Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Ok lads help me please

i have an auto r33 gtst and want a resonable brake upgrade as it will be the next line of moding

has any 1 done 1 and wat did you do or wat are you thinking of doing

thanks in advace

i did a search

james

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/106584-r33-brake-upgrade-options/
Share on other sites

I have slotted 4000 series DBA rotors, Hawke pads, braided brake lines, brake master cylinder stopper and Motul dot 5.1 fluid on my 33 GTST.

I have so far yet to run into any fade during the 5 Lap Sprint sessions at Queensland Raceway. Had the Same combination on my old 33 GTR also with the same results.

4 x 4000 series DBA rotors approx $800

Pads Front and rear $400ish

Braided lines were $80 per corner

Cusco stopper $120ish

I did this a while ago so not sure on exact prices, but that will be close.

There is no labour included there as I did it all myself.

I have to give the Hawke pads a big thumbs up though, they are a bit dusty, and squeal if not used hard for a while but by far they best pad I have used so far. The made the biggest difference.

I would do the pads 1st, change fluid as these made the biggest difference, then probably the braided lines, the others were more cosmetic I think, couldn't really pick a difference with them.

I need an upgrade to!

On my old vl i just had bendix ult pads and braided lines, the car stopped on a dime. Then i put on cross X/slotted rotors which just improved it more.

When can't you use DOT 5 fluid? When you have standard lines? is this correct?

GTR_Legend the max you would want to run with standard lines would be DOT 4. DOT 5 is more acidic which eats the standard rubber lines but on the other hand the fluid remains cooler longer and gives you better pedal responce.

Miller the hoon whats your budget? Brand new Porsche 6 piston brakes with 350mm or 365mm rotors for $4000. your are looking at spending a minimum of $1500 on better pads, rotors and braided lines. other oprion is try and get some R33 or R34 GTR brakes.

I know a few people have stated that with a decent pad and maybe some DBA slotted rotors you should be laughing, depends on how much you want to spend, technically that should set you back about a grand.

I think newtown has it right with just the pads and braided lines first and see if that gets you stopping faster. Could also try endless pads off nengun.com good price, and great pads.

GTR_Legend the max you would want to run with standard lines would be DOT 4. DOT 5 is more acidic which eats the standard rubber lines but on the other hand the fluid remains cooler longer and gives you better pedal responce.

thats what i thought, just wanted to make sure

Thanks for the info lads

sick r31 i think the budget will be 1500 to 2000

there are ather things i am looking at but stopping would be the smartest 1

Fronts aswell at this stage

for gtr ancors should i go to wreakers for this or go new

do braded lines do much as well?

james

If you are going to upgrade the rotors, in the group buy section they are selling caliper mounts so you can use bigger rotors IE GTR rotors. I'd be seriously thinking about that since you are replacing them anyway!!

Then the usual good pads and fluid.

do braded lines do much as well?

braided lines help, as your stock rubber lines get old the brake fluid is acidic and starts eating the rubber away and they become soft, perishable or may start to bludge in areas. get someone to put there foot on the brakes and you hold one of the lines, it should expand a little, by the line expanding you are having to put more pressure on the brake pedal to get the same brake responce if the lines were new. you shouldn't pay more than $60-$70 for braided lines.

if you are planing on going bigger rotors and calipers in the future just get a brake master cylinder stopper for now. if you are going to go GTR brakes only worry about the front as the back rotors are only 3mm bigger and 4mm thicker and when people see brembo on a caliper the price doubles pretty much.

For $1500 you could buy some GTR Brembos, plus another $1200 for 324mm DBA 5000 rotors and say $400 for EBCs.

That's similar to the set up I had on my GTR. Then spend $2800 on CSC front kit with 343mm two piece rotors with stainless lines. Very cost effective upgrade.

TBS automotive Queensland, they buy all their stuff through this company so just find the closest distributer to you, i attached the link below. this wasn't mates rates either. also roy how much were you quoted to get braided lines?

http://www.braidedhoses.com.au/wherebuy.html

TBS automotive Queensland, they buy all their stuff through this company so just find the closest distributer to you, i attached the link below. this wasn't mates rates either. also roy how much were you quoted to get braided lines?

http://www.braidedhoses.com.au/wherebuy.html

I already have braided lines. And those lines are technically not legal on a road car...they may be safe, but as they havent beebn tested to a recognised standard i wouldnt be putting them on my car

you mean the lines i have?

