th it crunches like hell. Its the same for the downshift from 5th. But for normal driving, changing gears isn't a problem.

It's a pity that I didn't drive the car hard when I was buying it, cos otherwise I probably wouldn't have.

Anyway, DVNT32 you should come down on saturday for a meet with us in central melb about 4pm.

Check out this thread if ya want http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/sh...40&pagenumber=2

Then we can check out each others rides :D

Cheers

Phil

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Power is fed to the ECU when the ignition switch is switched to IGN, at terminal 58. That same wire also connects to the ECCS relay to provide both the coil power and the contact side. When the ECU sees power at 58 it switches 16 to earth, which pulls the ECCS relay on, which feeds main power into the ECU and also to a bunch of other things. None of this is directly involved in the fuel pump - it just has to happen first. The ECU will pull terminal 18 to earth when it wants the fuel pump to run. This allows the fuel pump relay to pull in, which switches power on into the rest of the fuel pump control equipment. The fuel pump control regulator is controlled from terminal 104 on the ECU and is switched high or low depending on whether the ECU thinks the pump needs to run high or low. (I don't know which way around that is, and it really doesn't matter right now). The fuel pump control reg is really just a resistor that controls how the power through the pump goes to earth. Either straight to earth, or via the resistor. This part doesn't matter much to us today. The power to the fuel pump relay comes from one of the switched wires from the IGN switch and fusebox that is not shown off to the left of this page. That power runs the fuel pump relay coil and a number of other engine peripherals. Those peripherals don't really matter. All that matters is that there should be power available at the relay when the key is in the right position. At least - I think it's switched. If it's not switched, then power will be there all the time. Either way, if you don't have power there when you need it (ie, key on) then it won't work. The input-output switching side of the relay gains its power from a line similar (but not the same as) the one that feeds the ECU. SO I presume that is switched. Again, if there is not power there when you need it, then you have to look upstream. And... the upshot of all that? There is no "ground" at the fuel pump relay. Where you say: and say that pin 1 Black/Pink is ground, that is not true. The ECU trigger is AF73, is black/pink, and is the "ground". When the ECU says it is. The Blue/White wire is the "constant" 12V to power the relay's coil. And when I say "constant", I mean it may well only be on when the key is on. As I said above. So, when the ECU says not to be running the pump (which is any time after about 3s of switching on, with no crank signal or engine speed yet), then you should see 12V at both 1 and 2. Because the 12V will be all the way up to the ECU terminal 18, waiting to be switched to ground. When the ECU switches the fuel pump on, then AF73 should go to ~0V, having been switched to ground and the voltage drop now occurring over the relay coil. 3 & 5 are easy. 5 is the other "constant" 12V, that may or may not be constant but will very much want to be there when the key is on. Same as above. 3 goes to the pump. There should never be 12V visible at 3 unless the relay is pulled in. As to where the immobiliser might have been spliced into all this.... It will either have to be on wire AF70 or AF71, whichever is most accessible near the alarm. Given that all those wires run from the engine bay fusebox or the ECU, via the driver's area to the rear of the car, it could really be either. AF70 will be the same colour from the appropriate fuse all the way to the pump. If it has been cut and is dangling, you should be able to see that  in that area somewhere. Same with AF71.   You really should be able to force the pump to run. Just jump 12V onto AF72 and it should go. That will prove that the pump itself is willing to go along with you when you sort out the upstream. You really should be able to force the fuel pump relay on. Just short AF73 to earth when the key is on. If the pump runs, then the relay is fine, and all the power up to both inputs on the relay is fine. If it doesn't run (and given that you checked the relay itself actually works) then one or both of AF70 and AF71 are not bringing power to the game.
    • @PranK can you elaborate further on the Colorlock Dye? The website has a lot of options. I'm sure you've done all the research. I have old genuine leather seats that I have bought various refurbing creams and such, but never a dye. Any info on how long it lasts? Does it wash out? Is it a hassle? What product do I actually need? Am I just buying this kit and following the steps the page advises or something else? https://www.colourlockaustralia.com.au/colourlock-leather-repair-kit-dye.html
    • These going to fit over the big brakes? I'd be reeeeeeeeaaaall hesitant to believe so.
    • The leather work properly stunned me. Again, I am thankful that the leather was in such good condition. I'm not sure what the indent is at the top of the passenger seat. Like somebody was sitting in it with a golf ball between their shoulders. The wheels are more grey than silver now and missing a lot of gloss.  Here's one with nice silver wheels.
    • It's amazing how well the works on the leather seats. Looks mint. Looking forward to see how you go with the wheels. They do suit the car! Gutter rash is easy to fix, but I'm curious about getting the colour done.
×
×
  • Create New...