Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey guys, im thinking ahead now and am starting to gather parts for my rb25det turbo upgrade.

I'm after around 250-270rwkw and trying to keep the response good for street.

Im going the 2835 pro s, dnt knw which A/R to get yet, but will do more study first, im sure this turbo will suffice for what i'm after.

Just wondering what sort of parts i should buy at the same time to go with the turbo and make it a bit more reliable

To my understanding these turbos can be low mounted so can use most of the stock setup, bar a different dump that comes with the kit. i think this is one reason im really liking this turbo, no need for a highmount manifold, meaning no need for too many extra mods, and looks stealth too:)

Heres my Current setup

r33 25t series 1

apexi pod, h/shield plus cai

Hybrid Fmic

3" exhaust to split dump pipe

Turbotech boost tap ~ 9psi (ppl still use these after bigger turbo, or go EBC)?

18" tyres for what its worth!

Now what i'll be doing before going bigger turbo:

- Compression Test/Leakdown...make sure i have a healthy setup currently:)

- Auto to manual 25t (ogura 4.8kgs lightened flywheel, still deciding on clutch...help???)

- Power FC + Tune....hoping for close to ~200rwkw

- Maybe Bigger fuel pump? - dnt knw whether to go Bosch 040 or 044

I'm not doing the conversion from auto to manual, so i was wondering if theres anything that could be looked at/upgraded while the engine is out???

What else would benefit while doing bigger turbo? cams maybe? injectors, someone told me to lower compression, thicket gasket but im not ready to lose response if i dnt need to!

Edited by nsta
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/105873-gathering-turbo-upgrade-parts/
Share on other sites

With that turbo you would probably need injectors and a fuel pump to be safe, and also a Z32 AFM.

I think you'd be right at the limit of the standard AFM and/or injectors at that power level, and probably won't see the best out of your new turbo.

Why not just wait until the turbo is in; put the PowerFC in then and only get it tuned once and save yourself some money??

I doubt you'd need to lower compression at all.

Cams will net you maybe ~15kw extra, is it worth nearly $1000 to you?

Clutch - i'd look at a 9-puck or similar, but that's just my opinion. Still nice and driveable on the street.

(The dollars start adding up quickly if you want to do it properly!)

Edited by Beeble

I have a solid 250 rwkw at 14psi with the GCG highflow and Poncams (260 degree) and 480 cc injectors.

Didn't require the AFM, but if I chase any more power (not likely) I will need the upgrade.

The cams will give you a heaps bigger mid range and hold onto power over a wider span. I'm making more than 240rwkw for over 1500 rpm.

cool thanks, i was thinking about the whole waiting around for the turbo upgrade then going and tuning it all at the same time, though i dnt know how long itll be till i see all the parts, and being able to gather everything.

About the cams, ive only heard good things about it, costly though and i heard that poncoms 256 were more ideal for the r33's?

Im really after a nice clutch for the street, as that will be things that need upgrading 1st as the conversion will need to be done before eveything.Im thinking a single plate would suffice for the power output id like to acheive but others have me saying to go twin plate!, so confused!

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You can use your VIN to look up the factory part number somewhere like amayama, and then look to order new if necessary. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/nissan Depending on price you might want to rebuild instead. @GTSBoy I had an interesting insight into US market parts when the Titan rear calipers were sticking. New calipers were dirt cheap, about 20% more than a rebuild kit....they are just considered throw away maintenance items
    • Funny, but really not funny. Thank god (most) f the world has moved on since then
    • Lots of votes for driving onto a plank first; that is the quickest way I've found, 25mm is enough for my case but that will vary by car It also depends where you are going for. On the 32 I can get to the rear diff with my floor jack if I do that end first, and get it up on stands. Then I lift the front from either front tow hook as high as needed, also onto stands. Sometimes I need a small lift on the other tow hook to get it level enough If I do the front first I can't get to the rear diff because of the angle of the car Other options are getting to the front mount of the rear subframe from in front of the wheel (if only lifting one side, or just do both which is a bit of a pain compared to one lift from the diff), or also the gearbox cross member mount on the driver's side if you are  just trying to lift the driver's side. I This is the jack I use; it says 75mm clearance but of course that is only on the lower section so if you have to reach too far in like the diff you still get stuck. https://www.snapon-bluepoint.com.sg/category/Floor-Jacks/product/Floor-Jack,-2-Ton-Low-Profile
    • On the bright side, the weather will turn much nicer for working outside shortly....sounds like you might need to start on a neighbour's garden next
    • Ok so i will NEED to have this sensor anyway even with Nistune (or standalone ECU) https://justjap.com/products/genuine-nissan-boost-pressure-sensor-evap-control-system-fits-nissan-r34-skyline-c34-nm35-stagea-pnt30-x-trail-rb25det-vq25det-sr20vet?currency=AUD&srsltid=AfmBOoqfxX48bW9bEwH62orcNhtBfp7ekAL0C9Ca89ySFGUiBzXfXeze Is this the correct one? And this is only thing i need? No other "things" connected to the sensor or something? I do have the wiring.
×
×
  • Create New...