Jump to content
SAU Community

Rb26 Inside

Amaru

By Amaru,
in Engines & Forced Induction

 Share

Recommended Posts

Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
Posted

Well I believe good deeds should go rewarded, and also once people have their engines built they never usually have them apart again.

So I thought I would post some pics of the internals of my engine. The engine was rebuilt in mid 2003 and has since covered a touch over 30,000kms running between 300 and 350rwkw. As like most GTR drivers I look after my car, but to put it honestly, I also flog the guts out of it alot of the time too (any GTR owner who says they dont is a liar!) so I was curious as to what condition the internals would be in once stripped down being driven hard alot with that much power on a relatively stockish engine.

The rebuild included a slight overbore (20 thou) due to some mild scoring on the bore, Arias forged pistons, standard conrods shot peened with ARP2000 rod bolts, new main and conrod bearings, bit of head porting and polishing. Just your basic bare bones rebuild I guess with a bit of added strength. I have attatched some pictures of the cylinder bore, main bearings, conrod bearings and piston. The worst part of the engine was the piston which is covered in carbon due to running rich, but besides that the engine still looks almost like brand new. Hone marks still visible on the bore with no scoring, main bearings still look nice and fresh, same with rod bearings. The only thing that appears to have copped a flogging was the oil pump (no crank collar), which is showing some signs of wear. I will post up a pic so people know what the problem actually is/looks like.

Anyway, nothing really overly exciting in this thread, just thought some people may be curious as to what such an engine would look like on the inside after a decent amount of km's. A big thanks goes to Greg and Warren at Pro Engines (www.proengines.com.au) who originally built the engine, which has stood the test of time quite well indicating it was an excellent rebuild (I was expecting a lot more carnage to have gone on internally). If you need a rebuild, see these guys! :)

post-2672-1140215271.jpg

post-2672-1140215302.jpg

post-2672-1140215325.jpg

post-2672-1140215344.jpg

post-2672-1140215363.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Are you trying to say GTR's should always run better oil pumps ? I.e JUN, ETC?

No, im saying any pre 1994 R32 GTR owner should fit a crank collar or R33 GTR crank. That oil pump didnt have much life left in it before it would have let go... even a wee bit too much throttle at cold oil temp could have been enough to see it go bang. The crank collar extends the drive on the crankshaft into the oil pump so its not a problem anymore. The 1994 R32's and all R33 and R34's came with a longer drive for the oil pump from the factory.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/#findComment-1961192
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
  • Author
Posted
Nice thread, thanks for taking the time.

May I ask what the run in procedure was and what oil you have used during the 30K?

Also why did you pull it apart?

Run in was 500km on mineral oil never using more than 25% throttle, then it drank nothing but Motul 300V Chrono. Fronm 500km to 1000kms used 50% throttle and put some more load on the engine, did another oil change at 1000, did another 1000kms going easy on it, changed the oil and flgoged the guts out of it :D

Its apart to get the crank collar fixed... the recent thread on here of the conrod exiting out the side of the block worried me enough to spend the cash to get it done :D

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/#findComment-1961353
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

haha, how much carbon can you get onto the piston.

tune it a little leaner, or else the carbon will get hot, glow and cause pre-ignition from the hot spots.

and then bye bye motor.

when you re-asemble are you going to rehone and use new rings or does it all just go back together again as is?

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/#findComment-1961394
Share on other sites
Amaru Veteran

Amaru

Posted
  • Author
Posted

AFR's were stupidly rich when running on boost, hence all the carbon. It needed a rebuild 30000k's ago because a valve guide had broken and scored the cylinder bore slightly (hence the reason for the overbore too). No cracking, no problem with oil cooling lines, all a-ok.

The rebuild was fairly cheap, cant remember the exact price, but it wasnt alot. The reason its apart again is to fit a crank collar and new oil pump to it, then its all being slapped back together again with a fresh set of rings (and minus the carbon on the pistons). I noticed you have a 94 model GTR, in which case every one I have seen came fitted with an R33 crank from factory, so the crank collar shouldnt be a problem for you.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/#findComment-1962303
Share on other sites
RB30-POWER Mentor

RB30-POWER

Posted
Posted

Thats alot of carbon for low 11's, just under high load.

How is the cruise mixtures around 14.7:1 or rich as well?

Im no expert by any means, but to get carbon like that, it would take more then just running a bit rich under boost. It would have to be running rich every where.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106291-rb26-inside/#findComment-1962554
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • oHBoy.
      Starter motor replacment teeth count.