Not sure exactly what kine syou have...but lokign closely at the website...they seem to be legal...BUT, some of the wordign sounds like my local member come election time :P

brake hose manufacturing ‘specialists’ Australia wide that have pledged to manufacture your Stainless Steel Braided Brake Hoses to comply with the requirements of the Australian Design Rule (ADR).

It states Australian Design Rules ADR7/00, ADR42/04 & Department of Transport and Regional Services

(DoTaRS) approval CRN30886 as specifation.

So it all seems ok, but i dont see why they state all of the above, and dont simply state that they have been tested and legal? My understanding is you can pledge to do it, design something to the ADRs, but if a component hasnt been bench tested then technically its not strictly legal???

Im not an expert, but looked into ages ago when i had mine done, and the devil was in the detail where there is a bench test which flexes the hose so many times for so many hours to makes sure the conneciton where the rubber sleeve is doenst fail....liek i said im probably beign paranoid or misunderstand the legislation.

..and its kinda off topic so sorry :P

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Get an inspection camera up there. 
    • Yeah, but look at the margin in viscosity between the 40 and the 60 at 125°C. It is not very large. It is the difference between 7 and 11 cP. Compare that to the viscosity at only 90°C. The viscosity axis is logarithmic. The numbers at 90 are ~15 and ~35. That is about half for the 40 wt oil and <half for the 60. You give up viscosity EXPONENTIALLY as temperature rises. Literally. That is why I declare thicker oil to be a bandaid, and a brittle one at that. Keep the oil temperature under about 110°C and you should be better off.   Having said all of that, which remains true as a general principle, if you have indeed lost enough oil from the sump that the pump was seeing slightly aerated oil, then all bets are off. That would of course cause oil pressure to collapse. And 35 psi is a collapse given what you were doing to the engine. Especially if the oil was that hot and viscosity had also collapsed. And I would put money on rod or main bearings being the source of the any noise that registered as knock. Hydraulic lifters should be able to cope with the hotter oil and lower pressure enough to prvent too much high frequency noise, although I am willing to admit it could be the source.
    • Thanks for the reply mate. Well I really hope its a hose then not engine out job
    • But.... the reason I want to run a 60 weight is so at 125C it has the same viscosity as a 40 weight at 100C. That's the whole reason. If the viscosity changes that much to drop oil pressure from 73psi to 36psi then that's another reason I should be running an oil that mimics the 40 weight at 100C. I have datalogs from the dyno with the oil pressure hitting 73psi at full throttle/high RPM. At the dyno the oil temp was around 100-105C. The pump has a 70psi internal relief spring. It will never go/can't go above 70psi. The GM recommendation of 6psi per 1000rpm is well under that... The oil sensor for logging in LS's is at the valley plate at the back of  the block/rear of where the heads are near the firewall. It's also where the knock sensors are which are notable for 'false knock'. I'm hoping I just didn't have enough oil up top causing some chatter instead of rods being sad (big hopium/copium I know) LS's definitely heat up the oil more than RB's do, the stock vettes for example will hit 300F(150C) in a lap or two and happily track for years and years. This is the same oil cooler that I had when I was in RB land, being the Setrab 25 row oil cooler HEL thing. I did think about putting a fan in there to pull air out more, though I don't know if that will actually help in huge load situations with lots of speed. I think when I had the auto cooler. The leak is where the block runs to the oil cooler lines, the OEM/Dash oil pressure sender is connected at that junction and is what broke. I'm actually quite curious to see how much oil in total capacity is actually left in the engine. As it currently stands I'm waiting on that bush to adapt the sender to it. The sump is still full (?) of oil and the lines and accusump have been drained, but the filter and block are off. I suspect there's maybe less than 1/2 the total capacity there should be in there. I have noticed in the past that topping up oil has improved oil pressure, as reported by the dash sensor. This is all extremely sketchy hence wanting to get it sorted out lol.
×
×
  • Create New...