Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Found out recently that while driving my R33 around, the oil gauge seem to be running slightly below the second bar. Normally it used to be staying around the middle bar ( bar showing 4 ). When I first start the car, it will be around the the highest bar which indicate 8, but after driving a while it will stay around the middle bar however now it is falling below the second bar. This happened after the first car service. I am due to second car service in 2 weeks time.

I have checked and I am sure that there are enough engine oil.

What could be wrong? Something wrong with the pressure?

Would appreciate any help I can get from anyone.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/
Share on other sites

The senders can be a little iffy.

Mine will play up from time to time. The other day for some reason it was constantly reading almost zero. Pulled over went in to the shops came back out and since its been sitting normal.

Being 8 on cold, just above 2 on idle, and 6.5 at high rpm.

My sender is the origional, being 204,000km's and ~14years old. They are a mechanical device so they are not the most reliable. :unsure:

If its always reading low then there is an issue.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1962518
Share on other sites

i find this in my r32 sometimes on cold nights when im putting along on low rpm it gets to like under the last bar and sometimes after that when just idleing its only just above 0 hmm my sender thingy might be buggered aswell... if its not what can this mean?? shes running good so i guess it must be buggered

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1963528
Share on other sites

Firstly you have to determine if is the sender or not, replacing it, you would find out.

Change the oil.

If its still low on oil pressure then check with an external oil pressure guage. If that displays low oil pressure, then you have some problems.

1. Bad/worn oil pump

2. bigend & or bottomend bearings are worn

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1963574
Share on other sites

Firstly you have to determine if is the sender or not, replacing it, you would find out.

Just wondering how hard is it to replace the sender because in my R32 the guage is basically useless. It is very laggy, ie. you can take off from the lights and get to the speed limit, be sitting on 2,500rpm and then after a while you slowly see the needle move up, even then it doesn't move up to the right amount.

My mate has an R31 and his stock oil pressure guage is very responsive, reacts to throttle instantly. Am I right to assume it's meant to operate like that? (And that my sender could be stuffed)

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1965333
Share on other sites

I'm wondering if they foul up at all because mine used to read quite low and slightly erratic but since the engine was rebuilt, same sensor reused, it reacts quicker and seems to be higher which of course I put down to it being a newer engine therefore better oil pressure.

dunno.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1965757
Share on other sites

today mine was half of the last bar u divide the whole bar like / /4 / /8 i was below the bottom / very alarming during idle.. i figured it was tied in with my AFM plug acting up. on the highway it read 4 and boosting it read above 4. im changing my oil tomorrow and changing my leaking oil filter (ryco oil seal is ripped).

using castrol R 10w/60 and valvoline filter this time.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1966290
Share on other sites

is there a way to update/fix the senders to make them new/more accurate again? ie: keep the oem factory dials and gauges but make the senders quick and nice. i dont wanna have a stack of guages added to the car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1966317
Share on other sites

if you buy say a VDO oil pressure gauge, what will it get it's info from?

do they come with a new sensor or does it use the factory one?

My R32 oil pressure gauge seems to have a mind of it's own too.

starts fine then decides to work or go and lie down on the 0 bed for a while..

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1967746
Share on other sites

I have heard all of you guys saying engine rebuild. How much does that cost and does it mean changing the whole engine or ?

Sorry new to modifying car

Having a 93 GTST but the mileage is high 113km so think of someway to do something to the engine

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1969144
Share on other sites

engine rebuild is mostly new wearable parts (cams, pistons, rods, gaskets, seals) bore and balance the important goodies. best to use stronger items and make her like new.. for mine when i do mine i want around 500HP at the wheels eventually with T70 and Dejetro FC. so will pull down engine and replace everything haha.. and refit a stronger better oil pump!. prices r all different. 3k up to 16k depends what u want wat brands.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106389-oil-pressure/#findComment-1975613
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hope you aren't too sore after that one, might take a day or 2 to notice yet and I guess it is a loooooong drive home. On the bright side, tube frame front end is a thing at superlap, right?
    • https://www.facebook.com/share/p/18rmVb1SKB/ 
    • The chart of front pressure to rear pressure (with one being on the x axis and the other being on the y axis) is not a straight line on a typical proportioning valve. At lower pressures there is a straight line with one slope, and at higher pressures that changes to a lower slope. That creates a bend in the line at that pressure, called the knee point. If you do not change the proportionng as the pressure gets higher, you will suffer excessive pressure (at one end of the car or the other, depending on which way you look at the proportioning action) and then get lockups at that end. The HFM BM57, from my memory of previous discussions, is based on the BM57 from a different car (to a Skyline), with a different requirement for the location of the knee point and the distribution of pressure front to rear, and so is not a good choice for an upgrade on a Skyline. Here's a couple of links to some old posts, one from here, one from elsewhere. A lot of it pertains to adjustable prop valves, but the idea is the same. There are plenty of discussions on here about this issue from al the many years of people wanting a cheap/accessible option. https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/ https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/forum/grm/learn-me-brake-proportioning-valves/236880/page1/  
    • Yeah dunno why johhny posted that here with no context, just post on FB/insta bro where he put it up?  Laine had an off at T4 during Thurs prac, he's ok, car is less than perfect, they are done for the weekend, he can fill in the rest. Bando also binned it like 100m up the road.   
    • I feel there must have been a FB/insta post and the weekend did not start well at all I hope everyone is all okay
×
×
  • Create New...