      By oHBoy. · Posted

      I had 3 counts over the last couple of weeks once where i got stranded at a jdm paint yard booking in some work. 2nd time was moving the car into the drive way for the inspection and the 3rd was during the inspection for the co2 leak test. Fix: 1st, car off for a hour and half disconnected battery 10mins 4th try car started 2nd, 5th try started 3rd, countless time starting disconnected battery dude was under the hood listening to the starting sequence fuel pump ect.   
    • GTSBoy
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This. As for your options - I suggest remote mounting the Nissan sensor further away on a length of steel tube. That tube to have a loop in it to handle vibration, etc etc. You will need to either put a tee and a bleed fitting near the sensor, or crack the fitting at the sensor to bleed it full of oil when you first set it up, otherwise you won't get the line filled. But this is a small problem. Just needs enough access to get it done.
    • suko
      J50 clock date suddenly reset to January 1

      By suko · Posted

      The time is always correct. Only the date is wrong. It currently thinks it is January 19. Tomorrow it will say it is January 20. The date and time are ( should be ! ) retrieved from the GPS navigation system.
    • MBS206
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Buy yourself a set of easy outs. See if they will get a good bite in and unthread it.   Very very lucky the whole sender didn't let go while on the track and cost you a motor!
    • Kinkstaah
      Mistakes were made, my R34 Story

      By Kinkstaah · Posted

      Well GTSBoy, prepare yourself further. I did a track day with 1/2 a day prep on Friday, inpromptu. The good news is that I got home, and didn't drive the car into a wall. Everything seemed mostly okay. The car was even a little faster than it was last time. I also got to get some good datalog data too. I also noticed a tiny bit of knock which was (luckily?) recorded. All I know is the knock sensors got recalibrated.... and are notorious for false knock. So I don't know if they are too sensitive, not sensitive enough... or some other third option. But I reduced timing anyway. It wasn't every pull through the session either. Think along the lines of -1 degree of timing for say, three instances while at the top of 4th in a 20 minute all-hot-lap session. Unfortunately at the end of session 2... I noticed a little oil. I borrowed some jack stands and a jack and took a look under there, but as is often the case, messing around with it kinda half cleaned it up, it was not conclusive where it was coming from. I decided to give it another go and see how it was. The amount of oil was maybe one/two small drops. I did another 20 minute session and car went well, and I was just starting to get into it and not be terrified of driving on track. I pulled over and checked in the pits and saw this: This is where I called it, packed up and went home as I live ~20 min from the track with a VERY VERY CLOSE EYE on Oil Pressure on the way home. The volume wasn't much but you never know. I checked it today when I had my own space/tools/time to find out what was going on, wanted to clean it up, run the car and see if any of the fittings from around the oil filter were causing it. I have like.. 5 fittings there, so I suspected one was (hopefully?) the culprit. It became immediately apparent as soon as I looked around more closely. 795d266d-a034-4b8c-89c9-d83860f5d00a.mp4       This is the R34 GTT oil sender connected via an adapter to an oil cooler block I have installed which runs AN lines to my cooler (and back). There's also an oil temp sensor on top.  Just after that video, I attempted to unthread the sensor to see if it's loose/worn and it disintegrated in my hand. So yes. I am glad I noticed that oil because it would appear that complete and utter catastrophic engine failure was about 1 second of engine runtime away. I did try to drill the fitting out, and only succeeded in drilling the middle hole much larger and now there's a... smooth hole in there with what looks like a damn sleeve still incredibly tight in there. Not really sure how to proceed from here. My options: 1) Find someone who can remove the stuck fitting, and use a steel adapter so it won't fatigue? (Female BSPT for the R34 sender to 1/8NPT male - HARD to find). IF it isn't possible to remove - Buy a new block ($320) and have someone tap a new 1/8NPT in the top of it ($????) and hope the steel adapter works better. 2) Buy a new block and give up on the OEM pressure sender for the dash entirely, and use the supplied 1/8 NPT for the oil temp sender. Having the oil pressure read 0 in the dash with the warning lamp will give me a lot of anxiety driving around. I do have the actual GM sensor/sender working, but it needs OBD2 as a gauge. If I'm datalogging I don't actually have a readout of what the gauge is currently displaying. 3) Other? Find a new location for the OEM sender? Though I don't know of anywhere that will work. I also don't know if a steel adapter is actually functionally smart here. It's clearly leveraged itself through vibration of the motor and snapped in half. This doesn't seem like a setup a smart person would replicate given the weight of the OEM sender. Still pretty happy being lucky for once and seeing this at the absolute last moment before bye bye motor in a big way, even if an adapter is apparently 6 weeks+ delivery and I have no way to free the current stuck/potentially destroyed threads in the current oil block.
×
×
  • Create New...